MS201T

I'd imagine with that modification it increased the surface area open by about plus 200 percent over original .

I've never seen a 201 but I assume the muffler is akin to the 200 .That being the case with the baffle plate screen in place the only outlet would be the rearward slot in the muffler .With the plate removed you get another exit hole .

Perhaps some alteration of that rearward hole to increase the size would be of benefit .

I did exactly same with one of my 200's but with the baffles removed plus other alterations I can't honestly say it helped or not .
 
Tree Reb said:
Squisher, from what I've heard you need to lean them off a bit.

Not sure about changing the timing on a work saw, but he gets it going. Muffler and screen seems enough.8)
Click to expand...

Well that sure looks more like it!!!! I'll frig with it over the winter. If anyone mods their muffler up maybe post a pic or two please so a neanderthal like myself might finger it out.

How in the hell do you advance the timing like that? Is it hard?
 
You'd either have to slot out the coil or file an off set key .

You have to figure the circumferance of the circle ,being the outside of the flywheel and divide it into degrees then move the coil accordingly in opposite direction of rotation .In other words "trick "the thing to make it thinks it's on stock timing if you move the coil .

If you move the flywheel by an offset key you do so by moving it ahead in direction of rotation again kind of a trick .

Again I have no idea on a 201 what is going on .However on an 020/200 the stock timing is 24.7 to 32. 5 degrees ahead which I assume to mean it's a self advancing coil but found nothing to substanciate that in my reading . Purely an assumption .At 7.4 to 1 comp ratio it could be assumed it would benefit from some advance running at speed .

BTW most more modern larger Stihls are 27 degree advance .
 
That video is from bsneling at AS, he fancies himself as a saw guru but wont port a saw with a limited coil, has to put a larger carb on about every saw he wants to hot rod and fiddles with the timing on everything.
I'm not a fan, and I take his work with a grain of salt.
 
Limited experience with it (one saw), but getting results by putting on a larger carb is tricky. Running too rich can be a problem that is difficult to adjust out.
 
I agree, he likes to build 346's and put 357 carbs on them, he hates the 5100 because he hasn't figured out how to tune a saw that isn't turning 17k rpm out of the cut, it goes on..............
 
1st day cutting 200T

Used my new 200T today first time. BTW this one was made in Germany. Limbed a large pine from the ground to about 8 ft (wow). Cut down to smaller oaks and limbed them. Saw handled real nice.
Went thru two tankfuls, by the third tank she seemed to be roaring a bit louder. Great little saw.

Gary in CT
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #358
Where in CT you from, Gary?

I used my 200T all last week. I'm sticking to my claim that the 201T has better feeling doing the one handed thang!
 
sawinredneck said:
That video is from bsneling at AS, he fancies himself as a saw guru but wont port a saw with a limited coil, has to put a larger carb on about every saw he wants to hot rod and fiddles with the timing on everything.
I'm not a fan, and I take his work with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...

Well I am glad I am not the only that feels this way. I saw that vid over at AS too. The muffler mod I could see but advancing the timing didn't seem like it would be a smart move.

On the subject of advancing the the timing I am not too keen on that one. When I was having timing problems with my 064 the tech at the dealer said if I did run that saw for very long provided I could get it started it would overheat and cook the engine within an hours time if your were doing some serious cuttting. I don't know jacking with the timing is one area of a saw I haven't explored.
 
ae6be5d8-250f-0a8a.jpg
ae6be5d8-2527-5c19.jpg

Not exactly clean. But better than the first trainwreck.

There is a pin that has to be removed on the high screw. Once out it will allow the needle to be adjusted. I'm going to run a few tanks thru tomorrow. It seemed much stronger on my test run for a few cuts. Sounds better as well!!
 
Scott, did you see my earlier post about cutting the screen insert in half rather than removing it altogether?
The outlet modification looks good! :thumbup:
 
I don't think that if my suspicions are correct that if in fact the 200 has a self advancing coil that it would be a good idea to gain further advance .It should self advance to 32.5 degree advance and that certainly should be enough .

BTW I did some work on the super bee and was pleasently surprised .That domed piston is as clean as any 200 I've ever seen and the plug was a nice light brown color . I suspect it might have a had a bad clutch side seal which I changed but it got dark before I could test it .
 
Now here's what I get on advancing the timing .On a lower compression engine it can help .On a higher compresson it can hinder .

Couple examples :Lombard al-42 series /Comanga .Old saw patterned after an XL-12 Homelite .Relatively low compression 35 degrees advance .Mac 10 series rather high comp 26 advance ,most Stihls ,high comp ,27 advance .

I don't know where the 201 is at on the comp.High low don't know .Nor does it have a self advance coil or fixed ? Obviously the 200 at 7.4 would be low comp .
 
Brendon

I'm living in Berlin ,CT. Never used the 201t. Just bought the 200t based largely on what I read on the forums. I have used the 192t which feels nicely balanced. I have both the 192t & 200t
 
I've been running the MS241c for a week now.
While it doesn't take very high RPMs it has an amazing amount of torque for such a small saw.

I talked to my dealer about it ( he asked for feedback on the saw, since mine is only the second one sold here) and was told that it automatically makes the mixture richer and advances the ignition, when pressed hard.

My guess would be that the next T-model we'll see from Stihl will have a little c after the model number.

If that means it runs as well as the 241c, I'm cool with that.
 
A thread or a post made by someone on another site also sung praises about the ms241c. I have heard that those saws are only available on your side of the big pond, Stig and are not available in the American market and they never will be. I think they have an emissions issue because of the EPA.

I have a couple of those old 024's. I am assuming the ms241c is a modern day version of that saw in regards to engine displacement and weight ect. ect. . I thought Sthil got rid of the 024 line completely?? They are nice light saws for doing limbing and small tree and brush cutting.

AL, Just curious as to how your coming up with all these timing numbers. I can relate to the fins on a flywheel representing degrees of the timing circle. After that I am lost.
 
Thanks Jay, I must have been having a brain fart. I have used those degree wheels for porting. I just didn't put 2&2 together for timing the flywheel and coil.
 
But that just measures static or mechanical timing, this is a change in ignition timing. Not sure how it's done on a saw, but I can try to explain it on a car for you.
Cars have a form of ignition advance, vacuum, mechanical or electronic. You start with a base timing, typical Chevy V-8 is set at 8degs initial timing. As the motor speeds up it adds more timing, advance. A lot of drag racers don't care about initial timing, they set it at full RPM getting all the advance in, and set it around 34-38 degs total advance. This is what Al was referring to with the advancing coil on the 200t. It starts out small, so you can start it, then as RPM increases it advances a certain amount.
 
I have not done it, but why can't you simply mark the stock flywheel position with a degree wheel in relation to tdc or bdc or however you calibrate it, and then advance it the number of degrees that you want? Hope I didn't give Larry a bum steer!
 
Those numbers I gave were per the specs on those praticular models of saws .

On points type system on a saw to check the timing you use a timing wheel and check just when the points open .Theoretically on a solid state coil it would be when the stator pieces align perfectly center with the magnets in the flywheel .That would be static timing or not running condition .

One type self advance coil uses the threshhold voltage of the pulstaing DC current of the primary or low voltage portion of the coil .The faster the engine turns the sooner in degrees of rotation from top dead center this threshhold is reached which it turn forward biases a tyrister which acts in leau of the points or like a switch and fires the high voltage coil producing the spark .Thus as the RPMS vary so can the timing much like an automobile .Keep in mind not all solid state coils are self advancing .
 
I found this vid of a modified 200t. it says having a "machined cylinder and pop up piston". I assume that means thinning the base of the cylinder for a pop-up, with or without the gasket, i.e. higher compression. Looks like some pretty hard wood being cut there, and that the saw is a hot little runner. Wonder if he lightened the piston too?

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/DG9UmJ2hegg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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