No Face

No face?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 30 100.0%

  • Total voters
    30
It's without a doubt a hack move, and you'd likely only get away with it on something like (some) pine or spruce etc. Try it on cottonwood or silver maple and they'd go sideways more often than not I would bet.

The point about flexible vs. brittle is good. But if it is a hack move or not i think depends on your repertoire/what all you can pull out of the holster; and if you choose a technique because it is best for the situation (from a wide choice from a given skillset), or you are lazy or if you don't know any better and do it all the time.

Same thing fer other stuff. Maybe you do the same as the next guy on this or that, maybe even same 60% of the time; but mebbe you are worth more because you are pulling that choice from a wider gradient of choices; giving more security and chance for success for customer. Same with doctor, construction, wood finisher etc.
 
ditto that......It called stump jumping......

Stumpjumping is a technique unto it's own as I'm sure you know. It's not just nescessarily cutting and pushing a small tree over with no face. It involves a 'twist' technique near the end with a angled cut to shoot the but of the tree off and cause the tree to fall in the direction your aiming it for. I would say a proper stumpjump should involve little to no pushing.
 
What i call stump jumping is a dutched close or just kerf (dutch no facing) to get force to build up pushing up, then throws forward. Kind of like in a horizontal that you kerf under and come down and try to get it not to just pop and drop straight, but where it kinda tries to pop out away from ya(even if it doesn't pop out away, it tries). Then, this put on a horizontal can allow something to jump our over fence or miss plants at base etc. when felling.
 
Well do what you want .Let me tell you though from experiance ,use a tractor . A dozer can not get enough ground speed to outrun a falling tree . Once the cable goes slack that tree will go where it wants to . Meanwhile you sit there on the seat looking over your shoulder holding your breath it doesn't hit something .
 
What i call stump jumping is a dutched close or just kerf (dutch no facing) to get force to build up pushing up, then throws forward. Kind of like in a horizontal that you kerf under and come down and try to get it not to just pop and drop straight, but where it kinda tries to pop out away from ya(even if it doesn't pop out away, it tries). Then, this put on a horizontal can allow something to jump our over fence or miss plants at base etc. when felling.


thanks spidey and squishy...call me skuuled....
 
Except me and Spydie are talking about two different things. Stumpjumping is a term I remember from treespacing. One cut right through, twisting the bar near the end to shoot the butt in one direction and cause the rest of the tree to (obviously) fall the other direction. Fast with limited direction control but in that setting not a big concern. Also really easy to throw your chain.:D
 
nother advantage to long bars, just spin the sucker back on and get back to work! no tools
 
Except me and Spydie are talking about two different things. Stumpjumping is a term I remember from treespacing. One cut right through, twisting the bar near the end to shoot the butt in one direction and cause the rest of the tree to (obviously) fall the other direction. Fast with limited direction control but in that setting not a big concern. Also really easy to throw your chain.:D

Cut with the top of your bar when you do it and you will have a hard time throwing a chain.
 
Top of the bar? I think you mean the bottom. I've always found it much easier to throw your chain while using the top of the bar. When you're in a high stem count block, throwing chains is par for the course. Not a matter of if but a matter of when.
 
Top of the bar? I think you mean the bottom. I've always found it much easier to throw your chain while using the top of the bar. When you're in a high stem count block, throwing chains is par for the course. Not a matter of if but a matter of when.

No, I mean the top. You are cutting as the chain is moving away from you pushing the saw back instead of throwing the chain when it catches. While brushing and stump jumping I figure this method to be about 10:1 better than cutting with the bottom of the bar. This method and a tight chain keeps me going.
 
im with squish, if your cutting with the top and it binds, then the chain still has to go around the tip, thats where the derailing takes place
 
I agree with squish and Willie. I throw more chain on wood cutting with the top of the bar.. However in brush, and I am talking the twisted springy nasty type, when reaching into the brush with the saw and cutting with the lower part of the tip of the bar, I throw them more also. Reason being that the brush springs back and kicks the chain derailing it at the sprocket tip.
 
Good for you then. Cause you know, it's not like I spaced trees for a couple of years or anything.:roll:

Throwing chains was not a big issue for me but it was part of the job, happened to anyone who was moving fast enough to make a buck.

When cutting with the top of the bar as Willie said if your chain gets derailed it flys off the tip. Cutting with the bottom of the bar if your chain gets derailed it gets 'guided' back onto the sprocket by the plastic guides.
 
Plastic guides??

Your wimpy little Stihl's are held together with plastic chain guides??:P
 
I brought this up a time or two befor and was rediculed to no end.
I see it all the time.
Its not that big of a deal.
The normal mode is to use a very very big tractor.The reason you dont cut it, is to hopefully get the stump and all.Hitch on a giant bull line or a cable about 20 feet up hook to trac hoe and take off .
Works everytime...
I was uncomforatable with this at first but after seeing so many put down . Its no big deal.Contractor trick.
We used a bull dozer to pull over a heavy leaner that was partially up rooted.
I took a pic of it and remember Burnham gave me a proper lashing.
Its good to have some follow through and a fast moving pull.Then you dont get any side fall.
Most ive seen by the time the tree hits the ground as the cable is tight and we just continue to pull the stump and all on to where ever we want it.
By tieing low , you lose leverage but the cable comes taunt very quickly and you get the stump out without pulling forward very far.;)
Ok let the lashing began, or do me a favor, just forget i wrote this.:D
It wont work . Dark's nutz.
 
I brought this up a time or two befor and was rediculed to no end.
I see it all the time.
Its not that big of a deal.[...]

You're talking about clearing though right? We've done it with excavators, either pushing or pulling the trees down and getting the stumps with'em.

But he said the guy used a backcut which probably means he wasn't going for the stump.

I'm frequently surprised by how little some people who regularly fall trees know about using a hinge... alot of'em don't even know the concept. Most of the think it's all about how hard you pull the tree and don't give any thought to making good cuts.
 
Yes mostly clearing.But ,i did do one residential job i would have never attempted without seeing alot of pull overs.It worked so well, i did use a tiny back scratch as well.:roll:
We got stump and all though.
Ive never seen this work done on anything giant.
Our oaks are rarely over 80 feet tall and usually about 4 foot DBH,at most.
Ive heard it reffered to as the Alabama method .
The first guy i saw use it was from Ranburn Alabama.
He well knew hinge methods, but only used hinges in tight areas, or on bigger trees.
 
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