Safebloc question

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Benjo75

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I've been using the Safebloc for a couple weeks now. I really like it. It doesn't have as much friction as I had expected but I'm using it on every rigging job so far. I know there's a 4 to 1 rule for the bend radius of rope. I've used blocks for 15 years so I've never really worried about the bend radius. The bend radius on the Safebloc is significantly less. It has very smooth edges but it's only about 1.5 inches thick. And the rope is making an 180 degree turn at the top. I've only used 1/2 rope so far but that would be considerably sharper for a 5/8 or 3/4. I also understand that there is some friction below the turn. But it looks like the majority of the friction takes place at the top in the first turn.

I'm just wondering if this would weaken my rope enough to be concerned about. I am using the Safebloc as my main rigging point at times but I'm not rigging as big of pieces as I was with a regular block yet. I am using it in conjunction with the GRCS on decent sized wood. I've seen where it's used as friction for the butt of a limb when it's tip tied to control swing. Should I get a set of X Rings, the triple rings, for my main rigging point and use the Safebloc as a redirect? I was doing negative rigging Friday to block down the stub. That's when I started really looking at the bend radius of this setup. Thanks for the advice, Ben.
 
I wouldn't use it because it's made by Sherrill, same company that sold shower rings for life support and wouldn't help out when one broke and a guy fell.
 
You're right, it's not ideal. It is practical, and useful, but certainly not ideal. Technically a tailboard block should have the bigger sheave on the top too, but we let that one slide. . .
 
I you are negative blocking, you might look at a high stretch rope.

I'd suggest it is not good for 'snubbing off' a load, rather than 'letting it run'.


If you're able to use an overhead rigging point, but still dropping semi-dynamically, you can hang it higher to get more rope into the system below the SafeBloc.


Seems like the lowest bend will see the most force, and the highest bend will see the least force.
 
Not crazy about the bend radius either nor would I want to dead catch a big load on it but it will do the job of a block in most situations as David and a few others have shown in their videos.
 
I'm curious the bend radius at the lower two, more highly loaded bends.

The top bend only has enough load on it to be held by one, maybe two guys, as best I can figure. If you are wanting to use a, POW, too, you're cutting to big, I think. Change to rings or a block, with a POW, imo.
 
I'm loving my safebloc. I use it a lot for smaller/medium rigging as it avoids having to teach a bunch of unskilled groundies how to use a porty. They like the predictability of the friction & the learning curve has been quite a smooth one.
I think the bend radius is acceptable for smaller diameter lines ( I use it with 11mm & 13mm) as long as you load it appropriately i.e. Let it run as opposed to catching it.
 
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I first thought the most friction would be at the lower bends also. But after looking at it closer it appears to me that even though the lower bends do have friction, they have very little bend. That tells me that there is very little friction. Now the top has about a 200 degree turn. Well over 180 degrees. And that's spread over less than a 2 inch thick block. I would think that's where the most friction is since that's where it makes the tightest turn. I'm not worried and breaking a rope since I'm not catching monster pieces with it. I was just wondering about a 3/4 rope which will have a lot tighter bend radius. I would guess 2 to 1 instead of the recommended 4 to 1.

Either way I'm really enjoying using it. Using a tree brake and either a block or aerial friction makes my rigging ropes last so much longer that's its very worth it to me. What little I've spent on these devices has far outweighed their cost by saving my ropes. And the reduced load on the rigging point is the main selling point for me.
 
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