Load securement for on road transport

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2004 2500 ram, or my C7000
the dodge has a 5.9 cummins, NV5600, I tow heavier all the time

as for tongue weight, we actually measured about 2" of sag in the suspension with the excavator loaded
What does that mean about tongue weight?

I don't know where the COG is on excavators, specifically the one in question.


Might be fine. Might be tongue heavy.
Could be tongue-light depending on the squat of the trailer.



I get that mostly people guess at tongue weight, and measuring is commonly difficult without a measuring hitch.

I have a Class A. Used to drive a 33,000 bucket truck trailering a BB250 ( Not heavy) or a Garrett 16 log skidder on an equipment trailer (8 wheels).
 
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  • #28
that amount of tongue weight (no clue the numbers) is about perfect, my trailer axles sit pretty far back and I have 2ft to move the machine forward to add weight if needed
ive had it so tongue heavy one could barely turn the jack to dis connect and it pulled just fine, this truck is way under rated

COG seems to be about center on the slew ring, maybe a foot back from that if you put the counterweight over the blade
 
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  • #30
You can drive a 10,001+ trailer without a cdl if you stay under 26001 gross, I believe.
not in tennessee, I could get a 5x8 behind a civic but as long as the tag on the tongue says 11K I gotta get either a class A or theres like an endorsement on the class D for trailer-heavy loads

its really dumb

funny thing is, I can legally drive my bucket truck, air brakes, chipper and all on a normal class D as long as im not making money with it (so most days it leaves the yard lol)
 
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  • #31
back to my original questions

think I should stay with 5 20ft chains, or cut some down shorter so im not dragging all that around 2-4 times a day? maybe a few 8 footers would do good?
or just deal with the extra length but have long chains when needed?
 
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  • #34
can't say I don't like it!

I wonder, how tight does it get the chains? generally I get them pretty tight, wheeled machines not counted tho, never had to chain one down, always tracks so i just go till it almost plays a tune about like pre tensioning a rope, just have a feel for it
 
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  • #35
Pretty common around here to have four short chains for an excavator. 6' or 8', whatever works.
I figure since from each tiedown on the machine to tiedown on my trailer being ~3ft, I could get away with 5 footers and one 8ft to go over the bucket
 
Part is what holds the machine safely.

Part is what keeps police from wanting a closer look.

Hopefully you're getting both.

Even without any tickets, getting stopped by police costs you money.

Nobody here wants you or any of us to get fines.




For heavy machinery on a dedicated trailer, personally, I would go with shortened chains and binders.
 
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  • #37
Part is what holds the machine safely.

Part is what keeps police from wanting a closer look.

Hopefully you're getting both.

Even without any tickets, getting stopped by police costs you money.

Nobody here wants you or any of us to get fines.




For heavy machinery on a dedicated trailer, personally, I would go with shortened chains and binders.
exactly, I may still get pulled over for inspection since its a dump trailer and you cannot see that the machine is tied down without looking inside the trailer

ive had some realllly sketchy looking log loads, chained down but you wouldnt know how well unless you were there when it got tied down and dont get any trouble from police, they dont seem to care about much here but I still try and do things right

worst comes to worst and you get in a wreck, having an unsecured load is one less ticket to get


BE THIS GUY (just dont have a trailer that falls off)
1693799884546.png
 
back to my original questions

think I should stay with 5 20ft chains, or cut some down shorter so im not dragging all that around 2-4 times a day? maybe a few 8 footers would do good?
or just deal with the extra length but have long chains when needed?
Have you ever had a situation where a chain is a better option than rope for pulling? I use my binder chains for binding a trunk together every now and again, skidding logs over gravel, real abuse situations. Multitasking of tools on hand.
 
back to my original questions

think I should stay with 5 20ft chains, or cut some down shorter so im not dragging all that around 2-4 times a day? maybe a few 8 footers would do good?
or just deal with the extra length but have long chains when needed?
I have 16-20’ and 2-4’ chains. The 2-4’ have a grab hook on one end, slip on the other. The shorts get used the most for sure.
 
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  • #41
Have you ever had a situation where a chain is a better option than rope for pulling? I use my binder chains for binding a trunk together every now and again, skidding logs over gravel, real abuse situations. Multitasking of tools on hand.
yea I use chains sometimes for rough work where rope would get cut, although trying to phase that out entirely, chains shock load worse than rope generally
 
yea I use chains sometimes for rough work where rope would get cut, although trying to phase that out entirely, chains shock load worse than rope generally
In fourteen years of doing trees professionally I have learned that is something that will never be phased out. Just like trying to keep a schedule. Ain’t happening.
 
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  • #43
Just like trying to keep a schedule. Ain’t happening.
dont get me started on that

I can say "we are gonna be on the job at 7am" and there isnt a snowballs chance in hell that we leave the shop by 8
 
Jobs like this, rope is not going to work out well for you.

 
dont get me started on that

I can say "we are gonna be on the job at 7am" and there isnt a snowballs chance in hell that we leave the shop by 8
You might give them a leave the shop time, not a get to the job time. You plan and perform/ delegate the prep and figure the commute time, shop to job, no stops.

$.02
 
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  • #47
You might give them a leave the shop time, not a get to the job time. You plan and perform/ delegate the prep and figure the commute time, shop to job, no stops.

$.02
im the guy that chats way toooo much, if I showed up at the job instead of being at the shop then everyone would be on time

so I just play ahead, I know I mean 2 hours later than I say so it works out sorta
Bro I’m talking days not hours. Shit we can make up an hour easily.
I try not to do that, although it seems with this heat most of my day jobs take 2 or 3 days
 
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  • #48
I dont do much that rope wouldnt work for, but ive always got 40-100 ft of chain with me, try not to need it but sometimes there isnt much of a way around it

I usually make due with what I have, worked well the last 4 or so years
 
Regarding the heat, Coolvests for the win!

They pay for themselves quickly. Have a chest freezer in the shop and freeze blocks of ice for a cooler. In your heat and humidity, you will like them.
 
I cut my ratchet straps to size for securing my loader. You can cut down your chains also, but I would recommend waiting a while until you are 100% sure you are happy with your loading and strapping procedures. Master links are available if you ever need to lengthen a chain as well.
 
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