N
Newfie
Guest
He does seem to have fidelity issues though. He's married to a good user but he's laying a good three strand.
A Good Rope for Pulling Over Trees
- Thread starter Old Monkey
- Start date
- Replies 32
- Views 8K
He does seem to have fidelity issues though. He's married to a good user but he's laying a good three strand.
NickfromWI
King of Splices
I just started a thread- can you post pics here: http://www.gypoclimber.com/showthread.php?t=13123
We'll get to the bottom of this...
love
nick
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
i've done as Brian. Also, stretch isn't necessarily a bad thing. For, as the tree starts to come forward, the tension in line will decrease. If no elasticity in line, the pull will lessen greatly/ unless pulling input force matches. But, with elasticity, the line can keep pulling itself , in addition to the speed of the input pull. This pull can be right at the right time to keep tree directed, and even force a stronger hinge if backcut can stop at that point (as opposed to backcut having to still proceed). Pulling someone out of a ditch with chain versus elastic line can be similar; as the vehicle comes forward, the elasticity can help keep on pulling at a critical time.
i still think up over the top and hitched at base is best, if for no other reason than being able to pull from higher more confident-ally, and flex the spar some, to imbue the same type of elastic keep pulling response from the wood, as we seek in the line. And also a heck of a lot easier to find hitch, unlace, and pull out with pulling force (that you haven't yet released).
But, also; the force at the bend will be greater at a cost of reduced/ less closer to perpendicular angle of pull. For, the there will be 2 legs of tension, but their median angle of pull will be less across the tree-except possibly on a forward leaner; where it can straighten out to more perpendicular to the spar. The rear leg of tension, can be sweated in, to increase it's tension; but further reduce the angle of pull across in trade, as the median angle of the tensions can now have more of the vertical/rear leg of direction on it... But, anyway; it all ways seemed to work out better for me.
i still think up over the top and hitched at base is best, if for no other reason than being able to pull from higher more confident-ally, and flex the spar some, to imbue the same type of elastic keep pulling response from the wood, as we seek in the line. And also a heck of a lot easier to find hitch, unlace, and pull out with pulling force (that you haven't yet released).
But, also; the force at the bend will be greater at a cost of reduced/ less closer to perpendicular angle of pull. For, the there will be 2 legs of tension, but their median angle of pull will be less across the tree-except possibly on a forward leaner; where it can straighten out to more perpendicular to the spar. The rear leg of tension, can be sweated in, to increase it's tension; but further reduce the angle of pull across in trade, as the median angle of the tensions can now have more of the vertical/rear leg of direction on it... But, anyway; it all ways seemed to work out better for me.
rumination
Migratory Hippie Arbolist
I use a Maasdam rope puller to pull trees over and I like using 3 strand rope with it. The elasticity of the rope seems to hold some dynamic energy that continues pulling for a moment as the tree starts to go over. If was going to be using the rope for other rigging purposes, though, I'd probably get a double braid.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I agree, the Maasdam rope puller is a great tool. It's light, and I like how you can pull the line through it up to tension, than crank to a higher force from there. Use it here with three strand also.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
We used three stand nylon exclusively for heavy cable pulls of armoured high voltage cable which weighed 10 pounds per foot .The longest pull I've made was nearly 2000 ft without a splice . The elasticity helped shock absorb the load and kept from ripping the rigging loose .
The last of that work I ever did was done with braided Plymouth in 3/4" which I might add also had elasticity but was just as strong or stronger than the 1" nylon 3 stand traditionaly used .Considerabley lighter too I might add .
The last of that work I ever did was done with braided Plymouth in 3/4" which I might add also had elasticity but was just as strong or stronger than the 1" nylon 3 stand traditionaly used .Considerabley lighter too I might add .
Burnham
Woods walker
Darin, it might also be possible to extend your block towards the pull tree from the anchor on a piece of your rigging rope...far enough to put the knot joining your 150 footers on the right side of the block.
I'm sure the job's done by now, but one thing noone's mentioned is the possibility of running your strongest rope from the top of the tree toward the anchor point. Tie a loop in the end of this rope and attach a block. Then run a lighter (if need be) rope from an anchor point through the block and over to the truck/GRCS/whatever for pulling. The block will give you 2:1 MA for your pull, and will allow the 1/2" to be used to pull the tree over. Just make sure the block is far enough away that the tree will not hit it when it falls. This method also allows some flexibility in pull angle, as you can pull off to one side and the block will float to the middle. (Might not have an anchor tree in the right direction, or might not be able to get the truck in exact proper angle.) I've done this before in driveways...anchor tree at six o'clock, truck at nine o'clock, cut tree toward seven or eight o'clock.
Similar threads
