GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
The one I was commenting on Justin looked like the notch was more than 1/2 by the way he described where his cuts went...
Gary
Gary
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xtremetrees
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- #27
pic 5
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
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xtremetrees
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- #29
Thank all I will make the new holland spinn its bald tires we load the log truck with it, that first load is on days micro logging. I belive this is eco sensitive stuff when you put tree to the best use possible. My bar is to short? naahh I just free up one side. In pic 5 i started cuttting thru pulling the saw to me.. Not good?. Thats all folks.
Burnham I may be cutting my house side free or so that Im sure I dont toenail or to insure no damage in that direction but with a short bar 20 inch with 66 I like my technique! I wish i could start a poll am I too thinon my notches> GRRR!
Burnham I may be cutting my house side free or so that Im sure I dont toenail or to insure no damage in that direction but with a short bar 20 inch with 66 I like my technique! I wish i could start a poll am I too thinon my notches> GRRR!
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
If you mean cutting the hingewood off of one side as freeing up, that's not really a good idea, like Burnham said. You should take hingewood down evenly, otherwise it could cause the tree to swing towards the side with more holding wood.
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xtremetrees
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squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
:what:
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xtremetrees
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Ok good night all thanks for the review.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Au revoir.
T
TheTreeSpyder
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Even leaving just a small tab on the lean side will give the anti spin; as that compressed area would become stretched pulling if it went to swing.
The first notch looks dutched to me(intentional?); the main fibre pull seems center mast; but hard to decode if that is forward head lean; possible/risky dutch correction or rope pull. If true center pull from CG or rope; i'd prefer an outer not center steering.
The first notch looks dutched to me(intentional?); the main fibre pull seems center mast; but hard to decode if that is forward head lean; possible/risky dutch correction or rope pull. If true center pull from CG or rope; i'd prefer an outer not center steering.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
True but if you're cutting a uneven hinge and going so far as to cut your far side right off, all I'm saying is you'd better be doing that on purpose not by accident. I've 'steered' trees many times by cutting an uneven hinge, all things equal the tree will swing towards the side with more holding wood.
That's if I understood you correctly, otherwise I'm just babbling like usual.
Paul B
I dig hammocks.
...
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xtremetrees
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- #39
I got your troll right here ya skinny necked pencil pushing geek wad.
Burnham
Woods walker
Uh oh...
sawinredneck
Treehouser
YUP!!!
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xtremetrees
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It was my intention to free up my far side on wood that is bigger than my saw as a climber I think this is safer than not freeing it up and leaving a tab(potential toenail) on the far side. I don't use a bar over 20 inches 14 yrs doing it now with a 20 inch why change it, especially working aloft. I will continue to free up the far side as I think it is much safer than leaving a tab of wood on the far side. I understand thats it is very important to leave your hinging wood even.
You say my holding wood is thin. Today I had a bobcat smoke its tires pulling a stubb. I'd never seen a bobcat smoke its tires but it did. Because you guys said I was thin on my holding wood. It couldnt pull it I had to saw on down to about 1/2 inch before the log would go.
To increase my holding wood I may start hanging a pully instead of a pull rope thereby doubling the bobcats force. Any doing this method of pulling logs by hanging a pully atop the stubb.I will employ this Monday so I can try to increase my holding wood.
Any suggestions on increaseing holding wood appreciated. I just dont want to bomb my 12,500 lb brand new pully.
You say my holding wood is thin. Today I had a bobcat smoke its tires pulling a stubb. I'd never seen a bobcat smoke its tires but it did. Because you guys said I was thin on my holding wood. It couldnt pull it I had to saw on down to about 1/2 inch before the log would go.
To increase my holding wood I may start hanging a pully instead of a pull rope thereby doubling the bobcats force. Any doing this method of pulling logs by hanging a pully atop the stubb.I will employ this Monday so I can try to increase my holding wood.
Any suggestions on increaseing holding wood appreciated. I just dont want to bomb my 12,500 lb brand new pully.
N
Newfie
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At least he's literate and coherent all of the time. A goal for you to work on.:what:
sawinredneck
Treehouser
Perhaps more of a notch would allow you more holding wood and more control without having to force the tree over so hard?
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xtremetrees
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Point taken newfie.
Sawin are you saying cut a deeper notch, Ive traditionally cut about 1/3 diameter for my notch. When aloft I know that cutting deeper into my notch say 1/2 the diameter, helps if making a taller or more open faced notch to direct top impact on driveway etc. underneath. Most the time I'm looking for logs to lay flat thou there is time I wany the top to flip and land on its head and not the butt to land first over the drive etc. If it is crutial for top placement to be correct I may even walk around and hold base of the tree as it breaks free from the spar.
Sawin are you saying cut a deeper notch, Ive traditionally cut about 1/3 diameter for my notch. When aloft I know that cutting deeper into my notch say 1/2 the diameter, helps if making a taller or more open faced notch to direct top impact on driveway etc. underneath. Most the time I'm looking for logs to lay flat thou there is time I wany the top to flip and land on its head and not the butt to land first over the drive etc. If it is crutial for top placement to be correct I may even walk around and hold base of the tree as it breaks free from the spar.
sawinredneck
Treehouser
I am asking as much as you are Robert, I honestly don't know, it's just an idea I wanted to throw out and see what the others thought.
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Cut a deeper notch when pulling spars over with machinery vote yes/or no.
Hang a pulley to double the bobcats force and to increase hinge yes or no.
Hang a pulley to double the bobcats force and to increase hinge yes or no.
T
TheTreeSpyder
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If you cut half way through a circle; then plot hinge in the remaining half; the back/ pulling part of hinge can tend to be in a narrowing part of the circle. this i believe yields less side to side steering. Too shallow can give similar; i like plotting back of hinge to finish at fattest part of tree; then plot in if the Cg needs further or lessor undermined.
If you dutch and pull close, the close can push back as you pull forward; the more you pull forward, the more you also push back against your own efforts; smoking tires(?).
High angle pull rope; also reduces traction, by giving lift to vehicle.
If you dutch and pull close, the close can push back as you pull forward; the more you pull forward, the more you also push back against your own efforts; smoking tires(?).
High angle pull rope; also reduces traction, by giving lift to vehicle.
SkwerI
Treehouser
I'm not a real big fan of using excessive force when it's not necessary. Of course you shouldn't leave such a thick hinge that the skid steer has to smoke the tires trying to pull it over. If you need that much force then you need a better plan anyway.
Oak can be tenacious on the stump. I've had a 36" trunk with a 15 degree head lean that I couldn't get to bend the hinge. By the time I got it to fall the hinge was less than a half inch wide. Those little peckerpoles less than 18" can be even more resilient.
And if you set a pulley on top of the spar in order to double up on the pulling rope, you will smash your pulley.
PS- Kenny, I know you mean well and I'm sure you know what you're talking about, but it doesn't translate into English at all.
Oak can be tenacious on the stump. I've had a 36" trunk with a 15 degree head lean that I couldn't get to bend the hinge. By the time I got it to fall the hinge was less than a half inch wide. Those little peckerpoles less than 18" can be even more resilient.
And if you set a pulley on top of the spar in order to double up on the pulling rope, you will smash your pulley.
PS- Kenny, I know you mean well and I'm sure you know what you're talking about, but it doesn't translate into English at all.
J
Jonseredbred
Guest
All the bullshit aside, what no one can tell from your pictures is are they working out for you and your style of work???
Everyone can comment that thy look like they got dutched or are cut off on one side. What we dont know is why you made that particular cut?? Was it to steer a limb or butt???
Was it because the butt leaned back and you needed a big hinge to get it pulled over??
This is the important stuff you need to put in your post's if you desire an honest answer, anything else makes it look like your shining us.
Everyone can comment that thy look like they got dutched or are cut off on one side. What we dont know is why you made that particular cut?? Was it to steer a limb or butt???
Was it because the butt leaned back and you needed a big hinge to get it pulled over??
This is the important stuff you need to put in your post's if you desire an honest answer, anything else makes it look like your shining us.
