Brake controller issues

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treesmith

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So I went and hooked up my new dump trailer while ago. I always hit the brake controller button as soon as I start moving to verify that the trailer is connected as well as to test the brakes. Today, I had zero brakes. Even ran the controller up to 10. Nothing. Stuck the tester in the plugs (rear and gooseneck)…no brake light. Checked all fuses related to the trailer wiring. Nothing wrong that I could find. Slid under the truck on the creeper to visually check for damage to the wiring harness. Couldn’t see any issues. I’m wondering if the controller has simply gone out. It worked fine the last time I used it (two weeks ago). Any trailer brake experts here?
 
Not an expert, but we have replaced a few brake controllers that just went bad. I would just replace it.
 
I've had this exact thing happen before, one of those " we can't pull this loaded trailer home from an hour away" moments

the fix was so stupid that I still can't believe it worked, I had someone get the truck up to running speed, and I yanked out the breakaway cable, plugged the cable back in and its never stopped working since
not sure if it was the sudden jolt that rattled something or a power dump from the battery, no idea but as far as I'm aware we've had zero issues since

controllers get power from your brake light switch, when you hit the TBC the truck brake lights should come on, if not, and the controller is still connected properly, I'd say its a bad ground or bad controller

its a weird system IMO, but works, I won't say it works well, but it works
my dad runs a "smart" controller that is supposed to self modulate the gain and add brakes going downhill, it never works right, either you get no brakes or it locks up, and the lever on the controller can't over ride the "max" brakes that you set in the programming
I put a dumb controller in my dump truck that has a delay where it slowly ramps up to a preset power, no more and no less, and the manual lever over rides the entire system, I like it a lot more, especially after that one time going through an intersection a few years ago and my truck became the trailer
 
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Not an expert, but we have replaced a few brake controllers that just went bad. I would just replace it.
My truck is a 2017 Ram 3500 with factory in-dash controller. What model(s) trucks have you replaced controllers in? Did you go back OEM or aftermarket?
 
All electrical connectors are clean? I've had a fuse go bad without it looking bad. Somehow it passed my usually thorough visual inspection, so maybe you should do an ohm test or just swap them out. Also, inspect the contact surfaces of any connector, fuse, ground wire, or trailer plug, anything. Just a little oxide buildup can make things stop working. If a connector has some sort of spring type design that helps one contact press against another, it can help to bend them such that they press harder.
 
I have never had to replace an OEM brake controller, just several of the aftermarket controllers. I would probably try to repair the OEM brake controller if I were in that position.

I would start by hooking up to a different trailer to make sure the issue is with the Ram and not your dump trailer.

Next step I would be disassembling and cleaning the trailer plug on the truck. Then running a test light on all functions.
 
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I plan to try it on the F250 tomorrow. I have checked the plugs on the Ram both with plug tester and test light. Everything checks out but the brake connection. Brake lights are working fine. That’s why I’m leaning toward controller. I pulled every fuse listed pertaining to the trailer and tested each fuse. All good.
 
I’m a Cummins (Ram) guy and I’ll tell you dodge electrical is junk. I’m about fed up with my ‘11. I’ve had to replace the OEM controller ($450) and it still wigs out and blows up the info screen every once in a while telling me the trailer is disconnected and to svc brake system. Along with a bunch of running issues.

I’d go aftermarket. Probably cheaper and more serviceable. I like the smart ones.
 
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What does it mean when it says to service the brake system? Mines been flashing that off and on for a while.
 
I don't know of the other brands are any better. Former boss' kid went South with a 40' gooseneck and new 2022 Denali. No brake controller. And no truck brakes when he got down there.

The F series trucks I've been driving all do the "doo-be-do, Trailer Disconncted" routine all the time. Pretty laid back for just (theoretically) losing your trailer. :lol:
 
The newer models will have an AI bot run out and retrieve it for you.


I think all brands are likely to be problem prone as they speedily add unnecessary complexity to things without the good old fashioned wisdom of planning for and preventing failures. I saw a presentation a guy gave to some NASA scientists saying they still haven't figured out how to get to the moon again, when the Apollo engineers left them the book on how to do it. They were over thinking the new rocket, while also underthinking it. One thing he said was the backup plan list for taking off of the moon had several options, #6 (though not the last option) being use the bolt cutters they packed to cut the return module free from the lander.
 
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If you do end up needing a new controller, I have been using these for many years in at least 6 trucks. Great price, dead nuts reliable and almost all of the features of the high dollar controlers.

 
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I bought one just like that some years back for my 2006 F250. Worked fine. Got one in the cart on Amazon now, in case this one goes out. I rapped on it a bit last night with my utility knife. Just tapped a few times hither and yon around the face of it. Worked fine today… 😳 Wouldn’t even slide the tires yesterday with the trailer empty.
 
I had problems similar to this with hooking up my Prodigy controller. The dealer reflashed the computer in the truck and all was well and good. I think a soft reset by pulling the positive terminal on one or both the batteries( depending) is worth a shot.
 
What does it mean when it says to service the brake system? Mines been flashing that off and on for a while.
If you're still having this issue with the Ram (good idea checking trailer with the Ford) they have a hydraulic brake unit go out - HCU. It's part of the ABS braking circuit and it cuts power to the trailer brake unit when it goes out. At first may be intermittent.

Ram just - finally - did a recall on that part. To have Ram pay repair I believe you need to have Ram document It's failure by doing a $250 diagnosis. The RamForumz HCU recall may give you more insight.
 
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