Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

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Yeah, I always have intent of doing it that way.... never seem to have the nerve to actually do it.....so far..... I have to remember to put some binos in the truck. Any videos of that being done?
 
I came up with a new way for me this summer. I choke the tree with a running bowline with my HH srt and grab the climb line and my flipline and flip them together. Makes for an inposition escape line if something goes wrong like a broken hand. Which I almost did this past summer. . For use spur climbing take downs.
 
The situation I usually run into is an evergreen close to a house or other items. The ground help is a majority of the time the HO and their friends. Really tight areas I will opt for rigging if the help is able and quick enough, speedline of some sort if I have a bit more room. In jobs where the help is hopeless or unreliable I'll go out on the branch, cut a smaller, manageable lengths and chuck it by hand. I have a small loopie that I'll tie to a close branch with a rigging biner and a nylon sling to tether the cut branches. And I need higher TIP for that. Not the rule nor an exception, but often enough it works out that way.
 
Cold Logging said:
I came up with a new way for me this summer. I choke the tree with a running bowline with my HH srt and grab the climb line and my flipline and flip them together. Makes for an inposition escape line if something goes wrong like a broken hand. Which I almost did this past summer. . For use spur climbing take downs.
Click to expand...

This has been SOP for me for a long time now. It is the simplest and fastest way to be tied in twice on basic spur, strip and chunk removals. The HH works great for this being that it is short and rugged enough to not need constant vigilance and because it is a hitch-based system, it holds its set length.
 
RajElectric said:
Yeah, I always have intent of doing it that way.... never seem to have the nerve to actually do it.....so far..... I have to remember to put some binos in the truck. Any videos of that being done?
Click to expand...

No videos but shooting over the tree works well when needed as long as you keep your head on what you are doing. I use it a lot and not just on evergreens. I have even used two trees to get the support I need. Getting a high tip is worth doing a little head scratching. It helps to have an APTA. :D
 
DMc said:
This has been SOP for me for a long time now. It is the simplest and fastest way to be tied in twice on basic spur, strip and chunk removals. The HH works great for this being that it is short and rugged enough to not need constant vigilance and because it is a hitch-based system, it holds its set length.
Click to expand...

Me, too. Glad you found it, CL (your name, again?).

I started on a GriGri back when, and was getting much more straight-forward conifer removal work back then. A very easy way about it. I was not in the habit of setting a high-TIP back then, just steel core flipline and choked rope. Means standing in spurs for hours, basically, except when climbing back down a few feet for climbline support, while waiting on ground crew.

Using a steel biner for termination makes an overhead advancement of the climbing line with a choke very easy. I'll sometimes add a 16 oz weight to advance it higher than I would be able to, otherwise, save a throwline. Way easier on the body in the long-term, and more able to throw limbs into a tight drop zone with both overhead support and flipline/ spurs positioning. Allows the climber to rotate around the tree more, and twist less at the spine, too, IME.
 
I just made a new tether from the cover from the Liros cord I use and some shrink tube,I have 10 metres of Liros and 10 metres of Vectran coming from Nod to try out.
 

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Getting a high tip is worth doing a little head scratching. It helps to have an APTA. :D[/QUOTE]

This but I only have a big shot:(
 
This......
DMc said:
This has been SOP for me for a long time now. It is the simplest and fastest way to be tied in twice on basic spur, strip and chunk removals. The HH works great for this being that it is short and rugged enough to not need constant vigilance and because it is a hitch-based system, it holds its set length.
Click to expand...

High Scale (sorry that I forgot your name..)
I like that cord... I don't know we have that state side. Is that the stuff Pete sent to Burnam?
 
DMc said:
On thick canopy evergreens I will often just shoot my line over the top of entire tree, pull it back up and drop the throw bag down the the center. I then pull up my climbing line and tie it off to a nearby tree or other object that I deem strong enough. Take care in testing to make sure the line is centered. This works for me and is fast. But be prepared if you do this to sooner or later take some small drops as the small top branches give out. That does not bother me but I'm guessing that some might not be thrilled at that prospect.
Click to expand...

This works for me, too...but the occasional small drop still always scares me some, no matter how much I know that it has to be small, knowing how I've got my ascent line arranged.

I look at it as a heart health measure...those sudden beat rate spikes must be good exercise for the old pumper, right? :)
 
I guess as long as you're close to the trunk, something will catch. How long will it take...that's another story.

If you drop one side down the trunk, you can pull the other, "bottom" end up and drop it down the trunk, most times, i'd think.
 
Burnham said:
....I look at it as a heart health measure...those sudden beat rate spikes must be good exercise for the old pumper, right? :)
Click to expand...

Haha! Yes, most certainly my friend, and if the feeble old mind had been drifting a bit, it will bring it right back to the moment at hand.
I also agree with having just one leg of your work line down the trunk if at all possible. I use base ties a lot and always look for ways to keep the other end out of the work area.
 
High Scale said:
I just made a new tether from the cover from the Liros cord I use and some shrink tube,I have 10 metres of Liros and 10 metres of Vectran coming from Nod to try out.
Click to expand...

Hi Carl. That looks neat and tight.
I don't use a tether any more as I found it easier and more effective to clip to the bridge ring.
Ask me in 3 months, I'll be back with the tether! Lol.
I don't suppose anyone on here knows who Nod is. Lol!
 
SouthSoundTree- said:
I guess as long as you're close to the trunk, something will catch. How long will it take...that's another story.

If you drop one side down the trunk, you can pull the other, "bottom" end up and drop it down the trunk, most times, i'd think.
Click to expand...

You're right and the drop is actually pretty slow because the branch is tearing and coming through Ivy etc.
Unless it's a snappy wood tree then you may exhale a small bottom burp!
 
:thumbup:Finally have ascension dialed ... Using my CMI handled w / bungee to HH , CMI ankle on right foot....the thing that put it all together was cleaning out downstairs here I found an old Gibbs the ski area gave me w / broken spring (nice gift)....installed a rubber band , a foot strap and cord to the left knee .... Now I can march right up the line nice and easy !!!! 8)
 
Even this old fart is getting the coordination down to ascend smoothly, I have to thank David and Nick for the lessons this past summer. Looking forward to actually using it in the spring.
 
SouthSoundTree- said:
Me, too. Glad you found it, CL (your name, again?).

I started on a GriGri back when, and was getting much more straight-forward conifer removal work back then. A very easy way about it. I was not in the habit of setting a high-TIP back then, just steel core flipline and choked rope. Means standing in spurs for hours, basically, except when climbing back down a few feet for climbline support, while waiting on ground crew.

Using a steel biner for termination makes an overhead advancement of the climbing line with a choke very easy. I'll sometimes add a 16 oz weight to advance it higher than I would be able to, otherwise, save a throwline. Way easier on the body in the long-term, and more able to throw limbs into a tight drop zone with both overhead support and flipline/ spurs positioning. Allows the climber to rotate around the tree more, and twist less at the spine, too, IME.
Click to expand...



Glen. :)

I have done it with my GriGri also. But for descents I'm totally sold on the HH. None of the herky jerky I get when descending with the Gri Gri. . And it is nice to be able to take a seat and get the weight off my feet when waiting for my groundies to get whatever done.
 
No rope walking with a grigri. Thumbs down.



The fixe fixed side plate pulley I bought won't fit to tend the HH unless I straighten the side plates.

DMc, which do you use? Did it require modification?
 
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