Favorite Chainsaw 'Builders' list

Why so much cost on a 372? Someone over charging? Just wondering Merle.
I sold this one that was built to the gills for $1200.

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That was the price I was quoted over the phone months ago for a new 372 XP then stripped down and full "west coast build" done on it. (I bought a 576 locally for my last stock saw having been told it was better than the stock 372.)

I'm always open to better and cheaper if you have any suggestions.

Thanks
 
That was the price I was quoted over the phone months ago for a new 372 XP then stripped down and full "west coast build" done on it. (I bought a 576 locally for my last stock saw having been told it was better than the stock 372.)

I'm always open to better and cheaper if you have any suggestions.

Thanks

Dealer on my site was selling the 372 for $699 and local dealer had them for $719.

Thats the going price right now above on sale.

Porting in ID $200 plus shipping. In WI about $250-$300.
 
What about Wicked Work Saws?

Someone mentioned high output oilers, is that an OEM upgrade part or does someone make upgrade pumps? I'd like a high output pump for my 2188.
 
Your 2188 oiler will drown your saw with oil if you turn it up. If it isn't oiling enough then either you don't have it adjusted right or it's broken. I believe Husqvarna and Jonsered oilers are 3 turns out for maximum output.
 
My 385 oiled great with 32". Then again never ran a 42" on it to know on that.

Logger that owns it now has 32" too and no problems oiling still today.

Start checking your 2188 over as same oiler as in mine was.

h385p505.jpg
 
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As you may well know, clean your oil tank, pick-up body in the tank, and check for output with no bar. Clean the oil hole in the side of the bar, possibly open it up a little and being sure you have proper overlap between oiler output and oil hole in the bar, and be sure the groove of the bar is clean.

How is your oil tank volume when the gas is run through?
 
Most bars these days have tiny oil holes, usually angled. I drill them out to the size they used to be before the EPA clowns started cracking down on every drop of oil used by small hand held two cycle equipment. In the meantime one single intercontinental airplane flight emits more pollution than every chainsaw in the US in a one year period combined.
 
I forgot about drilling them. My 32" seems fine when the pump is turned up, I don't think I've drilled its or the 42"s holes. Half the time the bit snags in the weird shaped hole busting it to where I'm both out a bit, and left with a bit tip jammed in there. The tank drain rate seems good. Per tank of gas its something like 1/3 tank on low, 1/2-2/3 tank on medium, and a little over a full tank on high. I just wonder sometimes in full bar length cuts where the chain looks dry: is there enough oil to protect from excessive wear, or just enough to prevent seizing. I just aim to get as much life out of my bars as I can. Just two days ago the boss ran into a very curvy cut that eventually jammed the blade, I think it was from a worn out bar groove since the chain still seemed sharp enough. I know it happens sooner or later, just hoping for later.

EDIT: the 32" Total bar already has big holes, the 42" doesn't! A good machining bit went through like it was balsa.
 
Many saws have oilers that only work when clutch is engaged. In dry wood and long bars, a couple flips on throttle with bar tilted down a bit usually cool saw as well as lube chain and bar tip.
I drill the holes if its tiny just as Brian and always have pumps on max!
Oil is cheep compared to bars and chains.
 
Figured I would bump this in hopes of finding some current day builders that the community stands behind. I’ve reached out to a couple (ripsaw and worksaws) and been trying to find more detailed info and reviews from our community. I’m thinking more and more about a modded 2511 but I want to make the investment with someone that can tell me what I’ll get and what I can expect from my investment
 
Figured I would bump this in hopes of finding some current day builders that the community stands behind. I’ve reached out to a couple (ripsaw and worksaws) and been trying to find more detailed info and reviews from our community. I’m thinking more and more about a modded 2511 but I want to make the investment with someone that can tell me what I’ll get and what I can expect from my investment
@BIGTWIG runs about 15 of my saws including a 2511. Carl has a couple of mine as well. There may be more here that have run my stuff but I’m not familiar with their screen names.

I’d be careful with Ripsaw. They don’t actually do any port work. They hire other guys from outside of their company. Just a middle man
 
I don’t currently own a 2511. That would be my next investment. Tell me about your work on them. You can DM me if you don’t want to share here
 
I keep reading across the web that most of the power comes from the exhaust modification so I’ve been curious about power performance with all of the other work people do to saws
 
I'd be interested in a 2511 muffler mod myself. I don't need porting, but a free and easy power boost would be nice.
 
I'd be interested in a 2511 muffler mod myself. I don't need porting, but a free and easy power boost would be nice.
You’ll need some silver soldering skills or a TIG welder. I cut the original deflector off and drill a couple more holes next to the existing one and silver solder a longer reflector that points toward the opening in the plastic on the 2511. May end up having to carve a little bit of that plastic to get it to fit in there
 
I can't weld, but soldering is approachable. How about gills? Might eliminate the need for an addon deflector.
 
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