Friction saver for climbing.

[MatthewMMeckley]

Awesome Stig. Thats what I was thinking but wasn't sure.

 

[biggun]

I have never climbed or seen one of the sleeve style friction savers in the flesh.

I have climbed on some form of saver for years. Started with a ring to ring, then added a pulley to the large ring with a crab. Then did the pulley on a sling for a long time but this is none retrievable from the ground. Then went to the ART Ropguide. Brilliant piece of kit and used one for years along with a hitch climber and a VT combo. Now I have 2 home made ropeguides. One 5 metre one with a cocoon for fat trees and stems and a shorter one running a pinto rig spliced to friction hitch it to the main loop.

Recently have been getting more and more into the bulldog bone and SRT work. (Even though I have had the rope wrench in both its guises) so not using the guides as much.

Must admit though, I do love the feeling of a freely flowing VT hitch and ropeguide for blasting around big open trees.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

I see that rope bone and SRT looks awesome. I hope to learn SRT soon after I figure out these friction savers.

 

[sawman]

Dan house rope sleeve works great for me.
Real easy to install,never comes off my rope.
I been using SRT on one end of my rope,drt on the tail..works great
I will SRT up to my tip,pull up my tail and hook up drt to get to work it also helps if I need two ty ins for work positioning.
I think I got the ideal for Richard Mumford yoyo man?

 

[Jed]

I climb ddrt. I'm outdated.

Yeah, me too, but we've gotta get with the program. SRT is way more efficient. I just can't spring for a hybrid yet.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Dan house rope sleeve works great for me.
Real easy to install,never comes off my rope.
I been using SRT on one end of my rope,drt on the tail..works great
I will SRT up to my tip,pull up my tail and hook up drt to get to work it also helps if I need two ty ins for work positioning.
I think I got the ideal for Richard Mumford yoyo man?

Smart man I think thats the way I would go about it. I like Drt but SRT seems easier at times.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Let's do it Jed First one to learn it has to buy a 24 pack or a whiskey shot lol. Nah but this should be a fun experience.

 

[Raj]

I think they just had a sale on the HH at treestuff.

 

[Jed]

I'm in man. I do it already just on my VT hitch, by locking the carabiner (on the static end) off to the tree; but it's a little sketchy, and big descents are a pain in the neck. We need a hitch hiker or a rope wrench. I'd prefer the HH, but I'm sooooo cheap.

 

[Jed]

I think they just had a sale on the HH at treestuff.

Aright! Check it out after dinner!! Thanks man!

 

[Raj]

I don't know if it's still on, just something I saw in passing, a scratch and dent sale I think.

 

[treebilly]

I think it's over for now. I'm pretty sure I missed out. I did see that august's monkey beaver shirt is listed though

 

[HolmenTree]

Matthew, here's my diagram I drew up on a Mexican beach 3 years ago for the TreeHousers faithful. I learned to install and remove ring & ring friction savers from the ground about 15 yrs ago from ArborMaster Canada.

#1 shows throwing or big shoting the line and weight bag over and isolating a crotch on a limb

#2 shows stringing the tail of the throwline through the big ring. The bag is untied and the working end of the line is passed through the small ring. The bag is tied back on.

#3 shows the friction saver is pulled up and over the TIP ,the rings will clink together with a quick tug. Then let the bag back to the ground ,untie it then attach your climb rope in the rope bag to the throwline.
Pull the rope up through the rings and back down again. Now you can tie DRT to your saddle with your favorite friction hitch.

When you want to remove the friction saver from the ground. Tie a square knot about 6 inches from the working end of your climb rope then pull the knot up and when the knot gets to the rings give a quick tug and the knot will pass through the large ring first, then will catch the small ring as it can't pass through it and the friction saver and rope will come to the ground.

Last pic shows me with my DRT with a Blakes. If you can zoom in you can see the ring & ring 50 ft up in the TIP.
I think the main reason why most climbers switch to SRT is they can't properly install a superior TIP with the ring & ring friction saver as I just showed.
Practice, practice . You really have to study the small ring and large ring placement in my diagram to understand how the knot works to remove the f. saver from the ground.
Start on a low limb and have a spare r. r. saver on hand for the learning curve. Those rings are almost smooth as a pulley but enough friction on the rope to work your hitch smoothly.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Thank you thank you I saw it on the refresh after a few hours. But thank you this is awesome. ����

 

[HolmenTree]

That was quick Matthew ,are you on speed dial
Glad I could help you. When I learned this technique it took the instructor a half day to drill it in our heads. Then at the end of the day each student was timed in a competition installing and removing the f. saver on a 20 ft high limb. Best time was a student doing the whole process in 35 seconds.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Haha well my girlfirend finally left. She was with me on the weekend and i was having tree house withdrawls. So i just logged in and saw this. Thats pretty fast for just learning it. So im gonna whoop my ass into shape when it gets above 10 degrees and learn it.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

There is also some second typical way, but I never learned it. I go with Willard's method.




I think that this link will work, directly.
http://www.buckinghammfg.com/instructionsandwarnings/FRICAVE_060112.pdf



p.s. (said quietly from the side of the mouth) go srt.

 

[HolmenTree]

p.s. (said quietly from the side of the mouth) go srt.

Those lightweight 7/16"/ 11mm ropes are nice........some day.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Haha I am going to do so. Just gotta wait for the weather to break.

There is also some second typical way, but I never learned it. I go with Willard's method.




I think that this link will work, directly.
http://www.buckinghammfg.com/instructionsandwarnings/FRICAVE_060112.pdf



p.s. (said quietly from the side of the mouth) go srt.

 

[Limbrat]

I'm in man. I do it already just on my VT hitch, by locking the carabiner (on the static end) off to the tree; but it's a little sketchy, and big descents are a pain in the neck. We need a hitch hiker or a rope wrench. I'd prefer the HH, but I'm sooooo cheap.

Go for it Jed, you've got to consider it as an investment and get one. You won't regret it. Go ahead and get 3 feet of armor-prus when you order. The beeline that comes with it is okay, but for me the AP is way smoother.

 

[pantheraba]

If you can't see your TIP well at least be sure there is a "catcher" of some sort below your TIP...I discovered this when I went up to assess a big oak a few years ago:

 

[HolmenTree]

Limbrat I guess you guys trust all that fancy gear....stuff that's been recalled then improved , recalled again

 

[HolmenTree]

Gary yes it's a good idea to shock load the shit out of your TIP before you ascend. But I can always see mine. Had to use my binoculars once.
Try the ring & ring friction saver on a smaller crotch Gary and you have less chance of those unseen problems.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

Did the job, Gary? I used what turned out to be a 1/2" sprout once, only a foot over a 10"/ 10" co-dom crotch. A catcher is good. 1/2" didn't flinch at bounce testing, rope right at the collar.

 

[pantheraba]

Oh, yeah....I bounced tested, felt fine...and it held fine. It was just a bit of a surprise when I saw it. But I do try to get a "catcher" whenever I can.

I have had some little ones hold like you describe...and a few that didn't....the few feet "adjustment" can be invigorating.