Oregon 91VXL

[MasterBlaster]

I always tickle a new chain.

 

[Nutball]

I've found the .043 3/8LP Oregon isn't as jumpy as the .050. It has less of a hook. I sharpened a new one recently both to get it razor sharp, and to give it a good hook profile for hopefully less friction and easier cutting. It make that .043 chain super jumpy. I had to file away the hook back into a thick wedge profile.

 

[Magnus]

There is a common confusion with filing that sharpness and shape/angles are the same, it isn't.
Even with shapes like ( rather than C you need same sharp edge even if its thin. Even a straight angle like L shaped can get a rasor sharp edge althoug it is hard to do.

Magnus if you were cutting eastern USA hardwoods with this chain, like aptly-named Rock Maple, aka Sugar maple, what would you do with this chain? Let it chatter and grab and bounce until you have filed off enough of the cutters every nite for 2-3 weeks even thought the cutters weren't dull until finally the tooth is short enough to be less grabby after one quarter to one third of it has been filed away?

I have been to East US on the northern parts. Got to see some wood to. I don't think sugar maple there was very hard. A lot like the maple here from what I could tell. We have red maple here that is hard as your oak in NH.
The grabby part is in the shape of the cutters edge. Once you round filed it to be more ( than C it will increase speed and smoothness. If its sharp that is...
There are multiple ways around doing this. I let file sit a tad higher in tooth or use 4'5mm file. Later is more common by me.
I file them before it ever get close to a saw. I file again when it doesn't cut by its weight or start to loose edge. One stoke is usually enough then. Wait longer it will need more as the edge gets beaten up. More strokes mean you get behind the tempered zone and it last less.
I tested this VXL and other chains out of the box on same saw in same wood and can't really say they were better in any way.

 

[Frankie]

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wC2erHrwyIY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> ... This is a tool worth having imho ... I mark a left and right cutter with a paint pen and let dry ... If indoors use a flexible task light to illuminate the cutters ... with bar in vise file until paint is gone on cutting edge (usually 2 to 4 strokes) ; continue sharpening until you see the marked tooth - I flip the Saw around and repeat the procedure ... your chain should be sharp enuff to catch a fingernail ... now go cut wood ! If you keep the chain out of the dirt and the wood is clean you can buck up a lot of wood !

 

[cory]

I let file sit a tad higher in tooth or use 4'5mm file.

I was doing the same thing, using a 4.5mm=11/64" file to get less hook compared to the smaller 4.0mm=5/32" file, but then I couldn't find any more new 4.5mm files, dealer said they stopped making them?

 

[Nutball]

Online, ebay, loggerchain.com ect

 

[lxskllr]

I like using files a smidge small(5/32 for 3/8lp and 13/64 for 3/8 ). It allows better fine tuning of the hook, and they fit nicer when the cutters get short.

 

[cory]

Online, ebay, loggerchain.com ect

Thank you

 

[Nutball]

Shops don't even know all saw models their brand makes, so they surely won't know what files are available.

 

[Magnus]

Shops don't even know all saw models their brand makes, so they surely won't know what files are available.

Then I would look for another shop. Its not always the shop with most signs and best show case with lots of bling that give best service. There is likely someone around you that knows more and could help. Possibly not as easy to find...

I was doing the same thing, using a 4.5mm=11/64" file to get less hook compared to the smaller 4.0mm=5/32" file, but then I couldn't find any more new 4.5mm files, dealer said they stopped making them?

Stihl has them for some chain, Oregon has them as well as any parts supplier. Your dealer should be able to get them easily.

I like using files a smidge small(5/32 for 3/8lp and 13/64 for 3/8 ). It allows better fine tuning of the hook, and they fit nicer when the cutters get short.

The more hook/thin top plate there is faster wood wear on it regardless of how sharp it is. More material is stronger than less.
The position file is in tooth when filing is one way to get more hook. In change of file's angle when filing is better to change to get more hook. More hook make it get grabby and vibrate more with more wear on drivelink sides and bar groove sides.

 

[Cut4fun]

@cory https://shop.performanceoutdoorequi...browse=-122236&shopBy=-40489&catalogId=-12183

If you call ask for Nate.

Dozen

5/32 Save Edge 5/32 round file
$12.00

11/64 Save Edge 11/64 round file
$12.00

3/16 Save Edge 3/16 round file
$12.00

13/64 Save Edge 13/64 round file
$12.00

7/32 Save Edge 7/32 round file
$12.00

singles https://shop.performanceoutdoorequi...browse=-122236&shopBy=-40489&catalogId=-12183

 

[Frankie]

The more hook/thin top plate there is faster wood wear on it regardless of how sharp it is. More material is stronger than less.
The position file is in tooth when filing is one way to get more hook. In change of file's angle when filing is better to change to get more hook. More hook make it get grabby and vibrate more with more wear on drivelink sides and bar groove sides.[/QUOTE]

I’ve experimented with different geometry on chains meself Magnus and I agree that too much hook isn’t good on a work chain ...I’ve found a new chain “comes alive” after 4+ sharpenings ... most likely because there is more chip-clearance ... A stitch in time saves nine with chain sharpness ... if you touch up with a few strokes every tank of fuel or so your chain cuts well and will LAST long time ... Years ago when I was new to saws I used to get em sharpened at dealer - they were sharp but they also ground away 1/4 of the tooth every time ! I can get many, many sharpenings (maybe .010 off tooth per filing) - key is to watch your chips and as soon as it starts to dull stop and sharpen or switch to another Saw ... Last job the 395xp bucked almost 2 face cord of 22” ash before she was in need of a touch up- then again that Saw will cut dull or sharp

 

[lxskllr]

Yea. doing hardwood, I hit the teeth every tank fill. Otherwise, I do them when it stops cutting as nice as I expect. Might be every two-three tanks on softwood unless I put it in the dirt, which happens way more than it should. Only time I cut with a dull chain is when I'm doing stuff like vines. Pretty much always scratching rocks, and I'm not using my good bars/chains. Vines cut ok with suboptimal sharpening anyway.

 

[Frankie]

Yea if you can keep em out of the dirt they last a lot longer ! A common misconception is that All the teeth MUST be the same length... not true imho ... the tooth/raker height is the key ... I’ve hit one side of a chain and took out 5 cutters, sharpened those and set raker height and the chain cut fine even though those 5 cutters were visually shorter ! To take ALL the teeth down to the shortest one is a waste of time imho if you are just Buckin wood !

 

[lxskllr]

I never worried about keeping the cutters the same. My chains cut fine for me. I'm not really fussy about it though. If it's making nice chips, I'm pretty happy. I'm sure I could do better, but I imagine I'm making slight improvements as time goes on with my normal sharpening. Can't see giving a chain a lot of attention with the violent lives they live. Spend the time doing an impeccable job, and you're just doing it again a half hour(or less) later.

 

[Frankie]

If a guy was falling / bore cutting then a silvey / simington sqr/sqr grinder would most likely be the smoothest/fastest cutting - for residential work I stick with the sqr/rnd as you almost always run into dirt/debris in the tree ... easy to sharpen in the field - I can touch up a 20” full house in about 3mins if need be

 

[cory]

@cory

Thank you , Cut4fun

 

[Magnus]

Fine reading.
If its real square ground you mean were angles meet in corner I see no reason why this could not be every were.
If its just flat filed you mean then no, I don't think it work so well at all, any were.

I’ve experimented with different geometry on chains meself Magnus and I agree that too much hook isn’t good on a work chain ...I’ve found a new chain “comes alive” after 4+ sharpenings ... most likely because there is more chip-clearance ... A stitch in time saves nine with chain sharpness ... if you touch up with a few strokes every tank of fuel or so your chain cuts well and will LAST long time ... Years ago when I was new to saws I used to get em sharpened at dealer - they were sharp but they also ground away 1/4 of the tooth every time ! I can get many, many sharpenings (maybe .010 off tooth per filing) - key is to watch your chips and as soon as it starts to dull stop and sharpen or switch to another Saw ... Last job the 395xp bucked almost 2 face cord of 22” ash before she was in need of a touch up- then again that Saw will cut dull or sharp

That it comes alive could be saw dust clearance, but also that by then you got it your way fully.
Filing every tank or when you notice it decrease in any way is the only way to learn and evolve I think. If its one stroke or 5 its not important as long as all teeth get sharp. You take less each time and don't go back the tempered surface. Hold edge better and better..
I loose performance in the saw before I see it in the dust.

Yea if you can keep em out of the dirt they last a lot longer ! A common misconception is that All the teeth MUST be the same length... not true imho ... the tooth/raker height is the key ... I’ve hit one side of a chain and took out 5 cutters, sharpened those and set raker height and the chain cut fine even though those 5 cutters were visually shorter ! To take ALL the teeth down to the shortest one is a waste of time imho if you are just Buckin wood !

I agree. They can vary from side to side even independently on each side to some extent.
As long as all are sharp and same depth guage it will work ok.
If I find a cutter needs more strokes to get sharp than the rest it will be shorter. If its just a little I leave rider alone and next filing it will catch up, if its a lot I check rider.

 

[Frankie]

The center pictures is what I’m using ... the far right is sqr/sqr ... far left is for Homeowners saw ??? ... sometimes a picture sez more than words

 

[lxskllr]

Far left looks like chipper chain. Not sure how available that is anymore. Maybe for harvesters? The more common semi chisel is a blend of left and middle. That's what I use.

 

[cory]

It comes standard on 201s as far as I know. Maybe you meant for larger saws

 

[Frankie]

The difference (above cutter pic ) left 1 angle , middle 2 angles simultaneously, right 3 angles simultaneously

 

[Tree09]

Left one is chipper chain, not as fast but handles dullness and other damage better. I have some for cutting stumps low so I don't mess up my good stuff. That's why it's used on mechanical setups.

 

[Magnus]

Chisel Tooth is in middle and right in pic. Chipper is on the left.
Most common today is semi chisel. Its whats sold most.
Chisel cut about 20% faster than chipper, 10% faster than semi chisel I would think.
Semichisel is more forgiving when filing. You can do a half assed job at it and it will still cut.
Chisel is easy to get a bit of beek to it and it actually perform worse.

Square filing chipper or semi chisel is not the best idea. Square filing chisel tooth is great.

The difference (above cutter pic ) left 1 angle , middle 2 angles simultaneously, right 3 angles simultaneously

How do you mean? I don't understand.

 

[Cut4fun]

This guy runs oregon semi and I turned him onto the stihl full chisel PS PS3 last year. Lets just say he sees the difference in the 2 chains.

Well he came back for another loop of the stihl chain, bar and handle . He got real lucky. Cant find anything else that busted. Beside the piece out of the rear flat.

So I made him another PS 62DL off the roll.