Husqvarna 562xp

[OTGBOSTON]

I picked up a 562 right before the storm, early reports from the field are that the guys love it.

 

[Tucker943]

Ill tell you what shocks me. This thing stays warm for a long time without needing to be choked. If Stihl could add something remotely close to this to their lineup they'd be a great saw company again.

 

[canadiantreeman]

I just picked one up today. I traded a half wrap 261 and knocked some dollars down. I was fed up with the 261 and wanted a good in tree blocking saw, and I think this will work well as a light felling saw. I was forced to work a recent lot clearing job with a 660 on pine no bigger than 20". Silly. So, I demoed this saw, bucked up some hardwood and liked the way it ran and felt. 24 " bar for me...

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sh8VPSr6_18" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Maximalist]

Your personal opinion - it's better than 361?

 

[canadiantreeman]

I have only run the 361 briefly, but the reviews I have read and heard from other pros suggest that there is little comparison to the 562. I'm interested to see if I run into any problems, or if it stays strong. I've got a few jobs next week where I'll put it through the paces.

 

[Tucker943]

562 spanks the 361. With a leather belt.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

My experience with the Husky in that class is the torque out guns the Sthil. Our Husky 460 will out cut my Sthil 036 stock all day long. It just grunts right through the wood.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Stephen, if I had an 036 to begin with, i would look for a junker 034 to stick the 036 jug and piston on after some modifications, and then if there is a saw with more torque, probably at some place beyond Mars. I think it is what you need for your big Oaks. You get the reliability of that era of Stihl as well.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Don't get me wrong.. I would take my 036 over that Husky 460 any day up in the tree. But if you are on the ground thinning trees up to about 24" or bucking them up, the Husky 460 will out perform it. I could mod the 036 and do it a service and make it even better. When I am on the ground, I'll just grab the 044 or 046 anyway. 036 is actually one pof my favorite saws in a thinning job or when you only need to go a little bigger than the 200T up in the tree.

 

[HolmenTree]

I just picked one up today. I traded a half wrap 261 and knocked some dollars down. I was fed up with the 261 and wanted a good in tree blocking saw, and I think this will work well as a light felling saw. I was forced to work a recent lot clearing job with a 660 on pine no bigger than 20". Silly. So, I demoed this saw, bucked up some hardwood and liked the way it ran and felt. 24 " bar for me...

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sh8VPSr6_18" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Nice demonstration video there Dylan but it would look more impressive for speed if you weren't cutting 2 logs at the same time,
I can tell the bar nose was cutting the 2nd log that was up against the log you were cutting.

Jay, I have run 036 Stihls in my day and it doesn't even come close to the 562XP .

 

[woodworkingboy]

You might well be correct, Willard, comparing an 036 to a 562. I have never run a stock 036 that I can recall. I guess I can picture it however, as I had an 038 and now an 038 magnum, only muffler modded. I scored an old 034, and after reading Dean at Hotsaws, describing certain possibilities, stuck on a new 036 p and c that I extensively modified. It isn't very problematical to switch out the p and c. It has some awesome torque, and given the weight, and without a very firm hold on it, can have some mean kickback potential when you go to plunge into a tree. To be honest, a little fearful before getting used to it, and I think I have just about at one time or another run everything Stihl has made bigger up the line, with not much scary. Mindful, but not scary. I can't say that a 562 hasn't more torque, but I would be very skeptical when considering the 036 I know, though admittedly not a stock one. It is a very aggressive saw, without a doubt. I would think it would have to be toned down if such an animal was made available to the general consumer market, it wouldn't fly with novices.

 

[canadiantreeman]

I was cutting into the pine log behind the locust...but even after a stern talkin to that locust just didn't want to budge. I was impressed by the lack of vibration in the saw as the tip sunk in the pine log and then made contact with the kickback portion of the tip. That honey locust is hard as a rock, especially a year dried...I don't know if there is a good comparison to a prairie tree. Dead elm or ash maybe. Anways, I was impressed given that it grunted through that tough locust wood so well AND removed a decent slice outta the pine behind it. I'll be hefting it in tree on Mon. or Tues. next week and will let you know how it feels as a blocking saw.

 

[HolmenTree]

Anways, I was impressed given that it grunted through that tough locust wood so well AND removed a decent slice outta the pine behind it.

That is very impressive.

Run it through a fresh cut 24" cottonwood and post it on YouTube for the masses who don't know any different....... now that would be impressive

 

[HolmenTree]

You might well be correct, Willard, comparing an 036 to a 562. I have never run a stock 036 that I can recall. I guess I can picture it however, as I had an 038 and now an 038 magnum, only muffler modded. I scored an old 034, and after reading Dean at Hotsaws, describing certain possibilities, stuck on a new 036 p and c that I extensively modified. It isn't very problematical to switch out the p and c. It has some awesome torque, and given the weight, and without a very firm hold on it, can have some mean kickback potential when you go to plunge into a tree. To be honest, a little fearful before getting used to it, and I think I have just about at one time or another run everything Stihl has made bigger up the line, with not much scary. Mindful, but not scary. I can't say that a 562 hasn't more torque, but I would be very skeptical when considering the 036 I know, though admittedly not a stock one. It is a very aggressive saw, without a doubt. I would think it would have to be toned down if such an animal was made available to the general consumer market, it wouldn't fly with novices.

Jay I have a 61cc 038AV that I modified 30 yrs ago for racing [with a little help from Sam Madsen BTW]
Milled cylinder base, 4 finger ports and a carb from a 056 Mag. That saw will easily outcut my stock 92cc 066Mag dual outlet.
I see guys have already figured out how to mod these new 562XP's and they torque through a log like crazy. But I don't need that, I like it how it runs stock. If I need more power I'll grab my 372, 272 or 395, but that's always short lived though ha ha I quickly end up with the 562 in my hands again.

 

[woodworkingboy]

It seems like a great saw. Have to admit, a new saw would be nice for a change. My newest Husky threw a broken c clip into the cylinder. I figure it must have fallen into the crankcase and been shot up through the upper transfer, that is how the damage looks like it came about. The ring caught it and broke and destroyed the piston, and put a nice deep gouge all the way up the cylinder wall to the combustion chamber. What a waste, I had some work into the p and c and it always ran great.

 

[Magnus]

I once saw a part of a broben ring get snagged in port.
I know this saw had both clips in place and no extra.

Good thing about these fresh air saws is that they educate very well and give us lots of practice.

 

[Tucker943]

Anyone else's 562 let out a small but quick gag when you hit the throttle? mine does sometimes.....

 

[canadiantreeman]

Yes, I've noticed this as well. I recently took the saw to wreck some pine trees up at the mountain resort near town. About 1km elevation gain from here. It was -10 and the saw had a bitch of a time starting. Once it was started, it took a while to warm, and this little gag was noticeable prior to engaging in any cutting work.

Maybe the elevation or the cold effects the sensory equipment to a point where it requires a greater 'warm up' period that with other saws of lesser tech?

 

[Tucker943]

Ill go with that.

 

[Magnus]

Regardless of location and weather it should reset and be ready to run 100% after a couple minutes running.
Has it been serviced/updated in sale or service?
Report, report, report...

They (dealer, HVA USA and Sweden) must know there is a problem to correct.

 

[HolmenTree]

Well the chainsaw has now come the way of the automobile. Todays cars and trucks sure do run nice and reliable don't they?

Good for the dealers too, more business for them. That's the way it should be, most here on this forum own their own business so I'm sure you can all relate to this.

Easy way to reset your auto tune is rip split a block of firewood into 1/4 pie pieces for a few minutes. Make saw dust not noodle chips.

 

[Magnus]

It does not re-set then, Willard, just set...

Re-set/start over/clear memory you only do hooked up. This is needed before sale, each service etc. >New software editions pop up now and then...

 

[Tucker943]

Willard, do you find your saw behaves differently after you do that?

Mine is good and broken in now and just absolutely runs like a champ. I love it. I did a lot of cutting of spruce and fir yesterday and it was just an unbelievable tool. Now, we all know even the worst of saws do well in that kind of wood. That's a given. But take the smoothness of the 562, and cut wood that is smooth cutting to begin with and its like you aren't even using a chainsaw. More poor 372 doesn't even get touched anymore. Honestly, Ive put down every saw but my 562. If I absolutely MUST use a bigger saw, I will. But I avoid it like a dirty needle.

 

[HolmenTree]

It does not re-set then, Willard, just set...

Re-set/start over/clear memory you only do hooked up. This is needed before sale, each service etc. >New software editions pop up now and then...

Thanks Magnus, it's all new technology to me.

Willard, do you find your saw behaves differently after you do that?

Chris when I bought my 562 late last summer I didn't follow the manuals instructions of running it WOT out of the box for the first 5 minutes. I just started cutting with it normalily. A week later it flooded when I tried to start it while warm after sitting for 5-10 minutes, I didn't use the choke. So I had hold the throttle wide open and throw start it [like the old timers used to do]
Got it going then ripped a block like I said earlier. Never had a problem since.
Depending on the month your 562 was assembled at the factory determines alot of the programing these saws have. I know the early models had issues and needed a recall as we all know about.

 

[Magnus]

These adapt or learn if you will...
They accumulate info from each run and use it next start. All it "learns" will be used in process.

Showing saw how it is when it is right is most important. It gives it a point of reference.