How to use the GRCS

[emr]

As you know, we just purchased our GRCS and we have used it a couple of times and it is pretty sweet. I wanted to start a thread that will cut down on our learning curve. So this is what I think I know and how we have been using it. Please let me know if we are doing something wrong or if you have any other tips, applications to add.

So far we used the GRCS to lift a few small limbs, using natural crotches and some ArborPlex. We also used it as a drift line/winch to bring some limbs from over a rough area up to an open turf area. Again, we used natural crotch and the ArborPlex. I know its better to use blocks and double braids, but so far we have not had the chance.

We have the drill attachment but we have not had a chance to use it yet. Next week we are doing a removal at the bottom of a long, steep hill and we are planning on hooking the GRCS to a tree and winching logs up on a ball cart so we dont damage the turf at all. We will also be winching up the ball cart with a garbage can strapped to it filled with stump grindings. Has anyone tried this? I have never head of it, but I think it should work.

Besides that, I know you need to keep it strapped real tight to the trees when mounting, and that's about it. I do have some pads that I made out of an old bed liner mat that we wrap around the trunk of trees that we are not removing. Is that necessary? We would rather be to cautious than to have to explain to a customer why we damaged their tree.

Well, please chime in and I would really appreciate it.

 

[Altissimus]

...I have not had any problems mounting the winch on preservation trees as is ...Hard and Soft woods

 

[sotc]

Wow, extensive subject!

 

[TreeDimensional]

With many variables!

 

[FJR]

If you want to accelerate the learning curve then use it more often. Never had a problem damaging trees that are not being removed...

 

[MasterBlaster]

This is a Most Excellent Thread.

 

[emr]

I know there are many variables, but if you guys have some tips, even if it is for very specific scenarios, lets here them. And Fred, I will take your advice to heart and use it as much as possible.

 

[Altissimus]

...I have a nice collection of blocks and ropes ... makes the rigging schemes near endless ... I'm trying to get better at moving my lead block more to sweeten the line angles ....

 

[emr]

How many blocks do you usually use? Is it very common to use more than one or is one the most common?

 

[sotc]

To broad of a subject, watch some videos and ask more specific questions.
I will say, you shouldn't try winching through a natural crotch as a general rule, lowering through one is reasonable though


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[sotc]

Depends on the tree, usually one, often 2 sometimes more

 

[gf beranek]

The GRCS was developed by a Tree Man for a Tree Man. The epitome of need to invention.

 

[brendonv]

Natural crotch works, for small stuff obviously, just don't push the limit on big stuff through natural crotches cranking limbs.

I own two blocks, haven't needed much more really. Wait till you start winching large leaders/whole trees. Goddamn awesome feeling.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Where's Frans???

 

[TreeDimensional]

A block that lines up the rigging line to the fairlead (pigtail) is a real good idea. IMO

 

[FJR]

Its pretty much a must if your going to be cranking trees over with it.

 

[Old Monkey]

Ditch the Arborplex as soon as you can, it twists up way too much and goes square.

I would get at least two blocks, if not three.

I often put the first block ten feet above the GRCS so that the bull rope heads straight down through the top fair leads with a minimum of rubbing.

Flaking your lowering line into an empty trash can really helps manage longer ropes. If you are getting a lot of twisting pull your rope all the way to one end and then flake it back into the trash can.

When taking tops out have your rope man practice walking the line to the GRCS instead of letting the rope slide through his gloved hands. Walking the line towards the GRCS, as long as it doesn't put you below the piece coming down, gives a longer absorption of the force and makes life smoother for the climber.

You can tie off the climber to the GRCS and have someone belay him as he climbs up the spar. I spur up to the rigging point this way without a flipline and then clip in at the top.

You can tip tie branches, go back to the trunk, have the ropeman crank up a little bit, put a face pointing up toward the block, cut the back cut, then have the ground crank the branch up to vertical and then finish the cut. With the addition to a butt check line you can take that piece smoothly anywhere you want it to go.


You can also tie the line out past halfway on the branch, have the ropeman pull hard or crank it up just a hair, go back to the trunk, place a wide face cut that points sideways and just a little bit downward and then make your back cut until you have a nice even hinge. As the the ropeman slacks the line the branch swings down and to the side, even if the branch bends to the other direction. This cut when done correctly should move slowly until the piece is committed to the one side.

Be careful not to try to pull the line too hard when the line exits the pigtail any other direction than straight away from the drum. My guys broke the pigtail off the first time we used it.

Do not chunk wood down from the tree with the GRCS on the tree. At the very least remove the drum and put it in a safe place.

Be certain to watch your rigging spar when you are cranking a piece up. We tried to crank a piece at too flat of an angle and broke the rigging spar. A second block lower on the spar captured both pieces and no damage was done.

On an irregularly shaped trunk on a removal tree, you can use a saw to cut a slab off to make a flat surface for the GRCS to sit on.

When pulling the line back up to the climber, put a knot in the line to keep it from going through the block. Do not pull it up without the climber knowing you are doing it as with so little friction it very easily flies out of the blocks. If the climber is holding the line and you are pulling the end back up to him let gravity pull the last bit up to him or you will be frying his gloves and he will hate you.

If you need to flip the line to the climber, pull slack out until you can hold the line in the air, tie off the the GRCS side, don't throw the rope, start a belly in the line, swing it back an forth and then send the belly up to the climber. My guys still don't get this one. When they flip the line they throw it. Getting a belly in the line and then launching it can get a line to the climber even when they are a bit above the rigging point. I may have to break down and make a video of this one someday.


The rubber bumpers will tear after a bit. You can keep using them for a bit and then they can be replaced quite easily and affordably.

Don't drop a Volvo from a tree.

That's all I have right now. I hope something in this is helpful.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Meh. I'd have said more, but your post will do... for now.









Crikey, that's a Great Post, D Man.

 

[Cobleskill]

It sounds like you have a lot of experience, Darin. Goode might put you on as a consultant? What kind of manual do you get when you buy one?

 

[Altissimus]

....no manual provided , although Gregg does send a DVD w/unit .... I've always thought that GRCS Tee Shirt would go nicely with as well ....

 

[Altissimus]

... another variable is the use of other trees for for rig points ... keeps the the winch and ground worker out from under the load , often increases the quality of the top point (s) of the rig scheme by spreading the load out .... takes more line , block (s) , and time to set up .... other strong trees are quite handy .....

 

[sotc]

Darin knows how to type too

 

[emr]

Thanks guys. I have one specific question now. Do you have to use a block as a re-direct just above the GRCS or can you use a rescue pulley? Or maybe even a shackle? We only have two blocks and I could see using both of them up in the tree and not having one for down below. What would be our best option? We have several rescue pulleys, Several of the Petzl prussik minding pulleys, and several shackle. The pulleys are all rated above 8000lbs.

 

[SkwerI]

The redirect pulley above the GRCS isn't going to see much of a load (depending on the rope angle) so IMO a pulley would be a good choice for this application. A shackle would also work well as long as there isn't too much rope angle to create extra friction.

I also feel that in any lifting application or situations where there is no shock loading that pulleys can work as well as rigging blocks. But once you start dropping loads into the rigging then blocks are the way to go.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

When lifting branches with whatever means, assuming a straight branch (otherwise compensate) and rigging point plumb above the facecut, a horizontal cut and a perpendicular to the branch cut should form close to the proper angle of face cut to close the face when the piece if stood up. Same principle as with a crane. Getting your rigging point directly above you cut will be difficult as compared the the adjustability of the boom, so you will have to compensate.