Any interest in the new Stihl MS150

Early 201s were abominable, later ones seem to be as good as a 200, imo.

Mastermind, does modding a saw, like a 201 for example, shorten its lifespan at all, or should it be expected to last just as long but just cut better all the while?
 
cory said:
Early 201s were abominable, later ones seem to be as good as a 200, imo.

Mastermind, does modding a saw, like a 201 for example, shorten its lifespan at all, or should it be expected to last just as long but just cut better all the while?
Click to expand...

This has been hotly debated many times!
One camp says you only get so many revs out of a saw in it's lifetime, modding it increases revs and shortens life.
Another camp (the one I'm in) says getting the air in and out quicker helps cool the saw and the added heat dissipation makes it last longer.
Yet another camp says you don't get the heat dissipation, the jug and piston run hotter and the higher revs kill the saw earlier.
There really isn't any conclusive evidence to support any of these theories.
 
As far as I remember, If I mod the saw and run it hotter.. I run it richer with oil to off set it if I can stay reasonable about what it is capable of. Really, the idea that something can rev, spin, spool and cut as fast as 12-13000 RPM on one cylinder is amazing. Or even 10000 at peak power.. All those little parts performing like that over and over again....
Two strokes and Wankel's have always impressed me that for what little mods you can do to them and get gains... More in.. more out... more power...
 
I think Randy is offering Tree House Forum a great service here. It's every saw owners choice whether they need their saw modded or not and the MS201 is definitely a good candidate for this service.
Disgruntled MS200 owners who can no longer buy new 200s threaten to jump ship and turn to the Husqvarna T540XP , well has any one seen a 540 yet?:/:
The MS201 and MS150 are much better designed units then what the MS200 and MS192 ever were, they just need a little more horse power.
 
Personally, aside from the ergonomics, power, and general workings, I think a better designed saw for above ground work is one where they have reduced the bulk of the powerhead, not increased it. After reading this thread, if I was in the market for a MS201, I would be quite confused. If you make an equivalent to the MS200 that is larger, more guys will be shopping for smaller saws, maybe in addition to, or in place of. I am under the impression that the trend in new technology is reducing size.
 
sawinredneck said:
This has been hotly debated many times!
One camp says you only get so many revs out of a saw in it's lifetime, modding it increases revs and shortens life.
Another camp (the one I'm in) says getting the air in and out quicker helps cool the saw and the added heat dissipation makes it last longer.
Yet another camp says you don't get the heat dissipation, the jug and piston run hotter and the higher revs kill the saw earlier.
There really isn't any conclusive evidence to support any of these theories.
Click to expand...
Depends how far you go in the modification process. But either way if your cutting wood for a living the faster cutting times is going to make you more money paying for those modding costs over and over again.
Production logging on a piecework basis with a modded saw can pay for its self in a very short time. In the residential arborist trade a faster saw can get you one extra job done in a day, perhaps enough to pay for the whole saw with the mods included.
 
HolmenTree said:
I think Randy is offering Tree House Forum a great service here. It's every saw owners choice whether they need their saw modded or not and the MS201 is definitely a good candidate for this service.
Disgruntled MS200 owners who can no longer buy new 200s threaten to jump ship and turn to the Husqvarna T540XP , well has any one seen a 540 yet?:/:
The MS201 and MS150 are much better designed units then what the MS200 and MS192 ever were, they just need a little more horse power.
Click to expand...

I am convinced the 540 does not exist and it is all a cruel joke someone had started on the internet.
 
I'm of the opinion that proper maintenance, using quality oil, and mixing at 32:1 will more than offset the increase in stress on the bearings and crankshaft that modding creates.

I've seen my share of failed bearings, in both modded and stock engines. Most of those were in saws running on 50:1. Many people think that as long as the piston and cylinder aren't experiencing any scoring, that there is plenty of oil in the mix. I feel that 50:1 doesn't carry enough oil thru the crankcase to properly lube, and cool, the main and rod bearings......
 
I've gone to 50:1 on all my saws, included the very modded ones. It's been a few years and no problems. I did lose a p and c, but I think a circlip got tossed and after falling into the crankcase, got shot up through a transfer. That was what the autopsy came up with. Made quite a mess. One Husky with the whole nine yards and also a larger carb on it than stock, won't go up to the revs I want unless I run 50:1. After reading your post, I might go to 40:1. I used to run 35:1, thinking the added protection can't hurt.
 
woodworkingboy said:
Willard, what were you running before?
Click to expand...
50:1 Stihl Ultra now 40:1 Stihl Ultra. I find the erratic running high revving Husqvarna AutoTunes need it in hot weather conditions so now just use it all year round.
Used 40:1 with reg mix for 30 yrs with no problems, Stihl full synthetic in my opinion is a clean mix so the extra protection 40:1 is a good choice.
Over in Germany Stihl had to follow the "eco rules" with 50:1, bio veg bar oil, eco-matic bars etc.
 
Willard, by clean mix ,do you mean less additives like detergents? I ran my Macs @ 40:1 for many years and am not really comfortable with the Huskys @ 50:1, despite the assurances. I'm concerned about increasing additives in the mix, which may cause more harm than good however. I've been using husky xp and have no idea of it's composition, so remain wary. Thanks .......Bill
 
oldtimber said:
Willard, by clean mix ,do you mean less additives like detergents? I ran my Macs @ 40:1 for many years and am not really comfortable with the Huskys @ 50:1, despite the assurances. I'm concerned about increasing additives in the mix, which may cause more harm than good however. I've been using husky xp and have no idea of it's composition, so remain wary. Thanks .......Bill
Click to expand...
I was comparing. Full synthetic versus dino mix. Xp mix is half syn half dino
 
I use Belray H1R @ 32:1

I've been very happy with the way my engines look inside after a season of use.....
 
Are detergents bad for engines? The higher performance rated 2 cycle oils seem to have more detergents and smoke blocking additives.
 
woodworkingboy said:
Are detergents bad for engines? The higher performance rated 2 cycle oils seem to have more detergents and smoke blocking additives.
Click to expand...

I don't know Jay, the whole thing is starting to give me a nose bleed. Just looking for a simple solution to what should be a fairly simple problem. I have switched to non ethanol premium gas with husky xp at 50:1. Time will tell I guess.
 
woodworkingboy said:
Are detergents bad for engines? The higher performance rated 2 cycle oils seem to have more detergents and smoke blocking additives.
Click to expand...
As I said in another post detergents are good, using high detergent series 3 diesel engine oil right from a Stihl engineers mouth.
I'm no oil expert I just use what's worked for me over the years from Stihl.
Now what I understand Stihl Canada and Stihl USA mix is made by 2 different companies , Castrol was the Canadian choice but I'm not sure what the Canadian Stihl Ultra full synthetic is from seeing there is no Castrol trademark on the bottle or anyone else's for all that goes. I do understand the Ultra is bio degradable .
 
oldtimber said:
I don't know Jay, the whole thing is starting to give me a nose bleed. Just looking for a simple solution to what should be a fairly simple problem. I have switched to non ethanol premium gas with husky xp at 50:1. Time will tell I guess.
Click to expand...

Yeah oil threads make me feel like throwing up too.........but I try my best to make sure saws that I modify are not used @ 50:1......
 
MS150TC has been a great beginner's first climbing saw for me - powerful enough to do a fair bit of simple trimming, and light enough for me to keep control of the thing and not get into dangerous situations. I've since bought a MS251C for basic felling and bucking - they're a good pair for a homeowner with ambitions to tidy up the property. I'm loving the EasyStart function on both saws.
 
I didn't see that.


Easy2Start
Easy starting with less effort due to an additional spring between the crankshaft and the rope rotor. A smooth pull on the starter rope tensions the spring against the compression resistance of the engine. The jerks are not transmitted to the rope. The spring automatically transmits the stored energy to the crankshaft, causing it to turn and ensuring reliable starting of the engine. http://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Chain-Saws/Arborist-Chain-saws/22112-1575/MS-150-TC-E.aspx
 
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