200T Issue

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Tucker943

Bamboo Plantation Owner
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Its starting to die out on me after running it for a bit. Im able burp the trigger to get it back up and screaming..........????? Not even 6 months old.
 
Most likely the carb ,which is typical .Could be seal failure from many causes .

Later on today or in the next couple of days I'm going to do a thread on what I think is the possible reasons behind seal failures on these things .Coincidently at this very moment I have an 020T partly reassembled on my bench from doing a case split .
 
After cleaning the air filter, the first place to start is the carb. If it runs fine at speed but dies at an idle then you want to adjust the low speed jet. This is not a warranty issue, this is a simple maintenance deal. It is common this time of year when the gasoline refineries switch from summer blends to winter blends, then again in the Spring when they switch back. An 8th turn on the L screw should be pretty close to getting it dialed in.
 
Also keep in mind a 200T is little thoroughbred of a saw .As B pointed out the difference between running just good or running great often is only just a partial turn on a carb jet screw .
 
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This particular 200T has been a piece of shit since I bought it. Been to the dealer twice already. Flywheel spun out of place once, and I cant remember what the other issue was. Never has been reliable since new. Ive had other 200T's that didnt battle me, but this one I hate. Im going to sell it I think and get a new Johnny.
 
You can find just about any part for those little pups except a piston and cylinder . Most of them die on the vine from a cooked top end and as of this time no one I know of makes an aftermarket P and C .

The case complete with a crank can be bought for 50 bucks on flea bay .A new bare bones case is over 200 from a dealer .

While they sell for around 600 from a dealer I'd venture a guess that one built up from new dealer parts would cost more than an Ms 880 .
 
Hey Tucker: What Johnsered are you talking about? I didn't know there was one that cld even keep pace with a messed up 200.

Brian: I'm constantly dizzied by your saw tech-knowledge.
 
My 020 caught on fire twice yesterday, kind of scary..... Once after filling it up, which I thought was some spilled gas hitting the hot muffler, and the second time after starting during mid use. Wtf? Turned out the plug wire was loose and some spark was escaping and igniting the fuel coming out with the exhaust. The first time it was tough to put out, I was ready to heave it before it blew up. Crazy
 
:lol: I caught a 2100 Husqvarna on fire on start up from my half azzed job of a new fuel line .What to do what to go ? Pizz on it --noooo .I drowned that SOB with a garden hose and couldn't get it started for a week .
 
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Johnny 2139.......supposedly a real ripper. Everyone Ive talked to that bought one says it walks right beside a 200T in the tree and isnt plagued by the headaches that Husky climbing saws are known for. I like 200T's, always have. BUT, Ive got to move away from Stihl saws entirely. I have garbage dealer support in my area. The Stihl dealers in my area are a real waste. My area isnt over run by tree companies. These dealers do 90% of their business with homeowners and casual firewood cutters. Saws sit forever, often come back with the same issue they went there with, and these guys dont stock much for parts for pro saws. Ive had falling outs with all the stihl dealers around me. Its not me either. I get along with every other place I do business with including several Husky dealers. One Stihl dealer tried to rip me off intentionally and I proved it, proved it to them as well. Now, the funny thing is, I grew up in the big suburbs of Philly and started out in this business down there. Those dealers cater to mostly tree rats, and lawn care pros. Those dealers are a joy to deal with. they know their customers are makin money on those saws and arent going to tolerate BS.

I think y'all get my drift. Im going to sell that saw and get a Johnny. The local Johnny dealer deals mostly with loggers that travel a ways to get there. Im going to roll the dice and see if I can get good dealer support there.
 
The local dealers no matter if it's automobiles ,lawn mowers ,major appliances or in this case chainsaws have a lot to do with a brands popularity in that practicular area .
 
Very understandable post, Chris. Za dealer that is genuinely interested in the success of someone using their equipment, goes a long way in serving themselves with that attitude.
 
Cory, you see 020s being sold at auctions here that haven't been much used. Fetch less than the 200s. I'm still not clear if there is a difference in power? The MS 200 that I have used doesn't seem to suggest it. I like the older carbs on the 020s.
 
I think just from the forums plus a few trimmers I know that the average life expectency of an 020 T or 200 is about 4-5 years in constant use . Most like I said die from a cooked top end. I have a theory on that which I'll attempt to show in another thread .That however would explain why not so many 020Ts' are found in operation these days .
 
Interesting that you would say that, Al, about the top ends. I picked up a 200 rear handle at the auction for my neighbor, used for his firewood. Not getting into how many times I have showed him how to use the choke and that you don't sharpen the rakers, when I hear him using it, from afar the top end seems like it is in a bit of pain. It isn't surprising to read that they burn up. Saws sound different from a distance.
 
This thread caught my eye because I have a MS200T giving us a hard time starting. (A different subject, but close enough. I hope). Then, after we use it for a period of time, set it down, then go to use it; it acts up and takes a very long time to start it. It's winter, but the symptoms resemble leaving it in the sun on a hot day causing vapor lock.

Anyone have any ideas?

History of the saw: I had a new carb put in it less than a year ago. I run it without the spark arrestor. I use 91 octane. I use the black bottled 2 cycle oil by Stihl. We changed the spark plug last week. We can't seem to dial in the adjusment on the carb either.
 
Johnny 2139.......supposedly a real ripper. Everyone Ive talked to that bought one says it walks right beside a 200T in the tree and isnt plagued by the headaches that Husky climbing saws are known for. I like 200T's, always have. BUT, Ive got to move away from Stihl saws entirely. I have garbage dealer support in my area. The Stihl dealers in my area are a real waste. My area isnt over run by tree companies. These dealers do 90% of their business with homeowners and casual firewood cutters. Saws sit forever, often come back with the same issue they went there with, and these guys dont stock much for parts for pro saws. Ive had falling outs with all the stihl dealers around me. Its not me either. I get along with every other place I do business with including several Husky dealers. One Stihl dealer tried to rip me off intentionally and I proved it, proved it to them as well. Now, the funny thing is, I grew up in the big suburbs of Philly and started out in this business down there. Those dealers cater to mostly tree rats, and lawn care pros. Those dealers are a joy to deal with. they know their customers are makin money on those saws and arent going to tolerate BS.

I think y'all get my drift. Im going to sell that saw and get a Johnny. The local Johnny dealer deals mostly with loggers that travel a ways to get there. Im going to roll the dice and see if I can get good dealer support there.

I'm not sure what problems the Husky's are plagued with, but I can assure any problems they have, the Johney's will have as well! They are the same saw, you can swap any part off the equivalent saw all day long! I'm not sure where people come up with these notions they are different things, but they aren't any more.
 
ignitions going out can give problems when the saw gets hot, a poor or inconsistent spark.....maybe no spark. When you say you set it down, do you mean it is cold again when you go to start it? Have you checked to see if you are getting a spark when it doesn't start?
 
This thread caught my eye because I have a MS200T giving us a hard time starting. (A different subject, but close enough. I hope). Then, after we use it for a period of time, set it down, then go to use it; it acts up and takes a very long time to start it. It's winter, but the symptoms resemble leaving it in the sun on a hot day causing vapor lock.

Anyone have any ideas?

History of the saw: I had a new carb put in it less than a year ago. I run it without the spark arrestor. I use 91 octane. I use the black bottled 2 cycle oil by Stihl. We changed the spark plug last week. We can't seem to dial in the adjusment on the carb either.

Irregular, hard to adjust, lost of power and acceleration sometimes...
Usually I would say air leak, I would test that first and after that, as it is a 200T: https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?14945-carb-repair-for-the-ms-200T
 
To reiterate what I've already said about starting issues .It's my opinion most of these on a hot saw are due to the seals leaking .

I still have not taken the time to run the two 200's I fiddled with a few weeks ago .I hope to in a couple days and will know more then .

Now if my half -fast fix worked here's what I did .Because of the excessive side slop on the bearings I drove the clutch side bearing in which reduced the slop to about nothing .I doubt it really fixes the problem long term but it will hold for a while .

Viton seals react differently then buna -n .They can swell with heat but shrink back down once the cool because they are a form of nylon .I suppose they used this type because they will take much more abrasive conditions plus they are compatable with forms of alcohol .

Now this is kind of uncharted territory because most people including myself have blamed 020/200 problem directly to the carb I'm just speculating the seals are the problem in a lot of cases .If what ever saw it may be has a bunch of side slop I'd about bet that's the problem .

I'm only guessing but I'd imagine a pair of bearings and seals would get the best part of a hundred bucks .If you did the work yourself that's what you'd have in it .If a dealer did it you'd have half the price of a new saw in it .
 
Regardless of the experts here saying it's an air leak, my experience with the 200T says that it's the carb again. I've never had a 200T with an air leak but every single time the carb goes wonky it acts exactly like an air leak. Try swapping the carb with another good running 200T to verify the diagnosis before spending a bunch of money on a new carb though.
 
If it is a saw with acc. pump in it like the one in Mark-Antoines thread I linked above it is likely the bad guy. They are really crappy...
A carb swap or pressure test will show for sure.

I changed a few ignitions on 200's this year. Not sure if that would help in this case.
 
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