Spot the mistakes and cast your judgement.

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Check you far side from the rear side unless you can know/ check it from the near side. Sometimes a guy would need a spring board to see the far side.

Sometimes backing your bar away from the hinge let's you see the two lines of your front and back of your hinge from the near side, through the kerf.

Better check twice cut once, unless you're certain.



Seems like trying to pound wedges with a thick hinge is trying to lift Possibly less weight, and bend more hinge.

I usually set my wedges preventing any setback, cut my up the hinge right, them drive my wedges.
 
SeanKroll said:
Seems like trying to pound wedges with a thick hinge is trying to lift Possibly less weight, and bend more hinge.

I usually set my wedges preventing any setback, cut my up the hinge right, them drive my wedges.
Click to expand...

I think you soon get the feeling if youre just pounding sand, Sean. On a back leaner at least, I'd attempt to set the wedges deep, sooner than later.
 
I'm more with Reg on setting wedges and how much...but for sure it is not going to be the same with every tree. Back leaners wedge over much easier if you don't allow them to set back any at all, and that takes keeping wedges tight all through the back cut.

Somewhere here in a thread we talked about how much backlean can be overcome. We covered some pretty extreme methods. I'll see if I can find it.
 
As with anything, multiple right and good ways.
I think in any of them, nobody advocates losing any ground on the lean.


In my estimation, 'reading' the wedging effect along with judging the cutting of the hinge thickness/ shape/ defects are a dynamic process. Feeling the rebound of the ax, listening to the pitch of the strike, seeing the movement of the stem, watching the wiggle/ oscillation of the trunk and top, noticing deadwood breakage from wedge/ ax impact, etc are the details of it.
 
Burnham said:
I'm more with Reg on setting wedges and how much...but for sure it is not going to be the same with every tree. Back leaners wedge over much easier if you don't allow them to set back any at all, and that takes keeping wedges tight all through the back cut.

Somewhere here in a thread we talked about how much backlean can be overcome. We covered some pretty extreme methods. I'll see if I can find it.
Click to expand...

This is one point where hardwoods differ a bit from conifers.
Hardwoods as in "HARD" woods, that is.
The wood doesn't compress much over and under the wedge, so you don't need to pound a lot on your wedges, before cutting to the hinge.
They will hold the tree anyway, unless we are talking extreme backlean.
In the woods, I don't deal with extreme back lean. I simply decide that it must be God's will that the tree goes with the lean, otherwise why did he/she/it create it with so much lean.
So I either fall it with the lean or leave it be.
Hence my preferred method is to start the backcut, set as many wedges as I deem necessary and finish the cut.
Then pound wedges. As Sean wrote, no use in fighting against a thick hinge when you are trying to wedge a tree over, that energy is better spent elsewhere.

Again, I realize I'm thinking like the production faller that I am, always cutting to scale.
EVERY advantage gained shows in the paycheck.
They may only be little things, but over a season they add up.

I can see checking your bar tip if you are running a 60" bar, but on a 24", no way.

Burnham, have you ever felled a tree with leaves;)
 
I seem to recall a fair number of red alder, some bigleaf maple, some bitter cherry, some cottonwood. None of which are HARD hardwoods, just as you say. A few Oregon ash, one small Garry oak...harder hardwood there :).

But you are right, most of my experience is western conifers, an inch wide and a mile deep.
 
I hadn't teased you for a while, couldn't pass this one up.
 
Yeah, I'd been wondering if you have been unwell. Well, more unwell than you actually have been. How's that going these days?
;)
 
Pretty good, all considered.
Tired is all.
But I've managed to do my part of the falling this winter, so that is fine.
 
Hope your stamina gets back to normal...but seems if you're able to keep up the felling schedule, you must be doing right well.
 
oh fun, I don't think Ive ever sat down and nit-picked a video. I think I know how to though from my days (may they rest in peace) on Facebook, observing all the armchair-expert-twat-traffic in the comment sections there so I'll give it a whirl.
Nice saw sharpness! (I'm already failing.)
Trying to pry out the mostly cut-up notch by excessive Husky wiggling, 50 lashes.
Failure to groom and pave 2 perfect bicycle paths away from the tree for escape, 100 lashes.
Setting chain brake 900 times, a Caribbean cruise with 40 virgins.
Not hollering "back-cut," and timber etc. 100 lashes.
Insufficient PPE, death.
;)
 
Lately I feel like a production feller. My crew and I will drop a tree just about anywhere if we think it will mostly fit. Ha!maybe we are just getting to lazy to climb. We dropped 15 walnuts today in some really tight spots. 20170425_152939.jpg
My partner checks his bar a lot. I rarely do. We are both equally good just different styles
 
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