Stahl's logging supplies

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I didn't really know that was a thing. I'm pretty good on chain, but I'll keep my eyes open there, and maybe pick some up.
 
I don't think $10 a chain is unreasonable for the time and expertise involved. Their time is valuable too, but the cost doesn't make sense to me from a user perspective. It seems to me some things you just have to do yourself.
 
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I don't think $10 a chain is unreasonable for the time and expertise involved. Their time is valuable too, but the cost doesn't make sense to me from a user perspective. It seems to me some things you just have to do yourself.
The thing to remember is that people who sharpen their own chains will stop when the saw is no longer sharp and touch it up. Takes a few minutes at most. People who do not sharpen their own chains will keep cutting until the chain just won't cut any more. And those chains will take a long time to fix.
 
I’ve pretty well only used Stihl chain on hand saws. In general I doubt I’d get excited to spin my own loops without substantial savings that likely can’t exist when a loop is only $18.


I should perhaps get a chain grinder to go through my buckets of used chain… but I’d rather find a decent deal on new Stihl chain, ideally. My local dealer offered an underwhelming 8% discount on a couple thousand dollar order.
My local Stihl shop robo-sharpens and dresses takers for under/ about $10/ loop.

Maybe a better deal for a bucket of chain.

I never have them sharpen for me.

I told a customer about it. They asked if I wanted their new, cheapo grinder.

I use it for rocked chains, with a round file- finish.

Those HF grinders are cheap and effective for what I need them for.

I've used a Silvey. Very nice.

Thankfully, the lack of rookie employees means little sharpening, in general.
 
Do you grind them at home, or send them off to your local grinder? I understand it from a production standpoint, but something doesn't seem right when a tree company has a pile of 100 chains that were only used once or twice because they buy new ones instead if sharpening them.

I have a bit of a funny story: a buddy gave me his 028 to fix because it wouldn't start. I don't know if he even tried it, but I found the carb was clean, the gas in the tank looked bad. I put in fresh gas, it runs. I hand file the chain, and it flies through some dead hard maple. I give it back and he's cutting one of those dark bark white oaks with his brother, they are pretty hard. His 028 is zipping through it while his brother's 390xp is lagging behind. His brother couldn't believe it. Even I was impressed when I tested it.
I'll hand sharpen on the saw on the job, or replace the chain with a new chain. At some point I'll probably figure out getting a grinder, then the pile of chain will continue being an asset.
 
I'll hand sharpen on the saw on the job, or replace the chain with a new chain. At some point I'll probably figure out getting a grinder, then the pile of chain will continue being an asset.
I like @huskihl ’s grinder. Not expensive and has an auto clamp. Can’t remember which it is. My stihl USG is nice but they are kinda expensive. Mine is old and I got it for less than a new cheap grinder but it still works well.
 
Looks like these sell for about $8k...


I might be more inclined to do that before I paid someone $10 to sharpen a chain. I'd have to research it. If it's more fiddly than set it up, let it go, change the wheel every so often, then that affects the bottom line, but there's some interesting possibilities for recovering the investment. Evey 100 chains sharpened takes $1k off the purchase price.
 
Looks like these sell for about $8k...


I might be more inclined to do that before I paid someone $10 to sharpen a chain. I'd have to research it. If it's more fiddly than set it up, let it go, change the wheel every so often, then that affects the bottom line, but there's some interesting possibilities for recovering the investment. Evey 100 chains sharpened takes $1k off the purchase price.
That's without overhead/ opportunity cost.
 
Sure, but it isn't really about money anyway. That's the justification, and to ease the financial pain. The real point is keeping chains sharp without having to do anything, not having a disaster of partly used chains on the wall, and to not pay someone half the cost of a chain to make it sharp. That last one's the big one for me. I'd be pissed off every time I took a chain in to be sharpened, and I'd pay *a lot* of money to not do that. Would I pay $8k? I don't know, but it isn't off the table.

As it is, I don't mind filing for the most part. It gets annoying on the long bars, and rocking a chain twice in a fueling is almost enough to send me back to a bowsaw, but it's alright, and success/failure is all on me, which I like. The chain's as good as I make it. I get all the glory for a good chain, and all the ridicule for one that sucks.
 
I'm assuming a CBN wheel is the way to go, perhaps a Baltic? I remember using pink stone wheels, I don't like the dust or the constant dressing/adjusting/fidgeting.

Would I not want the Oregon 620-120 for the auto hydraulic clamp, one less thing to mess with/make the process easier?
 
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I have a Baltic and a wood turner’s wonders

The WTW is less $ I think and coarser so faster metal removal with less heat fixing rocked chains, but maybe a less than ideal edge? I could never tell.

I got a std Baltic which is a mixed grit and it’s good…I had them make me a fine wheel and it leaves a smoother finish but heats the tooth if one is not careful. Good for just touching up or a fine finish which for just work is ear elephant.

Then recently I bought a square grinder and all that became almost moot
 
Wouldn't a cbn have a tendency to clog and glaze since chain is usually dirty? I could see if you were running carbide chain since that's so hard, but for normal chain i would think a more traditional abrasive would be better, the wheel being used leads to dust, which constantly exposes new abrasive so it cuts better. @davidwyby would know more since he runs a machine shop, but i would think a cbn would be wasting money on a chain grinder because it would likely clog up. I would think a slightly tougher wheel or different bond would do less dust and dressing for a much lower price, and he would know far more, likely even the numbers of what to get to match your desired performance since that's part of machining. Personally I run an angle grinder pretty much everyday, and I'll even go so far as dressing them regularly so they cut like a laser, as they will clog and glaze from paint and slag, or the abrasive dulls before the bond can be worn down. When i was a helper on the pipeline i even carried a star wheel dresser in the ditch just for that purpose, overkill perhaps, but sharp cutting tools is the name of the game no matter the job.
 
ear elephant
I stumbled hard over this. I read that last sentence about five times :^D That's a curious phrase. A search unhelpfully gave me a bunch of stuff about the plant. I guess it means overkill, or gilding the lily. Where did you get it?
 
I stumbled hard over this. I read that last sentence about five times :^D That's a curious phrase. A search unhelpfully gave me a bunch of stuff about the plant. I guess it means overkill, or gilding the lily. Where did you get it?
I pulled it out of my nether regions…sorry…fine grind is irrelevant for work chain.

@Tree09 i despise trad grinding wheels, mainly due to the grit everywhere, unless i want to shape the wheel for a special grind. CBN is awesome. Never had a lick of trouble and hardly bother to clean them or my chains.
 
Lol fair enough! Is that what they make the metal grinding and cutting wheels out of you can get for angle grinders?
 
Lol fair enough! Is that what they make the metal grinding and cutting wheels out of you can get for angle grinders?
Looks like CBN wheels are like diamond wheels: metal wheel coated with crystals of the desired grit. I think regular angle grinder wheels are silicon carbide, which is harmful to breath, but I thought it's normally green, while many cutoff wheels are black, and bench grinder wheels are blue/grey.

I haven't done it to an angle grinder wheel, but to make Dremel aluminum oxide cutoff wheels cut faster I cut angled saw teeth into them with another wheel.

I have seen a chain sharpener mounted in a custom made dust collector hood. It wouldn't work well with the grinder going in reverse, but they often don't make them reversible anymore.
 
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X Cut will, rather begrudgingly, cut through steel pile and rebar. Luckily only moderately damaged another chain cutting the other two.
 

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