Benefit of a 20' pole saw?

[Benjo75]

I use the Stihl pole saws about 90% of the time and the Silky 21 ft the other ten. Mainly on limbs I can't reach with the pp. wouldn't leave the house without the pp. As mentioned it works great in storm damage. We were in tornado cleanup once and there was a decent size pine blown into a hickory about 14" dbh. No good way to get the pine down and the hickory had to go anyway. When I was younger I would have cut it and ran. I notched it and bored in. Left about 3 inches of trigger. Used the pp and tripped the hinge and was about 10 ft father out of the way. All went well. I really only use the 8' poles for wire raisers and the Big Shot. Lots of folks here just want the canopy raised to about 12 to 15 ft. Pp works great for that.

 

[rfwoody]

This is a BS

got it!
... oh, now I see what you mean.... if you have a BS you can incorporate it into your other pole tools.

I don't have one, but if I keep going in this and work with bigger trees and/or thick canopys it is on my list

Pole tools have their valuable place, but it can mean somewhat getting under something, and releasing it from the tree. Sometimes you can direct the falling piece away from you.


Dodging stuff, and falling at any age sucks. In your 60's, it's a BIG deal.

<< removed picture for space >>

My friend tripped in a little hole, end result ...

restarting his heart three times, a month later. Internal bleeding that went undetected when his ribs broke, a month earlier.

Hasn't been the same since.

That's why I mentioned the throw line. I can set a lot of stuff with a throw line, saving polesaw work and dodging, climbing, etc.

Line setting with a throwline is a developed skill, which you can practice easier than face-cuts. Its so important for working smarter, IMO.

This cherry tree was under a huge fir tree, so it taller than it looks, probably 35-40' to the tip top. Next to a wire fence, with an apple tree on the far side, and the garden fence out of frame to the right. Not enough room to fell in the direction where I was standing. Lots of sidelean, anyway.

I hung it in about 5 minutes of throw lining, pulling in the rope, choking the Cherry with a running bow line, taking a wrap around the trunk. Its cut off the stump at about 4.5'.

I cut what I could easily reach, lowered it a bit more, cut a bit more, lowered it down to the ground.

10-15.

A throw line/ cube is so light, cheap, versatile, productive, etc, etc.

No pole saw was used in the takedown of this tree. All cutting was done pulling a trigger.

Really interesting, Sean. Thanks.
Yeah, the idea of creative uses of throwline and rigging has been sticking with me.
I'm running this over in my mind for the silver maple in the small front yard I got the job to do.

When you say all cutting was done pulling a trigger..... is that a chainsaw on the ground or a power pole saw? thx.

As I mentioned earlier, I use something similar except with the blue poles and a better blade. I like it as it is a versatile setup. I use it mostly for trimming/pruning as that is what it is intended for. Are you going to be doing trimming also?

I'm reading/studying the arboriculture books and literature and (thanks to suggestions/ideas at The Treehouse) considering getting into trimming and pruning (e.g.) at lower heights.... practicing on some of my trees.

That's what we use. It's a good compromise between quality and price and I don't cry too much when it gets left behind on a job site. (which happens way more often than it should)

Thanks Mellow!

I really like the Marvin heads and especially their blades. I've used many brands over the years and the Marvin blades are not only sharper but they stay sharp longer than any comparable blade that fits those heads. For years I used wooden handles made from closet rod purchased at the hardware store. About 15 years ago I began using the yellow fiberglass handles. I have a mix of 6' and 8' poles.

Thanks a lot Brian! ... I keep being enlightened how resourceful tree people are. Seeing all the shiny gear in the catalogs... and then seeing what and how real professionals use to get the work done.

I bought this set from Bailey's many moons ago. The only complaint is the saw head is easily bent compared to a fully cast head. But the nearly 13years of use I have gotten many times return on my investment.

Thanks flushcut!

I use the Stihl pole saws about 90% of the time and the Silky 21 ft the other ten. Mainly on limbs I can't reach with the pp. wouldn't leave the house without the pp. As mentioned it works great in storm damage. We were in tornado cleanup once and there was a decent size pine blown into a hickory about 14" dbh. No good way to get the pine down and the hickory had to go anyway. When I was younger I would have cut it and ran. I notched it and bored in. Left about 3 inches of trigger. Used the pp and tripped the hinge and was about 10 ft father out of the way. All went well. I really only use the 8' poles for wire raisers and the Big Shot. Lots of folks here just want the canopy raised to about 12 to 15 ft. Pp works great for that.

Thanks Ben.
That seems like a really great idea to use the PP to work safely at a distance from stuff like that.

Do you mainly/only use it from the ground? ... or from in your bucket? thx.

 

[SeanKroll]

All rear-handle saw work.

 

[rfwoody]

Thanks again for all the great, detailed, practical advice, Sean.

 

[SeanKroll]

What does a 6" chipper rent for, minimally?

 

[stig]

We charge $200+ tax a day when we rent our 7" out.
Probably different in the US.

Actually, truth be told, a lot of times it goes out in the moonlight, no tax.
Keeps us able to go climb some great trees and hang out with some great American tree folks every once in a while

 

[Benjo75]

I use it mostly from the ground. But occasionally from the bucket. It's good for the bushier trees where the brush can just fall. I also use it and a throwline to do some rigging that's just out of reach. You'd be surprised how much roof clearance you can do just by being on the roof with a pp and good throwline skills.

 

[rfwoody]

Thanks everyone!

 

[rfwoody]

Just to follow up.... I ordered the 21' Hayauchi pole saw today.... specifically for a specific tree I got the job to remove.
I hope I don't bend the poles.

 

[SkwerI]

I hope I don't bend the poles.

A trick you need to learn for when you get it stuck (and you will). Do NOT yank on it unless you want to just throw it away when you yank it apart. When it gets stuck you need to grab the very end of the handle and make a fist around it. Then take your other hand and smack your fist in an upward motion. Visualize serving a volleyball. You can almost always knock the blade loose because you are pushing it straight up without bending it. If you twist or bend it you will trash your blade.

 

[SeanKroll]

If you're going to pull a hanger with it, DO Not get the saw caught in the falling hanger. You don't want to ruin the saw blade/ pole, nor your shoulder/ wrist/ elbow/ etc trying to pull it free somehow, with a dynamic load and a lever working against you.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

A trick you need to learn for when you get it stuck (and you will). Do NOT yank on it unless you want to just throw it away when you yank it apart. When it gets stuck you need to grab the very end of the handle and make a fist around it. Then take your other hand and smack your fist in an upward motion. Visualize serving a volleyball. You can almost always knock the blade loose because you are pushing it straight up without bending it. If you twist or bend it you will trash your blade.

Excellent tip

 

[SeanKroll]

Yes, Indeed.

 

[Burnham]

I've had some success in freeing a jammed pole saw blade by tossing a throw bag and line up there in the right place, and pulling in the right direction to open the tight kerf. You have to be both lucky in the situation, and smart in your appraisal of it, to make this work. Worth a look and a thought even so.

 

[Bermy]

Yes, you will get it stuck from time to time... but at least if you happen to bend a pole you can get a replacement...been there done that.
Did it just like Sean said, got it stuck in the bit coming down and when it hit the ground it bent one of the poles.

 

[rfwoody]

A trick you need to learn for when you get it stuck (and you will). Do NOT yank on it unless you want to just throw it away when you yank it apart. When it gets stuck you need to grab the very end of the handle and make a fist around it. Then take your other hand and smack your fist in an upward motion. Visualize serving a volleyball. You can almost always knock the blade loose because you are pushing it straight up without bending it. If you twist or bend it you will trash your blade.

If you're going to pull a hanger with it, DO Not get the saw caught in the falling hanger. You don't want to ruin the saw blade/ pole, nor your shoulder/ wrist/ elbow/ etc trying to pull it free somehow, with a dynamic load and a lever working against you.

Excellent tip

Yes, Indeed.

I've had some success in freeing a jammed pole saw blade by tossing a throw bag and line up there in the right place, and pulling in the right direction to open the tight kerf. You have to be both lucky in the situation, and smart in your appraisal of it, to make this work. Worth a look and a thought even so.

Yes, you will get it stuck from time to time... but at least if you happen to bend a pole you can get a replacement...been there done that.
Did it just like Sean said, got it stuck in the bit coming down and when it hit the ground it bent one of the poles.

THANKS A LOT Brian, Sean, Burnham, Bermy, CurSedVoyce!!

(I am just now looking at this thread (and logging onto The Treehouse) after 2 or 3 weeks)

NOTE: I finished my first public removal for pay last Thursday (Nov 16). I wanted to report to the group, but I wanted to put it together with a few pictures and organized and I haven't gotten around to it yet but I plan to soon... thanks again for all the help!!

NOTE: I did get the polesaw stuck once, high up, and now I don't remember how I got it down... I just kept working with it (I did yank on it.. pushing and pulling... but I guess not hard enough to do any damage... but know I know!) .... these are great tips!

BUT REGARDING THE POLE SAW.....

It worked out great in this tree removal (Silver Maple, maybe 40' high? ... 26" DBH?... limbs all spreading out horizontal like ((nearly?) as wide as it was tall) .... did it all from the ground and the bed of my truck with a stepladder.

>>>> With this 21' pole saw I was able to do the job.

HOWEVER: I'm thinking about returning it for 3 reasons:

1 -- NOT SHARP(?) ... I don't think it is as sharp as it should be.... it took me at least 5 minutes and at least 200 or 300(?) or more strokes to cut through a 6" limb. (as an example... and there were lots of 3 or 4" limbs that took a long time...even 2" limbs seems like it took way too many strokes.
2 -- DEFECTIVE ... One of the metal buttons that click into the holes used to hold the extensions sticks... sticks randomly and pops out randomly when it does stick (tried silicone spray, etc.).. it's like an alignment type stick vs. a friction type stick.
3 -- For $300 I think it ought to be a lot better than the above 2 problems.

Anyway, if you see this and I don't get back soon, everyone have a great Thanksgiving!

 

[Tree09]

Did I read that right, you used a step ladder in the bed of your truck?

 

[Bermy]

Glad you got to try it finally.

Sharpness...this shouldn't really be a problem, those Silky blades are sharp as buggery...sometimes when the poles are fully extended and you are cutting up high, there isn't quite enough weight up at the head bearing down to cut deeply on each stroke, and there is only so much pressure you can add from the bottom by levering. Yes, sometimes it takes a while.

Defective...all the parts are removable, if you are game, try taking the button assembly out and checking it and the corresponding holes. If not, take it back where you bought it and ask for a replacement?

$300...only you can decide if you got value for money.

 

[pantheraba]

Did I read that right, you used a step ladder in the bed of your truck?

That got my attention, too. It sounds like a perfect set up to get hurt. Pushing and pulling a pole saw seems like it would be real easy to unbalance the step ladder.

Glad you made it work but you will be better off finding a more stable way to do that work.

 

[SeanKroll]

So I once had a customer named Herman Williams. After I took down a crispy silver maple in his back yard, he got excited and motivated. Luckily, when he fell of the ladder, breaking his arm prevented him from breaking his head on the concrete driveway. I did a bid recently for a guy in a bathrobe, carrying his catheter bag, recovering from surgery after falling off a ladder while re-topping some ugly maple stubs. My friend, a marine that has survived who know what, in addition to a previously broken back, can't feel his feet after falling off a ladder. Probably can't hold his bladder and bowels. Seems like using a step-ladder in a truck bed, suspended on springs, plus a 20' pole saw is a great idea.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Generally, I find it safer cutting from above the desired branch to be removed, than below. Just sayin

 

[SkwerI]

Yup, that gravity stuff is a motherfucker.

 

[SeanKroll]

hahahahahaha

 

[pantheraba]

Yup, that gravity stuff is a motherfucker.

That's gotta be in the quote thread.

 

[flushcut]

Generally, I find it safer cutting from above the desired branch to be removed, than below. Just sayin

I can't remember who said it (Brian) maybe " the safest place to be when shit is falling is above the falling shit"