SouthSoundTree-
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Remember that you are starting at empty weight, no people, tools, etc. Check your door sticker. You're probably good. Easy to check. A ladder rack and gear starts to add up.
Chip Box for F250
- Thread starter woodslinger
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woodslinger
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- #27
Good point, a very easy element to forget in the equation
Just keep the side boards inside the wheel wells and about the same height or a little higher than the cab and you will be fine. Like I said, ladder/lumber racks make a nice strong frame to bolt the plywood to. It is easy to realy pack a setup like mine with chips. It would be a good idea to get some Timbrens or Firestone air bags because the 3/4 tons rear springs are kind of soft.
SouthSoundTree-
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A 6"x 9" bandit isn't so bad, from what I hear, as a 6x6" throat vermeer (from my experience, it sucks).
Look at your combined weight capacity and payload, legal and longevity-wise.
Look at your combined weight capacity and payload, legal and longevity-wise.
woodslinger
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #31
The chipper size is still TBD, not entirely my call although I do have some influence in the purchase. My dad is buying one to rent out, mainly to me and the landscape co next to him. He has an interesting business model in mind, renting by the hour with him to operate. He was talking about $50/hr, which if he sticks with that is fantastic for me compared to renting a machine and having to worry about pick up and drop off times. We'll see how all that plays out.
I agree that a 9" would be about perfect, but there are several 12" woodchuck's in online auctions locally. There is some grant program for treework so several municipalities bought new 12"bandits last year and are now auctioning off their old ones. The last one went for 9,300 with less than 1,000 hours on it.
According to KBB, my base payload is 2625. Max towing is 14200. It doesn't list a GCVWR, I'll check my door plate tomorrow and see if its listed.
Any preference between the timbrens or the bags? I'm leaning toward the bags since I'm a fan of adjust-ability and versatility. My wife's uncle has bags on his silverado and he seems to like them, he doesn't have an onboard compressor though so he gets a rough ride leaving the house when they're pumped up to 100 psi for firewood loading.
I agree that a 9" would be about perfect, but there are several 12" woodchuck's in online auctions locally. There is some grant program for treework so several municipalities bought new 12"bandits last year and are now auctioning off their old ones. The last one went for 9,300 with less than 1,000 hours on it.
According to KBB, my base payload is 2625. Max towing is 14200. It doesn't list a GCVWR, I'll check my door plate tomorrow and see if its listed.
Any preference between the timbrens or the bags? I'm leaning toward the bags since I'm a fan of adjust-ability and versatility. My wife's uncle has bags on his silverado and he seems to like them, he doesn't have an onboard compressor though so he gets a rough ride leaving the house when they're pumped up to 100 psi for firewood loading.
RopeArmour
TreeHouser
I added springs. Inexpensive no nonsense fix. Tires will be the weak link. Take care
RopeArmour
TreeHouser
Might also want to consider making the sides slide so you can fork and push out the load when the load is trapped and the load handler no goes. Best thing I did with my 1st truck
woodslinger
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #34
Do you mean build it so the sides can slide out the back? Wouldn't the outward pressure from the chips lock them in place? I am planning on making the sides removable, I had not thought of trying to make them removable while loaded.
woodslinger
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #35
It took me a while and still needs some tweeks, but this seems to be working fairly well.
I got the rack and boxes from a friend, had to do a decent amount of welding on one of the boxes. The rack was custom made, we think it was a pipe rack, it used to be much longer than it is now, and super heavy duty. Whoever originally made it was a very good welder. We actually removed much of the reinforcements for weight and clearance. I have to come up with some sort of bracket or something for the load handler as it cannot sit on the tailgate when it is closed, the shaft hits the uprights for the rack. We've been using it as is, we just let it hang while loading and set it in the hooks at the top of the rack for transport.
I got the rack and boxes from a friend, had to do a decent amount of welding on one of the boxes. The rack was custom made, we think it was a pipe rack, it used to be much longer than it is now, and super heavy duty. Whoever originally made it was a very good welder. We actually removed much of the reinforcements for weight and clearance. I have to come up with some sort of bracket or something for the load handler as it cannot sit on the tailgate when it is closed, the shaft hits the uprights for the rack. We've been using it as is, we just let it hang while loading and set it in the hooks at the top of the rack for transport.
SouthSoundTree-
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Cool. Beware of chips getting into the vents between the windshield and hood, and the wiper assembly.
Consider getting some heavy duty fabric that can be cut to a triangle and attached to form sides for the box when the top is lifted. Reduces the mess, possibly.
If the Load handler can't crank out a full load, layer tarps in there (chip and tarp lasagna). The chips will naturally form a slope on which to put the tarp, it will slide right out emptying a bunch per tarp, until you're low enough that the LH can manage. If you put some rope on the top grommets on the tarp, you can pull it from outside the truck starting at the top, parbuckle style 2:1 (minus a lot of friction). https://www.google.com/search?sourc...oq=parbuckle image&aqs=chrome..69i57.3479j0j4
The chips are in place of the log. They sorta turn into a cylindrical shape.
A tarp under the LH drag sheet cuts the friction compared to Rhino-lined bed, and probably plywood.
Consider getting some heavy duty fabric that can be cut to a triangle and attached to form sides for the box when the top is lifted. Reduces the mess, possibly.
If the Load handler can't crank out a full load, layer tarps in there (chip and tarp lasagna). The chips will naturally form a slope on which to put the tarp, it will slide right out emptying a bunch per tarp, until you're low enough that the LH can manage. If you put some rope on the top grommets on the tarp, you can pull it from outside the truck starting at the top, parbuckle style 2:1 (minus a lot of friction). https://www.google.com/search?sourc...oq=parbuckle image&aqs=chrome..69i57.3479j0j4
The chips are in place of the log. They sorta turn into a cylindrical shape.
A tarp under the LH drag sheet cuts the friction compared to Rhino-lined bed, and probably plywood.
woodslinger
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
Thanks for the advice Sean. I like the fabric triangle idea. I had not thought of the wipers and vents. I laugh about the chips and dust flying off as we strive away, sounds like rain, but had not thought about it getting INTO anything.
I have had it pretty full and the load handler still worked really well. It has a plastic bed liner which is crazy slippery, but it needs to be replaced or I might put in a sheet of polymax
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I have had it pretty full and the load handler still worked really well. It has a plastic bed liner which is crazy slippery, but it needs to be replaced or I might put in a sheet of polymax
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
SouthSoundTree-
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The drag sheet on a metal bed might be fine. Might be worth trying once before investing some money.
Plastic bed liners seem to be ribbed, from what I've seen. The metal might be smoother.
My wipers squeek. Its not the blades, but the mechanism.
Stuff getting into the vents is worse.
I didn't get around to narrowing the bed to 4', and have an 8' bed. "Load lock" behind the wheel wells can defeat a lot of the LH ability, which you don't have to deal with.
Changing to a one-piece top that reaches the rear of the bed might be worthwhile. You have a big distance between the discharge chute and the sloping plywood. Looks like it could make a big mess. Cleaning up a lot of excess mess over time adds up.
Why did you choose to make a short top?
I messed with my plywood box in different ways over time. If you have the box extend to the rear, with a panel/ door on the rear, you can secure it enough to 'keep an honest man, honest", while shopping and the like. I didn't have toolboxes, so it was either keep stuff in the cab, or don't shop/ stop for lunch while working.
I imagine you will get more utility and less mess with that box being enclosed, even if its just four of those metal trailer corners
,http://www.agrisupply.com/product.a...SKHY3VYRABXFGamv2Tuu77Ww3XUdfr5EXUaAobp8P8HAQ
two hasps, and two padlocks, if you need to remove the rear panel, rather than hinge one or two doors.
Plastic bed liners seem to be ribbed, from what I've seen. The metal might be smoother.
My wipers squeek. Its not the blades, but the mechanism.
Stuff getting into the vents is worse.
I didn't get around to narrowing the bed to 4', and have an 8' bed. "Load lock" behind the wheel wells can defeat a lot of the LH ability, which you don't have to deal with.
Changing to a one-piece top that reaches the rear of the bed might be worthwhile. You have a big distance between the discharge chute and the sloping plywood. Looks like it could make a big mess. Cleaning up a lot of excess mess over time adds up.
Why did you choose to make a short top?
I messed with my plywood box in different ways over time. If you have the box extend to the rear, with a panel/ door on the rear, you can secure it enough to 'keep an honest man, honest", while shopping and the like. I didn't have toolboxes, so it was either keep stuff in the cab, or don't shop/ stop for lunch while working.
I imagine you will get more utility and less mess with that box being enclosed, even if its just four of those metal trailer corners
two hasps, and two padlocks, if you need to remove the rear panel, rather than hinge one or two doors.
woodslinger
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
The top was the leftover from the front piece, which is why it is 4'. I am thinking about replacing it with a full sheet and the fabric sides you mentioned before, I think that will cut down on the mess tremendously. I have 2 sets of those corner brackets on each side holding the front and sides together, but I think I should have 3 as the corners flex and chips blow through. A rear panel might be pretty sweet to increase capacity as well as the enclosed box you mentioned.
I experienced the load lock in the wheel wells and actually tried to load the bed high in the center and les on the sides just to minimize it. With the sides inside the wheel wells is unloads super nicely.
I experienced the load lock in the wheel wells and actually tried to load the bed high in the center and les on the sides just to minimize it. With the sides inside the wheel wells is unloads super nicely.
SouthSoundTree-
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You might re-install those corner brackets dealio's in the rear. Take a 2x2 or 2x4 run vertically along the seam. Screw from the outside plywood into the 2x. Plenty strong, with enough screws, and 2x scrap is probably readily available around the shop, or cheap at the store.
The enclosed box allows you to chip to the max, then toss in a bit of this and that without rakings or equipment falling out.
Depending on the security of your situation, it might make it easy to throw some stuff in the chip box, rather than the (possibly cramped) tool boxes, at times, making it easier.
Personally, I put cones at the rear of the rig, or on the trailer tongue. First item out of the truck, last item in. Rakes, are second to last in, and taken out, put aside, out of the way. Tarps cut clean-up. I keep a piece of accessory cord tied to the tarp grommet, allowing me to have them folded and tied, toss them in, toss them out, toss them around, no unfolding. Where is the cord when you need it? Exactly where you need it.
Good items to secure, but not important/ expensive enough to require metal tool box protection.
$8.95
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=5684
The enclosed box allows you to chip to the max, then toss in a bit of this and that without rakings or equipment falling out.
Depending on the security of your situation, it might make it easy to throw some stuff in the chip box, rather than the (possibly cramped) tool boxes, at times, making it easier.
Personally, I put cones at the rear of the rig, or on the trailer tongue. First item out of the truck, last item in. Rakes, are second to last in, and taken out, put aside, out of the way. Tarps cut clean-up. I keep a piece of accessory cord tied to the tarp grommet, allowing me to have them folded and tied, toss them in, toss them out, toss them around, no unfolding. Where is the cord when you need it? Exactly where you need it.
Good items to secure, but not important/ expensive enough to require metal tool box protection.
$8.95
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=5684
