Needle Blight, desperately need advice

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mx599

Treehouser
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I hope you guys do not mind non-professionals here.

I have been struggling with Blight on some smaller pines and feel like I am mostly holding at bay and not eradicating it. Approx 12 ft height 6" dia trunks. I have not always timed the applications the best, but there is more to story.

I have a giant tree on property I believe it is Ponderosa Pine. Over 60 ft tall and huge trunk. This has not had fungicide treatment yet like the smaller ones and I had always been keeping tabs on it but now I feel like I let attention lapse and I am sad I will lose this old established tree. I feel like it got bad quick and I am ashamed I didn't catch it faster. I now have access to a construction lift and a backpack type leaf blower -like sprayer that I think will be excellent to use. I can get up towards top in basket and blow the fungicide.


One of my main questions is our Denver, Colorado weather is sometimes very erratic. I was under impression application in May and then repeat in 6 weeks in June was a good plan. This does not seem to be helping. We sometimes have warm spells much sooner than May.

I don't want this tree to die 😔

I don't care about cost of fungicide. I have the lift and blower at no cost. Would there be any great harm in blasting the tree monthly from say Feb through July/August? I really feel like the May and June follow-up is just not cutting it with ups and downs in weather.

I don't want to lose my tree, can anyone give some advice and a plan?

thank you
 
Welcome! I don't know a thing about it, but perhaps consulting a local arborist would be the way to go. Get advice from someone in your immediate area that can look at the trees in question. It'll cost some money, but if you really care about the trees, it'll give the best results.
 
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I have not really had luck with local arborists. If you're not corporate account, they're not interested.

It's almost like I need to try to contact a college or something. I feel like I have the tools to do what I need to but need to know some advice as I mentioned. I don't know.
 
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lxskllr said:
Maybe your local ag extension. I don't know if this is the right track, but a search gave me this...

Field Offices - Extension

Field Extension Websites These county, area and regional Extension offices have their own web sites. For field offices not listed below, see the complete list of all Extension offices.
extension.colostate.edu extension.colostate.edu
Click to expand...
thank you! I was just about to ask you what extension office is. I will look into this.

Maybe I need to google isolated things like is anti fungal generally safe to environment and tree and then just keep applying it often if I cannot get any concrete help from anywhere.
 
I'm not an arborist, but I'd be cautious about over applying treatment. Sometimes more isn't better, and can be harmful. The extension office should be able to point you in the right direction. Might be a multi step process to get what you need, but you should be able to find something definitive.
 
Post pictures of the full tree and needles close up.

We see a lot of Dothistroma and Diplodia tip blight in Montana.

You are so far away from the disease cycle to spray fungicides in February, you’d be wasting your money, and putting fungicides out there for nearly zero benefit. Furthermore you do not want to spray fungicides if you have snow on the ground.
 
The first step is to accurately diagnose what pathogen you are dealing with. A local certified arborist can help you with this.

The second step is to determine what product to use and determine the the application timing. If it is a foliar fungal issue that you are dealing with, then the application period is typically going to start around bud break. The label on the product will tell you this information, as well as the rate, intervals between applications, and total applications.

As Tom just said, the infection period in the spring is when these treatments are timed. Spraying at any other time of the year is a waste. Think of the fungicide as shield. It is applied to the needles of the tree to prevent spores from inoculating and infecting the needles. It is a physical barrier. The timing of first application of the fungicide is really important, making sure you protect the needles BEFORE the spores are present. The subsequent applications are to maintain the shield during the rest of the infection period. Often time the application intervals are between 7-14 days.
 
Pics please. Full tree, trunk branches, needles, in good lighting, and in detail.

Ponderosa will drop needles in drought conditions, and for a variety of other reasons. What makes you think this is a fungal issue in the first place?

To join the chorus, contact a local arborist.
 
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  • #14
Okay guys, sorry about delay and I absolutely appreciate the help. The initial delay I didn't even know I got all these replies. Then we had a cold snap and snow and it became less of a mental stress. And life got in my way.

With regard to arborists, I know that this is your livelihood to some...so please, I mean no disrespect to you and your field. (I did do FFA Forestry competition state and national!!)

I have tried local arborists and unfortunately they do not want to be bothered unless corporate account and/or I simply cannot afford them. I gave an honest effort on that front, I really did.

Regarding correct diagnosis, I believe we think it has been Dothistroma I have been battling for 3-4 yrs now. You might ask, have I made headway? I feel like hard to know. These are 4 smaller pines and 2 could be doing better. And what is headway? Maybe some success is not eradication and merely keeping it at bay? i don't know, frustrating. On these 4 smaller trees I could be a bit better on timing application and I now have a better back pack sprayer that will help me be better. With regard to the giant tree, I have not tried treatment yet

Treatment - I have used Camelot- 0 by sepro in big expensive jug. Blue and I think copper based? I have also used Daconil

** please stand by, going to log in on cellphone so I can try to upload photos now, I hope everyone is still around**
 
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Here is the large tree, It was difficult to get close up of needles as I just wanted to get some response and pics for you guys. I can work on getting closer shot. Below is a close-up on smaller pine tree and I figured the disease was probably the same. With regard to drought, I think I am pretty good about supplemental water. I don't know? I am open to suggestions of course

20250226_144553.jpg 20250226_144634.jpg 20250226_144705.jpg
 
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this is smaller, different pine tree on property that was easier to get a quick close-up

20240722_201013.jpg
 
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Dothistroma Needle Blight AKA Red Band Needle Blight.

Find a licensed pesticide applicator who sprays trees. Probably will take 300-400psi from a skid to hit the top.

You may want to tarp your house. Fungicides can stain.

2 Applications of contact fungicide generally performed after 1-1.5" of needle growth followed with the second application 2 weeks later.

The first application is timed as the disease becomes active, protecting existing growth.

The second application will protect the new growth (and existing growth again.)

Dothistroma is prevalent here in Scotch, Austrian, and Ponderosa Pines.

Treating this disease is a war, not a battle. Expect to spray annually if you want to keep the tree.
 
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