How do you flush cut a large stump?

[Tucker943]

I firmly believe that what divides shit loggers and climbers from good ones is not speed in the task, but efficiency of movements. Ive seen guys race up a tree and spend the day racing around the same tree to get it down. Then comes the older guy that takes his times getting up, but wrecks the tree from there with very little extra movement. Same with loggers. I watched a guy cutting that was quick as hell but would hop from side to side and here and there while cutting. He was like a one man circus. Yes, he was quick about making the wood hit the ground, but not efficient about it in the least.

 

[old irish]

Absolutely right on.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Ya, coming from rock climbing, efficiency is super important. Holding on 20% more than necessary is an enormous waste. Holding on just enough not to fall off was the basic goal for me. Same thing about gripping a flipline or rope. When saws have no kickback potential in a particular cut, I approach it the same, hold on just enough to do what I want.

Micro-rests, too. If I'm rolling through a less-than-bar-length stump cut, I don't push with my arms, but rather my leg. Quick shifts of weight between saddle and spurs/ branches to rest parts of the body may not change the time it takes to do something overall, but you may just feel better at the end of the day.

 

[MasterBlaster]

"Economy of movement."

That's what I call it.

 

[cory]

It is so true, slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

 

[Mick!]

Yes, on a dismantle, no need to race to the top to set a line, do what you can on the way up, reduce the up/down stuff.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

To alap the stump, I bore in the cleanest area and turn around, keeping my bar as perpendicular to the bark as possible. The chain coming from inside blows off the surface of the bark by small bits which take away the dirt, settled here by the rain and small animals.
Before, I remove the most of the moss, grass and wine to avoid trapping the flying bits and grit under them.
That works well, I even take a smaller bar to keep the tip in the stump and to avoid digging the dirty bark on the other side.
I usually finish level with the kerf's beginning after my turn.
Except when the chain finds some hidden dirt pockets included between the buttress roots and start to cut out of the aimed path.

 

[Husabud]

Yes, on a dismantle, no need to race to the top to set a line, do what you can on the way up, reduce the up/down stuff.

You don't set a line first? I remember your ladder and spikes comment, but since my three foot fall and getting my hands tore up, I always set a line first.

 

[Mick!]

I meant set a line half way up and do some lower branches from there (if poss) then when they're done climb up to the top and do the rest from there. Sure, I always rope in, six broken ribs and a ten day stay in hospital is a recent memory.

 

[Husabud]

Ouch, yeah you got it. Hope you've recovered.

 

[Mick!]

Yeah, older stiffer, and I hope, a little wiser!

 

[TreeRhino]

i use a bar smaller than the stump by about a third. the bore in, level as possible and use the top of the bar, pushing with my leg. i usually am pretty close to matching on the far side and the chips in the cut keep the stump from pinching. not perfect, but usually works out pretty well