Hard head wedges.

Top looks unusual. I computed the angle of K&H 12" from specs found online, it came out to 6°. There's a lot of uncertainty there trusting found specs that people don't care that much about aside from general terms, and I can't measure mine cause it's at work, so hard to say how accurate that is.
 
Tip shouldn't affect the angle. If it's truly lower than competing wedges, it would be done by making the butt thinner. I think the only way to know for sure is to buy a couple and see what you think. Their current "sale" price isn't ridiculously more expensive than competing wedges.
 
I'd not be averse to having had a couple of those in my kit, back when such things mattered quite a bit to my well-being :).

@davidwyby Input from a smaller guy that had to carry his felling gear all over hell and gone (which I know is not your situation) ...any driver head over 5 pounds is superfluous to the job. Head speed is the be-all. You will be more accurate in your driving strikes if the driver is not overly heavy, imo. If you can't hit a wedge square with an axe poll, you need to find another job :D.

Again, high head speed with a decent amount of weight there, drives wedges to the best effect. Anything much lighter than 5 pounds is too light, and anything much heavier is too slow, besides being too difficult to carry through the woods.
 
Tip shouldn't affect the angle. If it's truly lower than competing wedges, it would be done by making the butt thinner. I think the only way to know for sure is to buy a couple and see what you think. Their current "sale" price isn't ridiculously more expensive than competing wedges.
Making the tip thicker would have the same effect as making the tail thinner
 
I don't think that's right. A thicker tip would give more lift faster. You're eliminating the (trivial in this case)lift you get from tip, and effectively "choking up" on the wedge. I'm guessing they just do it for durability purposes.
 
I'd not be averse to having had a couple of those in my kit, back when such things mattered quite a bit to my well-being :).

@davidwyby Input from a smaller guy that had to carry his felling gear all over hell and gone (which I know is not your situation) ...any driver head over 5 pounds is superfluous to the job. Head speed is the be-all. You will be more accurate in your driving strikes if the driver is not overly heavy, imo. If you can't hit a wedge square with an axe poll, you need to find another job :D.

Again, high head speed with a decent amount of weight there, drives wedges to the best effect. Anything much lighter than 5 pounds is too light, and anything much heavier is too slow, besides being too difficult to carry through the woods.
Yeah…


IMG_7837.jpeg
6lb 32”

Should have kept it shorter

Council fire axe. I think that’s what @MatthewMMeckley runs…but he’s younger and stronger

No matter. I’ll re hang it. I went down the axe rabbit hole and I have various weights and lengths from 3-6lb.

6 is nice cuz you don’t have to swing it fast. But 32” is better for splitting and chopping than banging wedges.
 
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"Swung this in anger"

I like your style David!

As I've said before, I put on my harness feeling like a night donning his armor.

Striding forth I wield my motor-sword to devastating effect. I slay giants. I dismember them, often where they stand. All fall.

Muuuhahahahahaha!

No really though, I have a 100% accuracy rate! Every piece I cut, hits the ground!
 
I was thinking about this last night, and Dave could be right depending on exact interpretation, and exactly how the wedges are made. End of the day it's rise over run. That blunt wedge if exactly 12" would have less of an angle than a sharp wedge that's exactly 12", with both having the same butt thickness. To compute the blunt wedge, you'd have to extend the lines til they intersected, and that would give you an effective length >12".

It's all pretty marginal with the dimensions we're talking about, and the lesser angle of the blunt wedge would be slightly offset by the greater effort it takes to start it due to being further along the wedge length. For these wedges, I don't see a blunt tip being a problem. These aren't "I misjudged a cut and have to get my saw unstuck wedges". They're for the biggest trees, and you're gonna have a few set before your backcut's very far along.
 
the wedge could be sharpened or blunted by changing the angle of the top. Moving the top line of the triangle up or down at the thin end.

Or the angle could remain the same and the front could be beveled.

I suspect Bjarne made the front a touch higher or thicker and the rear a touch thinner.
 
What's going on with the top on those. Is it just paint? Looks too perfect to be paint.
 
Ordered some stuff from arbsession. I was looking at their wedges, and noticed Pfanner makes Protos wedges out of recycled plastic from their helmets. I feel like they're a little out of line with their pricing. $32 for a 9" plastic wedge. This is Pfanner's price. Not like arbsession is marking things way up. They're basically making something out of useless material, and then charging 3x as much as competing plastic wedges. Dunno how they came up with that number, but I don't see them selling many wedges. I might pay a couple bucks more to make use of recycled plastic, but not that much more.

Anyway, here's a link to arbsession's wedge page. There's some interesting screwdrive exotics, and the Pfanner is at the bottom...


I got a couple of their 3d printed pocket wedges, the hitchnut, Husky felling lever, and an Edelrid throwcube. 18% off til midnight(presumably).
 
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