Alternate sharpening angles

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Bermy

Acolyte of the short bar
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I'm tired of all different kinds of chain and am switching to only Stihl so I know they are all 30* top plate, and I have always thought the quality is just better overall.

So really, what if any difference would it make if I sharpened ALL my chains at 30* top plate...even those that say 25*...these are old chains and almost ready to be ditched. I know I was taught and passed on the dictat to follow manufacturers specs, but...

Call me lazy but I'm tired of squinting to see maufacturers stamps to check for filing angles...:|:
 
I think that variations in wood will account for what would be the exactly ideal angle to use at any given time with standard chains. Otherwise it is a bit of a compromise, but not enough to offer much negative. You can be lazy, Fiona, imo.
 
I am lazy and pretty much sharpen the round chisel and semi and LP on 30*
When the tooth gets smaller on some of the smaller chain, I will sharpen at 20*
Square chisel is always the same on the Silvey,
 
I'm tired of all different kinds of chain and am switching to only Stihl so I know they are all 30* top plate, and I have always thought the quality is just better overall.

So really, what if any difference would it make if I sharpened ALL my chains at 30* top plate...even those that say 25*...these are old chains and almost ready to be ditched. I know I was taught and passed on the dictat to follow manufacturers specs, but...

Call me lazy but I'm tired of squinting to see maufacturers stamps to check for filing angles...:|:
Your on the right track Fiona. 30 degree for all chains sounds good to me.
The manufacturers stipulate 35 on semi chisel and 30 on chisel with round file but they have to set a standard. A little more angle on the top plate for the semi versus chisel. Just 30 for everything is all you need.
 
Degree of top angle is not only important if tooth is sharp and in correct angles other wice.
In profile it should look more like ( than C. The most important is that top plate and corner is razor sharp. I mean literally razor sharp.
If you have 25-30-35 or other is not that important in most wood. This angle is more to do with how fiber in wood is than how fast it cuts and this is something worth testing out.

The stronger the corner is the better it holds edge.
 
On Stihl RS, (Full chisel) I definately noticed that 25 deg cuts better than 30 deg, but keeping that corner sharp like Magnus states is critical.
On Stihl RM, (Semi-chisel) I dont really see much difference at all between 25 and 30 deg
 
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  • #7
All my stihl chains have always been sharpened as per the instructions at 30* chisel and semi chisel...consistent angles, lengths, clean working corners and a good gullet.

I can now justify my lazy and rest my eyes, grab the file and go! :)
 
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  • #9
No, had a go with one once and didn't like it.
I only have short bars so it doesn't take long to hand file a few chains

I'll usually sharpen the first chain on the saw after work, take it off, clean the saw and put it back with a different chain, then sharpen that one (if it's not already been done) that way I always have at least two sharp chains per saw.
 
I like a grinder for truing up chains sometimes, not for the everyday sharpening. One way to get all the angles the same. Sometimes if you're sharpening other people's chains it is a big help, I mean after they have run them in the ground. :|:
 
I'll usually sharpen the first chain on the saw after work, take it off, clean the saw and put it back with a different chain, then sharpen that one (if it's not already been done) that way I always have at least two sharp chains per saw.

That's a good system, Fiona. I might have to copy that.
 
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  • #14
That's a good system, Fiona. I might have to copy that.

Oohh...I dunno, I made up the system, it's called X2-Filing and I'd have to be sure you knew exactly what you were doing otherwise the whole pattern could be compromised....;) :P 8)

Haha knock yourself out mate, happy to share!
 
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