Chain Loops and cutting teeth?

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If i'm grinding i'll crayon the first tooth, filing I just look.

For breaking chains, I have finish nails in my bench pre set to the right length, breaker is bolted down and roll is on a shaft near that. Peel off the chain to the right nail, break the rivit under the breaker and wah lah
 
Just to make sure of the length ,mostly for a long loop I'll mark if off then string it on the bar just to make darned sure I didn't screw up before I part it from the reel .
 
I was gonna say you should set up like I mentioned but then I remembered what your bench looks like:D
 
When I was making chains on a regular basis I set the roll at the far end of the work bench, vertical on a turning spool. I'd then pull the end of chain out to a nail on the bench and set the rivet hole of the driver over the nail. Between the nail and the spool were marks on the bench to show me where to break the chain for a 36 and 42 inch bar. That's all I ever used in the woods. Which simplified things.

I would break 3 chains at a time and run each until it was work wore and then change over. So long as I was cutting clean wood the chains would wear and stretch at the same rate. It practically eliminated the need to make bar length adjustments in the field when changing over to a sharp chain.

After the chains were wore down, just a little past half way, I give them to some weekend wood cutters I knew. Then break three more. During the active season the chains would last me about two weeks- or 12 days. I only worked on Sundays if I really had to.
 
Well of course the work bench looks like the wreck of the Southern Cross Willie .That's just one,you should see my shop .:lol:

Most generally I'll just buy the 20" loops already spun up but I don't use that many .When they get worn back until just before the last rivet I'll hang them on a nail and refile them as racers every so often .By that time that chain has experianced about as much stretch as it's ever going to get .

Since that's been mentioned I do have several on a nail I should unrock.A lot of life left still but it's going to take some attention .
 
From past experience I have learned that rocked chains are not worth the time and pain it takes to sharpen them. All depending of course.

I use to sharpen chains for others and would just say "No" if they handed me a rocked chain.
 
Well yeah the really bad ones I'd be farther ahead to pitch or cut them dowm to a shorter loop like 16" is that's feasable . The not so bad I just haven't taken the time to fix . Too many irons in the fire .
 
gf beranek said:
I use to sharpen chains for others and would just say "No" if they handed me a rocked chain.
Click to expand...

I don't ever see in your future, working in a tool rental place that offers chainsaws. Looking at the chains that come back to those places, it appears that a lot of folks don't know that they aren't made for concrete.
 
A few years ago I was given a whole slew of chains from a rental place, through a friend. I'm not sure if people bought the chains and returned them with the saw, but I was told that they put a new chain on the saw when it goes out. Quit a large quantity of chains, I'm still working through them. All were rocked pretty bad, but since only one time use, or so, I take them to the grinder and there still is a lot of life left. It would seem reasonable to me to rent out a saw with a reground chain, say only a couple of times used, depending on the degree of damage to the cutters, but few seem to want to do that. Perhaps there is some regulation about it?

I use the ones first that require the least grinding, but it gets to be a dilemma which chain is in better.shape. :|:
 
If I get a really badly rocked chain having no actual chain grinder I use a stone in a Dremel .It's slow but does the job .It just depends on what mood I'm in at the time if I fool with a rocked chain .Obviously by the ones on the nails in my garage it's been some time since that mood has struck me .
 
I used to make DC drive motors for a while when I lived in MA. Even some for Otis Elevator. All the employees were WW2 vets. I got to make whole bunches of armatures, windings, housings etc to Glenn Miller and and and...... Sure made light of the work... ;)
 
Oh that swing stuff drove me nuts in the 60's .It doesn't do much more for me now .Good old fashion rock and roll is my bag .Not to be confused with a nickle bag whatever that was .;)
 
It was a good job at the time considering the recession. I had to repair one old winder for a task. I think they were winch motors. Dang wire was thick as hell. Winder still would not finish it at the com though. I had to do the finish pull with a pair of pliers before I bent the contact on the com. About lost my eye one time pulling hard towards me. Never did that again.
The engineer we had was pretty dang good at figuring out the twist of the laminates, gauge of wire and windings to get the desired product. I was only there for just a little over a year and even they had to let me go due to lack of business. No one was leaving that little factory and since I was the last in, I was the first to go. Couple of those old gents actually had taken a liking to me as if I was their own. Sad day for everyone.
 
It's almost came to the point that a motor winding shop has gone the way of the engine rebuilder .It's usually cheaper to buy a replacement as to get an electric motor rewound .
 
Hand wound motors can really last. The 3hp original on my bandsaw when someone switched over from a line shaft, would still be running at a hundred years old if I hadn't switched countries and went from 220V to 200V. The audible hum from the motor was a sign of the era. Nice motor to look at as well. It saddened me to have to take it off.
 
Too bad you didn't speak up .It would have been a simple thing of using a 240 to 24 volt transformer as an auto transformer . With a 10 to one ratio that would have given you around 220 volts out .----little tricks they don't teach in apprenticeship school .;)
 
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