For clarification-
After watching the video I though I might clarify. The reason for strapping trees, or cutting as much wood as possible before making a cut that will release the tree is to prevent ripping or barber chair.
The only reason you need to do it is because you feel that your saw won't be able to cut enough wood before the tree starts to rip. If the tree is small and has minimal head lean, you may not need any special cutting technique, just cut as normal. With increases size or lean, you may have to cut some wood out of the backcut, leaving some wood to hold the tree until you are ready to release it. The amount of wood that needs cut depends on- lean, size of tree, hp of saw, chain speed, and chain condition. Additionally, if you have a poor (or some times a lack of) escape route and want to make damn sure it can't rip and kill you cause you can't get away.
I've done this alot on steep ground cutting big alders. The slopes may be upwards of 100%, extremely brushy, loose soil, and an all around pain to get away from the stump. In many units on the Oregon coast the ground is so terrible you have to establish foot holds on the ground to stay put, and moving one foot hold may lead to slipping off down the hillside a long way. That combined with hard leaning heavy alder is a recipe for disaster. If you try to run, you may slip and actually end up underneath the tree. On the big ones, say 24" or more, I make a face as deep as I can without being pinched, usually about 1/3. This face needs to be wide, and clean, with no kickers. Then, on the back cut, step around the off side and cut into the sap perpendicular to the face, and cut in about a bar width. In effect you are cutting the corner off, do this on both sides. This has made it so there is less wood in the back cut, so that you can cut in off quicker. Then make the back cut as normal.
Hope this helps. Wish I could draw a picture.