Spencer Tapes & Similar

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@stikine, when using quote function, you can type your response response after the second quote bracket. That has it show up in normal font, with just the quoted post in gray.

We use a Spencer tapes. I had a DBH and length one for measuring trees fir trunk injection, and Sven has a just length tape.

Marking off and bucking logs for mill/ trucking specs makes life much easier
The local log hauler can take 8' minimum 21'max, so we measure a lot.

Mine held up well until I drove over it somehow, and the spacer screws on sven's eventually backed out. With a little loctite I expect hey w would be fine for many years

Keep us posted on the husky one, definitely curious
 
I hate the Husky ones.
Prefer Spencer.
For logging the 50 foot is preferred here, it rolls up better than the longer one, when dirty. ( Dirty meaning resin covered)
 
I can't figure out how to change the tape.
My partner loves them.

I can't abide the Stihl ones either.
They wear out too fast.
 
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  • #31
Got the Husky tape today. Just a few thoughts while holding it...

The eyelets attaching the nylon leader to the tape are a little sloppy. It's probably alright, but not as strong as it could be.

It measures ~¼" off, but it isn't a precision device, so I'd consider that within spec

I think I like the clasp on the Spencer better. This has a simple hook, and my experiences with these say they're a pita. Might not be a problem since you only clip it once. I have other clasps, including the Spencer type, so I can swap out if desired.

Just holding it, I don't see how to replace the blade. I have a good idea, but I'm not gonna play with it til I have to. I don't want to unfurl a spring in the house and break my new tape before I use it. There's no manual, and I couldn't find anything online to confirm, so I'll figure it out when the time comes.

The action is smooth, and the recoil seems about right. I'll fine tune that in the field. It's easy adjusting tension. Just press in a retaining tab, and rotate the housing.

So... So far, so good. It's passed(mostly) the 'sitting in front of the computer' test. Looking for to using it. Dealing with a regular power tape sucks in the field.
 
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  • #33
It's not an old school nail. It's a two position toggle. As it's shown in the pic, zero is just about where the tip of the nail is if you allow some penetration. It also flips out to be more like a hooktape, where I guess you'd stick it in the top of the log, but you'd have to account for the change in zero.

IMG_20211126_190701.jpg
 
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  • #36
That clip was leading me away from the Husky. I have a couple I can use though, or maybe even a toy biner. That's easy to fix. What bothers me most is the poly leader and the way it's riveted. I used to have a tape repair kit, but I don't know what happened to it. If I had it, I'd probably redo the attachment.

I'm just guessing, but I'm thinking that toggle is meant to be used in the pictured position, and when you pull the tape, it straightens, then levers out of the wood and returns. I'll have to try it, but I don't know about putting much tension on the splice. Even if the eyelets hold, it could deform the poly material and pull out. Dunno. I'll have to see what it does in wood.
 
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  • #40
Ok, I just tried it on my livingroom log(pictured above), and the toggle works pretty well. Doesn't take too much pressure to collapse it, and the tape comes back.
 
My Spencer is missing the end where the nail goes. I have a damaged Spencer with that toggle on it. I'm going to cut mine back and rivet a foot of the other tape on to mine with the toggle. Might work.
 
You know, I've got the splice kits but I don't think it's worth the bother. Just get a new tape and be done with it. A couple of tips... don't out walk your tape and a don't get a twist bind in it and all will be good!
 
And if you cut on a slope, jerk your tape out before the log rolls downhill.

Austin, that nail is absolutely worthless on hardwoods like Beech.
Pushing that into a frozen Beech log is impossible.

Ditto about splicing tapes.
We used to do that in the old days.
Someone spliced a tape too short and we got a bunch of Larch logs rejected at the mill.
They declassed them down to the next length and guess who had to pay the difference in price.

That is when we stopped splicing.
Can buy a LOT of new tapes for the several grand that cost us.
 
Last edited:
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  • #45
It's like everything else. You gotta do it right. The tapes I was splicing were $2 $1/ft * 100'-200', and it would have taken instruments more precise than I own to find the error when finished. That tape I just bought would be better when I finished splicing it.

edit:
Improved correctness. $2/ft included a reel, and you wouldn't necessarily need a new one every time you broke a tape.

edit2:
Holy hell, I have no idea what these things should cost now. The supplier we usually use ranges from $1.50-$3/ft depending on length. I found a 30M replacement for $160 on amazon, but 100' is $267??? Whatever. They're expensive, and virtually obsolete these days. I bought 100' yellow clad from the consignment shop for $5 a couple years ago in really good shape. That's the cheap one, and sells for ~$200. I think I've used it twice. That's a tool that was every day use back in the day :^D
 
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stig said:
Austin, that nail is absolutely worthless on hardwoods like Beech.
Pushing that into a frozen Beech log is impossible.
Click to expand...
That's a good point, so what nail do you use? I'm sure the Aussies face a similar issue with their thin bark hardwoods.
 
I even carry a spencer when I'm working 40 foot pipe. Use a torpedo with a heavy magnet to hold one end in place while you go walk.
 
Windsor makes good tapes (yes cheap snap but if it really bothered me I would change it) , had a Spencer but prefer the weight and recoil of the orange plastic one , built well it seems and the little rubber protector where the stinger is riveted to the tape end works ...
 
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