The best logging trick I've learned here. Thank you, Chris!

[stig]

This is simply the best I've had out of participating here, apart from the friends I've made and visited with.

Chris ( Tucker 234567890) showed it and it was a complete " Why the heck didn't I ever think of that" revelation.

When bucking a log that has top bind ( Or in this case; that one thinks has top bind!! But before you laugh, look at the thing!)) cut a wedge out of the top, tap it in with the bar and bore in beneath it and cut through.

I use it all the time now, and show it to other loggers. I get that same " WTF didn't I think of that" reaction from everyone.

Just thought I'd share it here.

 

[cory]

Looks good, I will try it.

 

[Jed]

Sorry Stig... How's this different from reaming, or taping in a plastic wedge?

 

[Joezilla11]

I'll second that! I read this trick a little while back and use it all the time now

 

[Burnham]

That is a great trick, for sure.

 

[cory]

Sorry Stig... How's this different from reaming, or taping in a plastic wedge?

In treework, you may not always have a wedge with you on your person as a logger does. And maybe it is faster or easier than reaming.

 

[gf beranek]

Is that more to prevent getting the bar stuck in the case of an end bind combination? Top and bottom binds are the same force in a stem, but directed in opposite directions. In their true form they are remedied easily in one or two cuts. Why cut out the wedge? Maybe I just need it explained to me differently.

Sorry, old school understanding here.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I am happy you posted the pics of it. I could not wrap my head around it when Chris mentioned it.

 

[Dave Shepard]

I haven't had the chance to try it yet. I usually just ream like Jerry shows in "100 Trees". Works great and makes people think you are going to get your saw stuck.

 

[MasterBlaster]

It looks good to me!

 

[Burnham]

I think if you have serious top bind the likelihood would be for the natural wedge to spit out and fail to hold the kerf open, where a slimmer plastic wedge would not. But the natural wedge has a lot more friction inherent, so maybe not. I think it's greatest benefit for production bucking is the quickness it can be put into play, over the more convention plastic wedge tapped in with a faller's ax.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Agreed, but it's still a cool tool to have in your arsenal!

 

[Burnham]

Yessir.

That Stig has found it to be quite beneficial carries a ton of weight with me...he doesn't do anything involved with saw work that doesn't pay off in efficiency, effectiveness, and/or improved safe operations, by my estimation.

That Chris kid over in hardwood heaven knows a thing or two .

 

[flushcut]

I'll give it a try.

 

[MasterBlaster]

TreeHousers RAWK!

 

[Burnham]

That too calls for a "Yessir!".

 

[flushcut]

Yep!

 

[sotc]

The only advantage I see over a plastic wedge (assuming I've always got one in my pocket) is that you don't have to beat the wedge out when you're done. Just walk away. Sometimes they're a booger to get out. Well worth putting in the mental tool box

 

[Jed]

O.k... but.... and here is where a lowly arb is super out of his element... but... doesn't that decrease the value of a sawlog a bit?

 

[Mick!]

Know what you mean Jed but it looks to me like the piece has come out of the crown/firewood side of the tree.
No loss to the trunk.

 

[chris_girard]

O.k... but.... and here is where a lowly arb is super out of his element... but... doesn't that decrease the value of a sawlog a bit?

Depends on how they scale your logs. Here on the East Coast, they measure by the average diameter of the log. That is one reason why the open face notch is much more popular over here then the Humboldt Cut.

 

[cory]

Also, there is usually 6" of trim or fudge factor which would mean the wedge isn't coming out of 'good' log.

 

[stig]

Yup.
Make the wedge on the piece that doesn't count.

Jerry, it saves reaming. I do that too, but this is way faster IMO.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

It works. I usually have gone for a slighter taper on the wood wedge. Saves getting it back out. Faster than reaming.

Here, logs are supposed to be square on both ends, within 1". A half-inch wide wedge is all you need. Add half an inch to the kerf, and you should be well under the 1" criteria. I'm not a regular logger, so my experience about their finickiness is fully lacking.

I am knocking down mill logs today, and did some yesterday.

Residentially, I don't carry wedges around much. This trick works for stumps, too. You don't risk cutting the tip off a plastic wedge if you're not on target.

 

[treebilly]

Did this today after seeing it last night. I went with a thinner wedge also. Worked like a champ. New tool to keep in my head. I've learned more from this site than any other form of education.