SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
Good its going to use. Gladly done. I don't know if I mentioned that earlier in the thread.
Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?
- Thread starter ClimbMIT
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ClimbMIT
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #527
Looks like your getting there. I couldn't tell how you were tending the HH? I have used LOTS and simple sling with a twist converted to chest harness. I Prefer the chest harness. Using one of the two options mentioned saves a ton of energy and time. I had the sound turned off because my wife is asleep next to me so forgive me if you stated this in your vid already.
ClimbMIT
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #528
Thanks for the tip Fiona! I was just thinking about trying Adam P's set up. He has the Pinto on bottom of the HH biner for slack tending which looks super smooth. Your version seems to be an easier set up. Just my opnion if I am following you correctly.
I'm just happy I stumbled on an easy fix for two issues!
No need for a twist-lock or a rated pulley as it's just there to improve the bend radius or keep that darn tail close enough. A bent gate is smaller than a climbing biner, but just comes up to the right position where the rope exits the bottom of the HH.
ALSO...when I take the basic and revolver off, the bent gate biner stops it from falling to the bottom of the rope, I can just drop the whole lot and it will sit at my bridge until I need it again in a short while.
Good tip for the down leg ' temporary reposition' too, thanks
No need for a twist-lock or a rated pulley as it's just there to improve the bend radius or keep that darn tail close enough. A bent gate is smaller than a climbing biner, but just comes up to the right position where the rope exits the bottom of the HH.
ALSO...when I take the basic and revolver off, the bent gate biner stops it from falling to the bottom of the rope, I can just drop the whole lot and it will sit at my bridge until I need it again in a short while.
Good tip for the down leg ' temporary reposition' too, thanks
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
So what does the bumper do?
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
A new SRT technique that I did today...
After throwing a line and pulling up my rope and down for a trunk-wrap base tie, I worked my way up (5) 12" maple trunks. I actually got a video (I think).
Got to my TIP/ PSP and worked it up a bit higher over a triple stub crotch to finish some other stuff.
When I get to the point of cutting my high TIP out, I usually call for the groundie to untie my base tie and pull up the rope to choke it.
Since I worked alone today, I couldn't do that...
I just pulled a bight of rope and tied a running-bowline-on-a-bight above me to choke the stem. I had enough slack, as I kept pulling up the rope tail periodically (Custy clean-up, POGO) to keep the tail from getting trapped (however, this still allows descent on SRT even if the tail is trapped). I still had the base-tie, now ineffective, a loop of slack rope up to the RBoaB, from which I hung, always ready with an emergency descent system, unlike a DdRT on a spar. No Ring and Ring FS or anything. Easy peasy.
HOpe that makes sense. I was out of camera battery by that point, but, another day.
After throwing a line and pulling up my rope and down for a trunk-wrap base tie, I worked my way up (5) 12" maple trunks. I actually got a video (I think).
Got to my TIP/ PSP and worked it up a bit higher over a triple stub crotch to finish some other stuff.
When I get to the point of cutting my high TIP out, I usually call for the groundie to untie my base tie and pull up the rope to choke it.
Since I worked alone today, I couldn't do that...
I just pulled a bight of rope and tied a running-bowline-on-a-bight above me to choke the stem. I had enough slack, as I kept pulling up the rope tail periodically (Custy clean-up, POGO) to keep the tail from getting trapped (however, this still allows descent on SRT even if the tail is trapped). I still had the base-tie, now ineffective, a loop of slack rope up to the RBoaB, from which I hung, always ready with an emergency descent system, unlike a DdRT on a spar. No Ring and Ring FS or anything. Easy peasy.
HOpe that makes sense. I was out of camera battery by that point, but, another day.
rumination
Migratory Hippie Arbolist
You mean you pulled slack through your HH and then used that slack to tie the RBoaB, or you used a bight of rope from below the HH to tie it? The former makes sense, but if it's the latter then I'm confused.
emr
Cheesehead Treehouser
So I just noticed something today on my Wrench. There is a little "groove" milled out from the inside of one of the cheek plates. I can only assume this recess allows the slick pin to slide back enough for larger diameter rope to pass through. Has anyone else seen this? I feel like an idiot because I have always pulled the pin all the way out, all the while wondering why they wouldnt make the Wrench so that you didnt have to pull that pin. Duh!!!!
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
My RW tether on the zk1 is the original tech cord, with a stick taped on with electrical, no cloth athletic tape. MAybE, I need a proper tether. Its been that way since soon after the beginning of the stiffy idea. Erik climbs on it. HH, please. SRT to DdRT without changeover is not to be beat. I was going to get a Uni, back when, but then the RW happened.
rumination
Migratory Hippie Arbolist
PSP=Primary Suspension Point.
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
PSP is sometimes used to indicate the high point in a non-isolated/ base tied system. You are tying into the base of the tree, but suspended through redirection points up above.
I cut the PSP out of my system, so i was down to a crotchless spar, so then changed to a choking system (no longer having an emergency lowering capacity). Alternatively, I could have use a life support sling and biner as a false crotch, leaving the base tie, or an adjustable Ring and ring FC. Most spars are easy chunk downs, IMO, so I'm not really that concerned about the ground lowering system at that point.
I cut the PSP out of my system, so i was down to a crotchless spar, so then changed to a choking system (no longer having an emergency lowering capacity). Alternatively, I could have use a life support sling and biner as a false crotch, leaving the base tie, or an adjustable Ring and ring FC. Most spars are easy chunk downs, IMO, so I'm not really that concerned about the ground lowering system at that point.
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
I gave my card reader adapter for my Micro SD camera card to A, so I'll have to wait until Saturday to get it.
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
Something I figured out on a big spreading maple removal...
When limbing on the way up, you flush off the crotches to keep from getting hang-ups as you work your way farther up the tree. You end up with a spar. Since the rope is not moving, and you cut an APPROPRIATE groove/ notch in the top of the spar, you can lower down, then flick your rope free, ready to chunk down the next log. I think that this was an old school DDRT technique that had danger of the moving rope climbng out of the notch.
I used this more to work from one high point on a topped leader into the adjacent leader and used the notches as redirects that were super easy to intentionally flick out.
I've just gotten some terrible video of this, but need to learn how to cut it down and splice it up.
Hope that comes through somewhat clear as mud.
When limbing on the way up, you flush off the crotches to keep from getting hang-ups as you work your way farther up the tree. You end up with a spar. Since the rope is not moving, and you cut an APPROPRIATE groove/ notch in the top of the spar, you can lower down, then flick your rope free, ready to chunk down the next log. I think that this was an old school DDRT technique that had danger of the moving rope climbng out of the notch.
I used this more to work from one high point on a topped leader into the adjacent leader and used the notches as redirects that were super easy to intentionally flick out.
I've just gotten some terrible video of this, but need to learn how to cut it down and splice it up.
Hope that comes through somewhat clear as mud.
emr
Cheesehead Treehouser
Sounds like a safer option than coming down on a nub or a super small branch. I hope I remember that trick.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
NHlocal
TreeHouser
After reading most of the srt threads I felt confident in my decision to purchase a HH, Haas and a CT quick step. I plan on fitting some leather/padded suspenders to my treemotion and fitting something to tend the HH from the sternum strap. Look forward to a test drive this weekend.
PCTREE
Treehouser
Good luck !! thats a lot of new gear at one time.
sbtree
TreeHouser
I got one of my younger greener climbers this set up ( I have it also) man he loves it! He's almost faster then me! Okay I have 15 years on him! lol Seriously.......very efficient and awesome system! The HH rocks Paul!
rumination
Migratory Hippie Arbolist
I'm not sure if anyone here cares about competition stuff, but just in case: the latest proposed revisions to the ITCC rulebook now include the use of SRTWP devices. I'm not sure if the RW will qualify due to the use of the wording "stand-alone device", but the HH should be good to go. Here's the pertinent bits:
"2.2.20 Lines used for work positioning when using DdRT(Doubled rope technique) shall be a
minimum of 11mm diameter and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 22kn.
Ropes used for ascending and SRT (single rope technique) work positioning shall be a
minimum of 10mm in diameter and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 22kn.
When using SRT for work positioning the contestant shall use a device that meets the
criteria indicated in 2.2.1 and is approved by the manufacturer for single rope use as a
stand-alone device. The device shall also be compatible for use with the line’s
diameter and construction. (2014)
2.2.21 All lines and components used in a basal anchor configuration must meet the criteria
of 2.2.1, and be compatible with one another (2014)"
"2.2.20 Lines used for work positioning when using DdRT(Doubled rope technique) shall be a
minimum of 11mm diameter and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 22kn.
Ropes used for ascending and SRT (single rope technique) work positioning shall be a
minimum of 10mm in diameter and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 22kn.
When using SRT for work positioning the contestant shall use a device that meets the
criteria indicated in 2.2.1 and is approved by the manufacturer for single rope use as a
stand-alone device. The device shall also be compatible for use with the line’s
diameter and construction. (2014)
2.2.21 All lines and components used in a basal anchor configuration must meet the criteria
of 2.2.1, and be compatible with one another (2014)"
emr
Cheesehead Treehouser
I'm definitely not a competitor, but it doesn't make sense to me that they allow smaller diameter rope for SRT than with DdRT. Why not just say any rope with 22kn break strength?
The wording does make it sound like the wrench will be excluded. What about the HH with a different friction cord than what comes with it? Kind of picky but then your essentially left with a RW situation.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
The wording does make it sound like the wrench will be excluded. What about the HH with a different friction cord than what comes with it? Kind of picky but then your essentially left with a RW situation.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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