Cycling (bicycles)

[branchbuzzer]

It's been pretty much common knowledge for a while now that the frames of the pros are much beefier than the retail frames, especially for the sprinters and the larger power riders. They've gotten better at making things stiffer, but they offset that with pushing the limit on weight even further. Most everyday cyclists have so much extra baggage on themselves and more they could get out of their fitness that the bike weight is only a small difference. It's not about the bike as they say, hard to get beginners to see that though when the strong guys have fancy gear.

There has been a UCI regulation for a few years now, not sure when it was exactly put in, that the pro bikes must weigh at least 15? lbs. The lighter riders don't really like the rule because it makes their bikes a bigger percentage of combined rider/bike weight, but the small guys still climb better anyway.

I do like having a few extra gears to keep the rpms a little more consistent. Back when 6 and 7s was common, being able to adapt your cadence to large gaps in the gears was a bit of an art, not so much anymore with 10. Another problem with 10s and even 9 is that any little bit that your RD adjustment is off and it won't shift right, to the point that sometimes you'll always have one shift in the range that isn't clean no matter how much you fiddle with it.

 

[branchbuzzer]

bet the sponsors loved seeing that bike go over the rails.

Well, at least it removed the failure from the public gaze. Kinda like when race car teams shut the garage doors after a blowup...

 

[woodworkingboy]

Lots you don't see goes on in the world of racing. Guys riding other frames and having them painted to look like the sponsored one they are supposed to be riding, at least in times past. I think what failed was his chain broke. Some little thing like that blows your attack....bummer. They have gotten real narrow to accommodate the increased gears and more limited spacing. I know that the little guys are usually considered the best climbers, or it used to be that way. I think Armstrong was a good climber, and perhaps LeMond as well....Bernard Thevenet. Some bigger guy good climbers through history. Those big races now are so heavily sponsored, it affords things like luxury vans for the riders where they get their massages and ...shots . The more money teams have an advantage probably. The Tour de France is still a grueling race, but in the old days when guys had to carry their spare tires around their necks and nobody was catching up to them in a car to deliver food and drink, it must have been more interesting. Wine was probably the refreshment of choice. Cool if it could more go back to that, and no cheating.

I like light components on a road bike, have a Super record system from about eight years ago on a frame, but when they went to carbon cranks and derailers, I lost interest. The classic components are so much prettier than carbon to my eye, like Canpagnolo from twenty-forty years ago. Fine bikes were art then, and equally as fun to ride. For climbing, light is an advantage for sure. There are some crazy light mountain bikes these days, hard to believe it when you lift them up.

 

[OTGBOSTON]

I see bikes selling for six grand, all carbon with the latest components.

There is a tri specific race bike at the shop I go to, it can be yours for the low, low price of $9,999.99

I like the older bikes. As has been said here, unless you're a world class cyclist you aren't going to notice much of a difference between $50 wheels or $500 wheels.

For the time being I'm happy using my bike for commuting, racing, and touring. Maybe in a few years I'll but a fancy tri bike but for now I'm good.

 

[woodworkingboy]

It isn't all in the past, though. There are some individual frame builders out there now doing some phenomenal work. The standard has been raised real high by these guys. Really hand made in a true sense. This is a hand filed seat lug on a Peter Mooney road frame, and a head tube from a Richard Sachs frame, both current American builders. It must be nice having a bike built to your physical specs.

 

[branchbuzzer]

There is a tri specific race bike at the shop I go to, it can be yours for the low, low price of $9,999.99

I like the older bikes. As has been said here, unless you're a world class cyclist you aren't going to notice much of a difference between $50 wheels or $500 wheels.

For the time being I'm happy using my bike for commuting, racing, and touring. Maybe in a few years I'll but a fancy tri bike but for now I'm good.

The time-trial bikes and the increased emphasis on time-trials at the grass roots level of cycling has made it hard for younger racers to compete. Not many college age or younger kids can afford to plunk down $5,000 just for a TT bike, so many times they just have to use a normal road bike and be at a disadvantage. The average age of the lower level racers has been going steadily up for 20 years and that's one of the reasons. There really isn't much difference between the average age of the masters ( age-group ) races and the regular category races now.

The wheelsets can easily go for $1,000 or higher, they now have carbon rim wheels that can go as high as $3,000 new. Crazy. In the old days the fancy wheels weren't much of an advantage, but they are now quite a step up from a normal 32-spoke box rim. Most of that advantage goes away on steep climbs, but it is real on flat roads. So people pay.


The weight on the bike climbing makes a difference, but it makes a lot less difference than people think. Climbing speed on steep climbs is almost all related to the watts/kg ratio (power to weight). So for example if I can turn 380 watts on a 10-15 minute climb and weigh 80kgs (176lb) my ratio is 4.75. Someone else of the same weight that turns only 300 watts ( 3.75 ratio ) would have to be 139 lbs to get the same ratio and climb the same speed. Most people can't take 37 lbs. off of their bike , so they'd be a lot better off just training and getting the fat off themselves than worrying about their bike.

Most average joes have a ratio of about 2.5-3.5, top amateur racers are about 5.0 and top European pros are in the 6-7 range.

 

[brendonv]

I want a road bike in a bad way. Priced one out through a bike builder, told him how I expect to be riding, yada yada. He has DeBernardi bikes, came out to like 1600 with a fit.

I really don't know squat about bikes, and would prefer a good used bike. Any brands or suggestions?

 

[woodworkingboy]

I would first determine what frame specs fit you, get measured, then you know what you are looking for, new or used. What racers use tends to be what trickles down to the public as the thing to ride, and that probably still is shorter wheel bases. Actually, a longer wheel base is more comfortable for casual riding for the average person. There are also the component sizes, like what sized crank arms and handlebar stem, it is good to have a nice fit. That is where a trusted shop can really help you out, if there is one in your area. I would think that you could get a good riding new bike with decent components from a shop for a grand, and then you have the advantage of the advise and options. Maybe upgrade a bit on wheels if possible. After riding and the surrounding experiences, meeting other riders, you would probably get a better feel for what you like in terms of a carbon, steel, or aluminum frame, and the other variables. Used bikes are easier to find that will suit you, when you have something specific in mind. Offhand, I would make my first bike a steel frame. They are proven and more than a few choices, a comfortable ride, imo. There is a lot of hype out there, I think it is good to try and keep it simple. A bike show is a good place to check out things, and maybe get some friendly persuasion about types.

 

[brendonv]

Thanks Jay, good advice there. I was leaning towards just biting the bullet and getting a bike from this guy from the get go. Every time I go in there he is more than willing to explain things, and put them into my terms. A friend of mine is kinda into it, but I'm afraid that he just goes along with the hype of it all, "The new gotta have it" way.

I'm looking for something for local transportation, and mostly training for motocross. I tried mountain biking but I find I really hate driving places to go ride, I'm more of a what's out your front door kinda guy. Less time driving I'm happy.

 

[PCTREE]

I used to race years ago, raced for the national squad as a junior, did lots of classics. Rode for a french team as a senior. Now I just try to ride whenever I can find time. One thing that I do know is the more I ride the happier and more laid back I am. Started riding again after taking about 10 years off after I quit racing to help me deal with depression/anxiety.

Heres my current road bike, sorry about the carbon Jay

 

[brendonv]

That thing is sexy, damn.

 

[woodworkingboy]

For training purposes, a single speed gets you a long way, especially one without a freewheel, which means you can't coast, always have to be pedaling. It can be somewhat impractical with the longer braking distance required, to down right dangerous at times (downhill), but it is pretty popular these days. A single speed with a freewheel makes things easier and safer, you can coast. The downside of single is that you only have the one gear, and if you have a lot of hills in your area, it probably isn't the best. I like single and the challenge of only one gear, having to rise to the occasion through only my own effort, but it kind of goes against the trend of more gears to make cycling easier. Really steep hills are out for a single, unless you are some kind of animal, as they tend to be geared for flatter terrain. Single speed is really quiet with simple maintenance. You don't have the clanging around in the back and no need for shifters. Kind of the essence of 'bike', to my mind.

Carbon sure is light, Paul. Honestly, I have never ridden a full carbon frame bike, just a steel bike with carbon forks. Carbon is strong too, I read. At one point there seemed to be some question about how it would hold up over time. I think it is deemed quite durable now.

 

[pigwot]

Brendon,
How tall are you and what length inseam pants do you buy? I have a customer who has known me since I had bike shops back in the '70s.
He had hips replaced and was hoping to get back to bicycling; bought a brand new Giant TCR bike and never used it.
Asked me about selling it for him and dropped it off.
The frame measures 21" from the bottom bracket axle to the seat post binder bolt.
It's a Med/Large Giant TCR. It has Shimano Tiagra, Aluminum Aluxx SL frame, Composite fork with Aluminum steerer, comes with standard pedals, helmet, and a lock.
It was purchased in early 2010, and it has never been ridden after the test drive. Stored inside.
He paid $1100.00 and is asking $850

 

[PCTREE]

Good beginner bike.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Good chance if it fits ok.

 

[brendonv]

Is that a good group? They told me to get an "Altegra (sp)" equivalent.

I am 5,8. 30" inseam.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Looks like your size, Brendon, the seat tube is about right, anyway.

I don't have any experience with that component group set, but it appears to be mid range between higher end and entry level. Shimano makes good gear. It would probably serve you well.

 

[Paul B]

Here is a link of Shimano groupsests for components. I have a mix of Deore to XTR on my two mountain bikes.

Road groupsets

For 2011, road bicycle groupsets include:

Dura-Ace Di2 [7970] (10 speed electronic)
Dura-Ace [7900] (10 speed)
Dura-Ace Track [7700] (NJS-approved, which is a requirement of all bicycle components used in professional Keirin racing in Japan)
Ultegra Di2 [6770] (10 speed electronic)
Ultegra [6700] (10 speed)
105 [5700] (10 speed)
Tiagra [4600] (10 speed) 9 speed on older models
Sora [3400] (9 speed)
2300 [2300] (8 speed)

 

[top_notch]

I worked as a mechanic in a shop for about five years, and for the every day rider 105 is great stuff.

 

[PCTREE]

Yup Tiagra is a bit lacking, Im sure being Shimano it works OK but durability may be lacking. However that being said this could be a good way to get a bike and get started. If you get bitten by the bug then you can think about upgrading after a year or so. As stated its about the rider not the bike. Maybe if the dude would pay shipping it would work good otherwise that may kill the deal.

 

[woodworkingboy]

You can switch out components. The brakes might be good, but at a later time upgrading the derailer or something could be useful.

 

[brendonv]

I'll research it. I'm done with driving trips, after 20 hrs back and forth to Ohio last week. Not sure I'd want to ship..

 

[Burnham]

Doesn't seem like it would be that costly to ship. I sent six 3 meter stacking ladder units to Arizona a couple of years ago for not much over $50 if I recall right.

 

[Paul B]

for components I think the most important to have in good order is the rear derailleur, it it gets the most abuse. Then brakes and lastly front derailleur. If its going to get lots of riding the wheel hubs can also be upgraded.

 

[kevin bingham]

Bikes do not belong on sidewalks. That is for pedestrians. Cars need to respect bikeriders as legitimate vehicles. Bikers do need to behave appropriatly but NOT on sidewalks.