Oregon chain compared to others

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #51
Willard, I'm on the other side of the pacific, and I kind of doubt that the specialty chain is sold here, but I guess I could call them up again and ask. The girl in their office here who took my call was nice. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.
 
Willard, I'm on the other side of the pacific, and I kind of doubt that the specialty chain is sold here, but I guess I could call them up again and ask. The girl in their office here who took my call was nice. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.
I have heard they put extra chrome on the cutters. so the longer a chain holds a sharp edge the less stretching you will get.
Willard.
 
Must be something wrong with me ( other than the pinko veggie commie stuff:D)

I like Oregon chain just fine and the stuff I use is manufactured in the US.

I quit running Stihl chain about 20 years ago when they put a little safety thingie in front of the raker on their 3/8 chain.
The damned thing made the chain useless for boring/plunging once you had filed about a 3rd of the cutter down.
Since I borecut a LOT, that made me stop buying Stihl chain.

By the way, y'all must have some awfully hard trees if you really have to file for every second tank of gas.

Must be because you keep poking those extra long bars into the dirt:P
 
I quit running Stihl chain about 20 years ago when they put a little safety thingie in front of the raker on their 3/8 chain.
The damned thing made the chain useless for boring/plunging once you had filed about a 3rd of the cutter down.
Since I borecut a LOT, that made me stop buying Stihl chain.
Yes about 1990 is when Stihl put ramped rakers on their 3/8" RS chain just like Oregons LG/ LGX which was introduced in 1982. Before 1990 the RS chain had the safety ramp on top of the side link directly in front of each raker. Hans Peter Stihl himself told me that ramp was just a optical illusion for the safety folks, as I mentioned to him that when the raker or depth gauge is in the "kickback zone" of the upper quadrent of the bar nose the ramp on the sidelink no longer protects the raker.
But Stihl does still sell 3/8 RS without any safety ramps what so ever. Its called Rapid Super Klassic [RSK]. You can see it on their website.
Yes I don't know what all the fuss is about Oregon chain being too soft, too much stretch and won't hold an edge. I use both Stihl and Oregon and each chain does the job for me. I think alot of saw operators lose sight of how a sharp chain should cut, just like running a saw with a dirty air filter. As the filter gets dirtier it runs slower and slower, and the operator thinks the saw is running normal.

Willard.
 
Willard, your opinion and expertise are well appreciated but the US Oregon chain isn't the same stuff as what you use. The US Oregon chain is almost all garbage, frustrating to use for more than an hour or two.
 
Willard, your opinion and expertise are well appreciated but the US Oregon chain isn't the same stuff as what you use. The US Oregon chain is almost all garbage, frustrating to use for more than an hour or two.
Brian don't take my earlier information about US Oregon chain set in stone. The roll of US made I have is still very good chain, but being able to easily get Canadian made stuff is easy for me to judge which one is more durable. The difference would be unnoticable for most folks. I just tend to be a little too fussy.
I run most times 16"-22" b/c. 32" on my 066 and 395 occasionally. With my short bars I touch up my chains often and its done quickly with the file at the stump. I always expect my chain to cut 110%. The Oregon chain is easier to touch up quickly and cuts a little faster then the Stihl [.058 vs .063 between the cutters for a narrower kerf ] and a bit thinner cutter. If I'm cutting sandy soiled pine or dirty wood I perfer the Stihl but the Stihl stills needs to be touched up almost as often .
US Oregon chain is not garbage chain and if there never was a Oregon chain Portland plant then Stihl would still be selling the old scratcher chain.

Willard
 
By the way, y'all must have some awfully hard trees if you really have to file for every second tank of gas.
I doubt it's any harder that Danish wood

.Just depends on what you are cutting .Most of mine is dead stuff .

No big deal every couple of tanks because it seems I've done that forever .You're talking maybe 5 minutes on a 20" loop unless you rock it .

Not all Stihl chain has safety ramps nor does all of Oregon .You just have to watch what you buy .

I had the bright idea once of cutting the long guard links off a small Oregon chain with a die grinder .I thought what the hell it's still got the depth gauges ---wrong .That pot licker grabbed like an alligator .Bad plan . .
 
I don't get the all or nothing approach folks have to what they buy. I prefer Stihls but I do not hate Husqvarna saws. I rather liked the 372. I would buy whatever truck suited my needs, whether it was a Chevy, Ford, Dodge or what have you. Folks seem to have such fierce brand identification. I am just not wired that way.
 
I like Stihl so I try to buy the same model saws so one bar wrench works on all saws and if one saw dies, I can use parts from it to keep others going. Consistency
 
I like Stihl so I try to buy the same model saws so one bar wrench works on all saws and if one saw dies, I can use parts from it to keep others going. Consistency


Me too and because all the repair shops here are Stihl dealers. It makes more sense to buy Stihl here, but huskies are fine saws.
 
How do you know? Do you run them sometimes?

Jk'ing

I was as loyal to husky as I am now to Stihl when I was younger. Husky drove me away by not being on the ball. I'm sure that they have some fine models now but if they hadn't been so far behind when the 272 was the competitor to the 046 I would never have dropped them. I have never seen such a blaring difference in quality/technology between Stihl and Husky since. So I've stuck with Stihl.
 
What Willie said. I can part out a saw to keep another running.

I am not "brand loyal". I am loyal to something that works. Something that saves me money and/or by performing well ...
I am into Bang for my Buck.
My main way of going with saws is Stihl in the air..Husky on the ground. I will try other products to see how they perform in my work environment. I will also rent something to try it out.. I am always open to something better that works.
Oregon chain was costing me more time and cut hard wood brush for crap...Stretches bad and too little and soft of cutter. Does not last as long.
Stihl Chain stays on my 200T. Works awesome in the tree. Stays sharp.
Carlton/Woodland Pro I use where it will get the most abuse. On the ground. It only sees big wood in the air. Chunking down. Keeps cutting even when it gets some dirt. In our brush...count on dirt in the stumps.. How many times do you really want to field sharpen that damn chain?
If Oregon can show me they have a chain that will work on my saws in my conditions and perform as good as what I have chosen to use, through charting cost and performance, I will gladly spread some money in their direction.. As I do with every vendor/brand I use :)
 
QUOTE=squisher;413554]How do you know? Do you run them sometimes?
Jk'ing
I was as loyal to husky as I am now to Stihl when I was younger. Husky drove me away by not being on the ball. I'm sure that they have some fine models now but if they hadn't been so far behind when the 272 was the competitor to the 046 I would never have dropped them. I have never seen such a blaring difference in quality/technology between Stihl and Husky since. So I've stuck with Stihl.[/QUOTE]


Thats funny . I was the complete opposite, when I was younger I was loyal to Stihl [27yrs] even worked for them in 1989 when the 044 first came out. Then just a few yrs ago I switched to Husky. 372, 346 ,395, 576AT [X3] and a 338xpt to keep the MS200 company. Looking forward to the new 562 XP AutoTune.
The 272 replaced the 268 in 1991-92, which was the competition for the 044 at the time. The 046 didn't come out till 1995. The 371 replaced the 272 in 1996 with inboard clutch and air-injection. BUT I heard from some PNW fallers that the 272 with 72cc and outboard clutch handled better then the 371 and 046 in limbing big softwood. Still today the 272 fulled modded is the fastest in its class. Those saws are in Quebec.
Here is a photo of a 272 XP I took last summer, this saw is 18 yrs old and has never cut a stick of wood ,the owner showed me the bill of sale dated Jan. 1993.

Willard.
 

Attachments

  • Husqvarna 272XP 001.jpg
    Husqvarna 272XP 001.jpg
    214.1 KB · Views: 8
  • Husqvarna 272XP 003.jpg
    Husqvarna 272XP 003.jpg
    179.1 KB · Views: 10
Willard, your opinion and expertise are well appreciated but the US Oregon chain isn't the same stuff as what you use. The US Oregon chain is almost all garbage, frustrating to use for more than an hour or two.

Brian if you read that post of mine that Willard was replying to, I made sure to specify that The Oregon chain, I use is US made.

It works fine IMO.

And even though I'm just a dumb commie, I do cut a lot of trees.
I'd venture a guess that I'm probably the Houser with the most noches on his handlebar.

I was asked 2 days ago by a newspaper writer how many trees I've felled in total.
I couldn't answer that of course, but it got me thinking.
So in the evening I sat down and started adding up how many I've cut each year since I started in -76.

Far as I can figure, I'm getting pretty close to the 100000 mark.
Yes, that was one hundred thousand.
 
Willard, that whole "which brand is best" discussion is a fine way to pass time while eating your lunch in the woods.

I've run most of the European brands during my time.

Mostly my choice of brand has been determined by what kind of dealer was to be found locally.

When I worked in Switzerland, I ran Jonsered, because that was what I could get.

Same goes for the first 5 years or so of working in Denmark.

Late 70es and early 80es Stihl had a lot of engine problems, so I stayed with Husky.

Then in 92 we moved to a different part of the country, where we have lived since.
The Stihl dealer here is a great guy, who knows that pro-fallers live by their saws.
When I bring a saw in, he'll drop what he is doing and get right on it, so I can get back in the woods earning money. ( that doesn't matter today, since I've got backup saws , but in leaner times it did)

The Husky/Jonsered dealer is an asshole, to put it bluntly. A cheating, no good type.
So I'm sticking to Stihl for that simple reason.


That said, Husqvarna seems to be dropping the pro market on the floor here, concentrating on selling saws for hobbyists and firewoodcutters .
And Jonsered is a joke. Why even keep the brand alive, when they are identical to Huskys once you get their clothes off?
 
Mostly my choice of brand has been determined by what kind of dealer was to be found locally.

There ya geaux, case closed. It doesn't really matter much what saw you prefer if you're not a mechanic and there's no one to service your brand.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #72
My Stihls out number my Huskies, but each running saw from both brands that I own I very much like...I guess you could almost say that I'm crazy about them.:wack: The brand means a lot less to me than the particular model with it's attributes. If I hear about a "great" model saw, I try to find one. I'm not too keen on either the Stihl or Husky dealers in the area, but at least at the Stihl place you can have a conversation with someone who knows something about saws based upon experience, unlike at Husky where it all comes out like a shiny page of sales literature.

Someone gave me forty or fifty chains from a rental place where they were used once and then taken off the rental saws. Mostly Husky brand chain, whatever that really is? Carlton? They all have those ramps between the depth gauges. I grind them all down to the side plates with a bench grinder, it only takes a couple minutes per chain. The chain seems to work perfectly fine that way, I guess different from Al's experience.
 
I have ground them off with a bench grinder also. Might be different styles. I remember a discussion on the A-site about doing so. Some A-holes assured me I was opening myself up to huge legal negligence suits. Kiss off.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #74
I can't see any possible problems arising from grinding the ramps, say unless you cut into and weakened the side plates and were giving the damaged chains to employees or something....? It occurs that the chains are slightly heavier than normal compared to an unramped chain, with that bit of steel that you can't eliminate left between the rivets.
 
I can't see any possible problems arising from grinding the ramps, say unless you cut into and weakened the side plates and were giving the damaged chains to employees or something....? It occurs that the chains are slightly heavier than normal compared to an unramped chain, with that bit of steel that you can't eliminate left between the rivets.
Jay that Husqvarna chain you have there is rebadged Oregon 72 -73 LPX with "Husq" stamped on it. All the new Husqvarna I have bought came with that chain and that chain holds a real nice edge , as I commented before I think Oregon filled the Husqvarna chain order with extra chrome.
About grinding the safety ramps off the top of the drive links, I wouldn't do it unless your running a 32" or longer b/c. Shorter bars the kickback energy in increased greatly and its gonna bite you when you least expect it. I only modify chain for timbersport competition in a controlled environment.
I was banned from another site from a argument with a couple of members about kickback. I have witnessed some fellow loggers with life threatening cuts and I know what I'm talking about.
If you want a lighter faster chain go with the Stihl 33RSC or Oregon 72 LGX. These chains have a safety ramp on the depth gauge [raker] and are much better then nothing at all.
Willard.
 
Back
Top