Reaming

What I don't like about the new saws is that the AV is so squishy that they let the bar climb up into a bind before you can do much about it, but I still need a lot of practice reaming as I just rarely ever use it. I had a new Stihl chain with such an aggressive side plate angle that it would dig in either side of the kerf and try to walk up and out. I had never encountered that before, and I almost couldn't complete the cut because of it.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #27
I was trying to tune a ported limited coil 24” Dolmar 6100 once and made the mistake of having the bar buried with one had on the saw. Bout climbed into my face. Don’t bury the tip…
 
I've never seen one in the wild. I wish Makita stayed in the gas saw game. I would seriously pay money to have a (supported)gas saw in Makita teal.
 
They still make them, and red was the dolmar color. Makita has owned them for a long time, but was smart enough to leave them alone. I have a few of their battery saws too, it's literally all i run lol
 
Yeah they did, but they still do.... i remember reading that, but they still have them listed even on their own site

 
Although now that I'm clicking the try to buy it seems you may be right 😭😭😭😭😭
 
Thx but I was looking for smaller, wanted a 50 cc one, and likely next spring. I have a 7910 that i love, alas not ported, but it's got the full wrap handle and that's amazing.

Also thx but i wouldn't have a clue what to do with a 9010 around here! I know there's no such thing as too much saw, but that would be overkill for all but the biggest stuff here.
 
Big saws seem like they should be more fun than are. Yank! Yank! Yank! blub.blub.blub... RARRR, RaRRR. "Oof... Did this thing gain weight?!" RAAAAAAAAAAA, RAAAAAAAA "Oh, time to refill the gas..."Glug, glug glug....

glug, glug, glug...

"Shit, I hope I brought enough fuel... I thought 1G would be enough!"
 
The thing about big saws is that they have power to spare for pure speed since the smaller saws met the threshold for pulling chain through wood at a decent rate. Take advantage of that extra power with a more aggressive chain and a bigger sprocket, and the amount of wood cut per tank goes way up. I liked my 2188 with muffler mod for that reason. It was relatively light, had a little more fuel capacity than a 660, and when running a 8t rim with aggressive chain, I'd cut almost twice what another guy was cutting with his 660. Power wise they were about the same. I haven't really put the 9010 to work yet. I just haven't had the right circumstances, but with what all I've got in it, it's grown like $600-800 in value from stupid inflation, so I figure I'll get my money's worth of work out of it before I'd sell it.
 
Oh I'm sure both of those saws are complete beasts, and blow my old beat up stock one out of the water. But fortunately i don't have to do much heavy production cutting other than a bit of firewood, and with my nautical themed rigging setup the cutting i was doing will be even less moving forward. I ironically cut most of my firewood with the battery saws, lots of smaller stuff makes for easier processing. The redneck kiln i built worked great too for drying some greener stuff i had as an experiment, so that idea will be explored further since it kills all the bugs and really dried stuff out (more than seasoned imo), causing deep checks and splits as the steam left. With my airtight stove it really helps put out more heat too, and in time i hope to mess around with drying/cooking torrified wood, and hopefully pressing logs and other shapes from torrified chips. I would think my 50 ton press would be enough, make a pipe form for the logs and just pull a lever to turn full on waste into fuel.

When we first got the stove i was doing it at night too since i was working full time plus some, so the battery saws were more neighbor friendly, as in you couldn't even hear anything other than the faint sound of wood cracking from the maul. Also it wouldn't wake the kids up, which tended to aggravate my better half :lol: For me it was also far easier after my chemo, even with the compression relief trying to start my big one was a bit much for quite awhile, so running it would have been misery. I could run it all day now but that hasn't always been the case, and besides the small stuff you don't you don't need to split much is the easiest and fastest stuff for me because i mainly split by hand. I'm cutting most stuff at around 12" so i can load them straight in so they burn better and don't try to roll out, so it's easy to process.

My 7910 drinks fuel too imo, nothing to run a couple gallons a day if you're running it all day, but that's very rare for me. It's so productive for the market around here that i was doing fine using an arbor trolley and log arch as my main material handling tools on most jobs, and was able to dice most trees i do up in a tank or two. It'll pump enough chips out I'm usually dragging a tarp with me when I'm using it, and it'll fill up a garbage can in those 2 tanks worth too. I like the dolmars because the gas ones really spray oil, and that's what really attracted me to dolmar saws in the first place. I run the oil wide open and go half a gas tank or a touch more to a full oil, and i maybe have a 1/4 to 1/8 tank of oil left when it's empty. Over the years I've really noticed how well that much lubrication helps things, the bar lasts and lasts, the chains run smooth with less vibration, far more power goes to cutting wood rather than friction and heat, and every one of my gas dolmar saws are like that. The battery ones are getting thirsty every other battery swap on mine, but they don't seem to oil quite as well as my gas ones do, feels more like a stihl does to me. It's adequate, but it's not the sloppy mess i know and love :lol:
 
I can't argue against quiet. Dolmars might have a plastic oil pump adjustment screw which can wear out quickly reducing oil flow. I modded the pump on my 2188 to do about 2 tanks of oil per tank of gas. I just wish they would make a channel down the middle of long bars so oil can be pumped to the sprocket and lower side of the bar, since so much gets flung off the tip.

What does your kiln look like? I was thinking of drying some wood by stacking it around a campfire of junk wood. I'd hope to give about 5 ricks a significant boost in drying in a day.
 
It was a full on cobble job using the wooden sides (2x10s? Lots of air leaks) off the truck lol. My new one i was thinking of doing ferrocement for the shell and packing green sand in it for cheap but effective insulation, concrete blocks is the other alternative i was considering. I simply used a salamander heater for the blower and heater, which worked surprisingly well, but moving forward I'll likely move towards something else, perhaps even an open superheated steam setup so I'll be able to hit 400 degrees to get into the torrified wood range while excluding air. I have a few ibc tote cages so i was planning on making it big enough to do 2 of them at once, less handling because of the totes, and in time I'll do trays or something for doing chips. I'll see if i can find a pic...
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #42
Big saws seem like they should be more fun than are. Yank! Yank! Yank! blub.blub.blub... RARRR, RaRRR. "Oof... Did this thing gain weight?!" RAAAAAAAAAAA, RAAAAAAAA "Oh, time to refill the gas..."Glug, glug glug....

glug, glug, glug...

"Shit, I hope I brought enough fuel... I thought 1G would be enough!"
I don’t use my ported 3120 much but my grin hits my ears every time I do 😁

Probably said before it’s like Thors Hammer of saws. When the wood is big and nasty that and some .404 are good medicine. Gas it up, waddle over to the log, drop the saw and let it eat. Probably buck up some several foot in dia stuff this winter.
 
No pics, but it was basically a 3x3' tunnel 8 foot long, and yes it didn't dry evenly due to bad airflow. The dead corner wood you would leave, same with a layer on the ground. A floor and better airflow, ideally able to get to all the wood, would make a ton of difference. In the end i ran half loads up front for about an hour, it seemed the hotter it was the better and faster the stuff dried. Basically what they try to prevent in a sawmill is what you want in firewood from what I've noticed, the furry splits help it get going super easy and get things heated up quickly.
 
Yeah you can definitely tell that the moisture content goes up again as it is out. That's why ideally I'll get it to torrification, it basically cooks the wood like we cook food, starting the maillard reactions and popping the cells. This makes it very hydrophobic and rot resistant since it's basically no longer wood. It also loses its strength so it's easier to grind, and lesser quality wood can be compressed to a consistent heating value roughly that of soft coal.
 
Granted it is summer now, but I've had some chunks of hedge drying in my house for a few years, and they were cracking, but gradually have closed up, until I noticed this year they were almost solid again.
 
Did you notice that in the spring or summer? The moisture content changes due to humidity levels. You can determine the water content with a nail and a multimeter, good way to see how dry something actually is, and with a kiln you can easily get way less than regularly seasoned wood, but over time it'll absorb moisture from the air, probably closing some checks and stuff as the fibers swell back up. Granted this is less of a problem in winter, and it's not really a problem at all because it just becomes seasoned firewood. I just noticed if i burned it before it had a chance to absorb moisture it really cranked the heat out (less water to evaporate and steam hinders the secondary burn), so i would usually do about a weeks worth and bring as much of it in the house to keep as dry as possible. It was also nice to be able to burn wood you just got, say you happened into some locust and there's a cold snap coming, you could just put it in this box and walk away for awhile, and when you come back it's all dry. Bigger logs seemed to go the other way, you'll dry the outer part but not the inside as much, but when it sits for a week or so it'll pull the moisture from the center. They burn fine either way but it's definitely not a uniform water content process
 
Last edited:
I need to look up the multimeter thing. It makes perfect sense. More resistance would be dryer guessing.. so a base line and set up.
Interesting. Should have thought of that.
 
Thank God for the us forestry department! There's a pdf download for it, and if one was so inclined they actually sell meters that do the same thing, but for my needs a couple nails and what i got works well.
 
Back
Top