Anyone ever do this?

I think you may have come in a bit high on your back cut & either your top or bottom cut on your face may not have been true.
 
I don't know too many people who haven't hung one at one time or another. For that matter even the beavers do it on occasion.
 
I can appreciate that a person with 25 yrs. + experience is bound to push the ballot & try things. Hell, this biz relies on it !
But sorry, Butch... me-no-likey.
I see safety issues with it. Big time. And I'm not really getting the benefits of this type of perforated chunking ?
Sorry to offend. I don't think Reed meant to either, bro. Careful, there are "safety nazis" among us >>> whoops, I'm one of 'em !
 
I think you may have come in a bit high on your back cut & either your top or bottom cut on your face may not have been true.

High back cut and untrue cuts in the face which left holding wood that I didn't mean to leave...I agree...that was what I deduced, too.
 
High back cut and untrue cuts in the face which left holding wood that I didn't mean to leave...I agree...that was what I deduced, too.

Heck if I did perfect all the time I wouldn't be able to help learn ya:D
 
Anytime you're falling stubs that's bound to happen. Especially with a narrow face. Opening it wider can give the work a more room to tip before closing the face, and accordingly more momentum to break the hinge.

Open the face with two 45s and a gap at the hinge and the stub can tip and hit the ground before the face even closes. Often times with the hinge wood still intact.

Again, the tricky thing, or downfall, with falling short sections, stubs, and the like, is getting it to break square off the cut. So many times I've seen these things tip, close the face, stop momentarily, and then cock over to one corner or the other, and end up doing a job on something you worked all day to avoid.

It's the classic, "Last cut, and oops!"

The bottom line is, a stub is more reactive to minor differences in the amount of holding wood in the hinge.
 
Anytime you're falling stubs that's bound to happen. Especially with a narrow face. Opening it wider can give the work a more room to tip before closing the face, and accordingly more momentum to break the hinge.

Open the face with two 45s and a gap at the hinge and the stub can tip and hit the ground before the face even closes. Often times with the hinge wood still intact.

Again, the tricky thing, or downfall, with falling short sections, stubs, and the like, is getting it to break square off the cut. So many times I've seen these things tip, close the face, stop momentarily, and then cock over to one corner or the other, and end up doing a job on something you worked all day to avoid.

It's the classic, "Last cut, and oops!"

The bottom line is, a stub is more reactive to minor differences in the amount of holding wood in the hinge.

Every one of us who uses a saw needs to read this post through again and put the wisdom Jer has shared away in a safe place, not to be lost.
:thumbup:
 
Open the face with two 45s and a gap at the hinge and the stub can tip and hit the ground before the face even closes. Often times with the hinge wood still intact.
I do that quite often in an attempt to keep the snag attached to the stump.Works real well with pine & hackberry.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #72
I think if I woulda stepped up and pushed it harder, it woulda worked. The trick is keeping that hinge fat. I'll get it next time.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #74
I like using one (or more) limb to yank another (or more) other limbs out when roping. It always seems to get a comment.
 
On the right tree, I think you could bend the pieces all the way over to the ground
 
Back
Top