Nutball
TreeHouser
A 201tcm is one I commonly use, and they often have starting, idle and accelerating issues. I'd rather have no autotune.
572
- Thread starter cory
- Start date
- Replies 32
- Views 2K
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Are you roll starting, leg locking, drop starting?
I have one husky that have had at my neighbor's shop forever, waiting to be tuned. I think it's a 576xp.
Good info I didn't realize I may need.
I really need to re-learn to tune. My temp and altitude don't change that much, especially the latter. Still, it is important.
Tuning and splicing are in my need-to-learn list.
I'm afraid of blowing up an engine, too lean.
I can't hear what 4 stroking sounds like on videos.
I have one husky that have had at my neighbor's shop forever, waiting to be tuned. I think it's a 576xp.
Good info I didn't realize I may need.
I really need to re-learn to tune. My temp and altitude don't change that much, especially the latter. Still, it is important.
Tuning and splicing are in my need-to-learn list.
I'm afraid of blowing up an engine, too lean.
I can't hear what 4 stroking sounds like on videos.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #28
Please define the above.
I think I'm drop starting with the choke and/or throttle locked.
Throw starting is an unlisted option above that I'm not going to do either.
Edit- leg locking must mean starting it on the ground. I do that once in awhile on the 394.
Last edited:
My problem too. I hear it after using awhile, but I'm not confident I could grab any saw, and promptly give it a proper tune. I start pretty rich, then back it off slowly over many sessions. I'd rather leave performance on the table than a bunch of scored metal.
I think leg locking is when you're standing up, and you kind of clamp the saw body between your legs while pulling it over. Not sure what you call the on the ground start. That's what I do for my first start of the bigger saws, then drop start afterward. The little saws I usually drop start from the get go, and always do it for the top handle.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
See if we can agree :
- Leg locking : stand up with the back handle jammed between your thighs, one hand on the front handle, steady arm.
- Ground start : kneeled on the ground, one foot passed through the back handle, one hand on the front handle, steady arm.
Both are the official ways.
But I almost never do that, I can't give enough speed at the starter rope.
- Drop start : one hand on the front handle, folded then extended arm to give more relative momentum (good grip on the front handle required). My favorite way. Variant with the bar's nose put on a stump/log for the big saw and long bar.
- Throw start : one hand on the back handle, folded arm at chest level. The other hand holds the starter rope and the saw's body, then pushes away violently the saw in a wide circular motion while the folded arm extends. The most momentum and can play with the throttle (for the hard to start), but the less control and a high risk to hit something. I never ever do that.
I don't see what the roll start is. Please, complete.
As for 4 strocking, the engine says "blo-blo-blo-blo" at high speed. I like thinking that it is like it makes bubbles !
- Leg locking : stand up with the back handle jammed between your thighs, one hand on the front handle, steady arm.
- Ground start : kneeled on the ground, one foot passed through the back handle, one hand on the front handle, steady arm.
Both are the official ways.
But I almost never do that, I can't give enough speed at the starter rope.
- Drop start : one hand on the front handle, folded then extended arm to give more relative momentum (good grip on the front handle required). My favorite way. Variant with the bar's nose put on a stump/log for the big saw and long bar.
- Throw start : one hand on the back handle, folded arm at chest level. The other hand holds the starter rope and the saw's body, then pushes away violently the saw in a wide circular motion while the folded arm extends. The most momentum and can play with the throttle (for the hard to start), but the less control and a high risk to hit something. I never ever do that.
I don't see what the roll start is. Please, complete.
As for 4 strocking, the engine says "blo-blo-blo-blo" at high speed. I like thinking that it is like it makes bubbles !
Last edited:
Magnus
TreeHouser
I start and pull saws a lot so for me with this bad body there is no choices other than under the knee.
Right leg in front of left. Steady and stabil even with long bars, I hold saw in handle with left hand. Put rear handle under right leg in knee and support starter side with left knee.
Pull out cord a tiny bit so paws engage and then arm pull up towards arm pit. No yanking in back, neck, shoulders.
One wrong twist and I am out for a couple day's so I try to be carefull..
Used to pull in a contraption I made were saw was fixed on a bench and a block with rope to handle in roof over that made it possible to stomp start. Very good in shop, for testing etc, but no room for it right now.
Right leg in front of left. Steady and stabil even with long bars, I hold saw in handle with left hand. Put rear handle under right leg in knee and support starter side with left knee.
Pull out cord a tiny bit so paws engage and then arm pull up towards arm pit. No yanking in back, neck, shoulders.
One wrong twist and I am out for a couple day's so I try to be carefull..
Used to pull in a contraption I made were saw was fixed on a bench and a block with rope to handle in roof over that made it possible to stomp start. Very good in shop, for testing etc, but no room for it right now.
