No Face

[NeTree]

When chunking as in your avatar, I don't really bother with a face either most of the time... just a quick little kerf cut into the underside so it doesn't tear like that.

 

[TGCIII]

sorry but i want my work to come off the cut excactly when i intend it too. if it strips off like ur avatar i didn't do it right. thats fine if im tied in elsewhere and the tree is alive but i normally i cut dead trees and in dead stuff ,it dont strip brother, it splits. take it for what its worth, aint no smile for that one i promise

 

[sawinredneck]

I've always made at least a kerf cut. On small Oaks 10" max, I make a small kerf cut, then a back cut and push the tree over on the hinge. Not right, but it works.
No face at all, I just can't see that being a good thing! I hope it's a serious piece of equipment, I am having visions of a half ton pickup flying through the air as the tree springs the other direction!

 

[stehansen]

I've never done it, so I don't really know the consequences of doing it like that.

 

[MasterBlaster]

No, it was a logging tractor.

 

[Old Monkey]

Hey Butch do you think he pulled it any farther from its lean than you could have with a face cut and a tractor to pull it over?

 

[MasterBlaster]

I woulda used a narrow face, myself.

 

[cory]

No, it was a logging tractor.

What's that, a skidder?

 

[MasterBlaster]

Yup, sorry...

 

[Old Monkey]

Narrow face? After the face closes the hinge breaks and your ability to pull it against its lean ends.

 

[SkwerI]

Yup, if I have something that has to swing a long way around then I'm going to have a notch wide enough to keep the hinge from closing until after the obstacle is cleared. It doesn't have to be deep, but wide is good.

 

[NeTree]

As Brian said, I want a notch/hinge that will get the tree well-committed to the desired direction before it cuts loose.

 

[TGCIII]

in my eyes it about the hold that the upper side of hinge has. no matter how wide or narrow the face, its if u let that hinge work. the saw and the hinge is no better than the man behind it. if u got the insight to understand the situation then u also have the power to correct it. in a certain amount of time of course

 

[TGCIII]

oh well then it is what it is and thanks for allowing me to voice my opinion. M.B. u keep on keepin on hats off to u

 

[Paul B]

good post what does your username stand for ? TGCIII?

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i think this is something that worx some in specific woods, not too brittle, fairly elastic and alive. i've climbed for a guy that would do this. Sometimes just rig, cut, flex with truck(with no one near tree so problems less problematic), buck by self. i saw him topping top 2/3 like that one time when i was pulling up; he was just climbing down and on way to truck. i did it some on ground, and in tree especially for flexing into rope (where rope took the load over at some point). But always trusted a hinge more, and thought i could do more with it, especially without power pull. My buddy still probably does pretty well with it though. dutch/kerf is different somewhat, no hold/tension fibre at end for the potentially slower, softer landings.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

My business partner does it a lot and I have issues with it .. He is changing his ways and is more into production (ie:getting the thing on the ground) than I.. I like a nice face cut with a lot of control. Now I have also done this and never had the barber chair. I will often make a small kerf cut to prevent the barber chair in case ... but I more often birds mouth cut a leaner to fell it. He is gettin better at not just one cutting the fell. I have been on him.... Also he mostly does it on small leaners 12 inch or less. I dont like the lack of control of the fall nor do I like the hung up hinge/split for clean up cutting... So I stay pretty safe in my cuts for safety and convenience... And I like to see how far I can stretch the fall into degrees from lean ... I love when you can make them dance to 30-40 degrees of the lean ..

 

[top hopper]

The whole purpose of a face is direction. Gunning.

Without one you have no control where it will go.

 

[squisher]

Exactly.

I have used the no face cut before. Reserved for trees small enough I can just push them over where I want them to go. Anything bigger than that gets a proper notch.

 

[Stumper]

No face on things bigger than 8-10 inches is very unwise-No advantages but several potential problems.

 

[sotc]

ive pulled over a few short fat stubs like that before. they seem to roll off which ever direction has the most weight. id like to see this guy do his thing as i might learn something but untill then ill stick to face cuts

 

[squisher]

His reasoning was it was okay because he was using the chain to control the barberchair, which I gotta say did it perfectly.

What sort of chain set-up? Did the tree barberchair badly/violently? And where was it tied off? How high? My thoughts being that if it was tied off quite high and pulled on really hard if there was any kind of weak part in the tree it could potentially fail before it pulled over with no face.

If the tree was so green that it could pull right over with no hinge against a lean and then not come off the stump. I would think that the same fell could have been done with alot less force with a proper undercut and backcut.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Face for sure (with a Humboldt ) and a bore cut if it's a bad leaner.

 

[stig]

You have no sideways control at the final part of the cut, if you don't have a face.
The chain however, is something I use a lot.
Got the idea from GB's poster , back when that came out.
It gives you a chance to leave a hell of a hinge, which in some species like ash, would mean a barberchair for sure.
I'll also use it when cutting large tops out of hardwood trees in one piece. A self locking logging chain over and under the cut, takes most of the nervousnes out of the situation.

 

[vl2007]