200T no one can fix local

If you want or need to run screens ,so be it .You don't want the rest of Cali to go up in smoke . If you increase the hole size with screen you could get the same effect as removing the screen if this would be permisable as per forestry dept specs . You can buy that screening through Mc Master -Carr . I don't think a 12 by 12 square is too much and it would make a bunch of screens .
 
I might give them a try sometime Steve. See what saw breaks next... If you have had good luck with them ..
I might be better off just shipping to Brian or such with gas the way it is and all.. LOL
 
I finally read this thread...a good progression on the repairs and explanations of what was going on.

Thanks, Brian, for taking the time to document what you did. I didn't understand it all 'cause I haven't dug deep into my saws yet...but the exposure was good and will give me some reference points when I eventually do.
 
Well I ran the saw a little bit today. There wasn't much work so I only ran about a half tank of gas through it but it ran well after some very minor carb adjustments (1/16th of a turn on the low end jet, then I leaned out the main jet a hair to bump the max RPM up to 14k). My buddy Dave picked it up to make a few cuts and commented that it ran strong. It's not even much louder than a stock saw since the pseudo screen is still covering the spark screen hole. I think you could run it as is for 5 years and never know the spark screen was cut.

I have 4 pine tree removals to do Monday so I'll run it one more day before boxing it up and sending it back home. Stephen, just send me whatever you think is fair for a couple hours tinkering and shipping fees. It's been fun getting to diagnose and fix it. :)
 
Aha B ,you are getting there ,I'll say that .:)

Before too long you may get the idea to take on your own mods .Go for it ,you might be pleasently surprised at what you can do if you put your mind to it .
 
I should send you my box-o-394xp. You could then get some experience splitting and installing bearings. I got the case back together, screwed up a seal, and now I think I really should have bought bearings.:roll: Maybe someday I'll look at it again, at least it didn't get introduced to the anvil.:/:
 
I've never split a case before, Dave. I think I tried to talk you out of doing that but I'm not sure. For myself, I'd rather slap a top end on and take my chances on the bottom end being ok. Seems like splitting the cases usually results in a box of spare parts, cheaper to just buy a new saw.
;)

Old Al seems to think splitting cases isn't a big deal, you might have better luck trying to sweet talk him. Perhaps you could bribe him with some pie or something. :lol:

Another option is to find a used donor saw with a still-assembled case and good bottom end, then rebuild it with your parts.
 
I don't know if the pie will work, won't I have to find and old Mac for him to tinker with?:lol: I've got to order the bearings and another (or two) seal from Bailey's, then I'll split it, again.:X They say all educations are expensive.:roll: Of course, I may revert to plan A, which is to put the dang thing together and see what happens.:evil: Are there any online service manuals that detail case splitting? Al's heat gun deal seemed to work pretty well, but the reassembly is a bit nerve-wracking.
 
Well Brian, I know you don't wan't to hear it, so Just STFU!!

You ain't nothing but an M@M, ya get past the hard shell, nuthin but soft candy inside!!

You hate to hear it, and hate even more to admit it, but you are good people.

(Yes, thats another F'ing compliment!)
 
Thanks Brian for getting things done on that saw and for putting all you did in the thread... I will be getting a check out to you asap ... should go out Mon.. I did not see a price for any parts also ... please let me know ...
This thread panned out nicely with your help and everyones insight and participation... Thanks :)
 
so shall i start a new thread or can i ask about oilers? one of my 200ts quit oiling yesterday, today i rinsed the oil tank with gas and blew the saw out good. still no oil. also thanks for the muffler pics and description brian, i pulled my first two off today and degummed them8)
 
I didn't have any outlay for parts, just a couple small pieces out of my spare parts box. I had about 2 hours total time diagnosing, cleaning and doing the muffler work. According to www.ups.com the shipping should be $23.50 to get this delivered to your door.

We could ask the forum members what they think a fair price would be.....
:/:
 
Willie, on the 200T oiler my first guess would be a plugged pickup or pump. This is due to the horrible new caps that cause lots of crud to fall in the tank every time you refill it. I'd spin off the clutch and remove the access covers, then pull the oiler pump and clean it out. you can pull out the pickup line from that side as well, to blow it out and make sure it's not plugged.
 
13mm socket and an air wrench. It's left hand thread so make sure you're spinning it clockwise to remove it. If you don't have an air wrench then you gotta pull the spark plug and use a piston stop to keep the crank from turning. If the saw is over a year old then you'll probably need a new sprocket while you have it off. :/:

Once the clutch and sprocket are off, take off the plastic dust covers with the three torx head screws. The oiler is right there held in place with 2 more torx screws. You'll need to blow the crud off everything in order to see it.
 
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