020av carb removal help

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Yikes, if an engineer like you is having difficulty??!!
 
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Cory, Im lazy and thought some one could shine a light, doesn't look easy which is kind of weird for something as simple as removing a carb.

Yup old school 020, 80s era, has a hedge trimmer on it!!! Friend of mines dad owns it and let it sit with gas in it.... Now his Stihl dealer won't work on it because they say parts are unavailable..... Probably they took one look at it and like me thought WTF???
 
Ya sure, you're lazy.

I used ta love my 020. Got stolen, just like my 0200s:whine:
 
It seem to me I had to take the shrouding off to get to the carb .It took me 45 minutes to figure out how to de shell the damned thing .

I know in my pictures I've got some of changing a seal on an 020AV top handle but I'm not sure if there's any of de shrouding one .It certainly isn't as easy to work on as an 020T or 200T buy a long shot .

I've got to haul some wood in in a short so I'll take a peek at it .Maybe that will jog my memory .About an hour or so .
 
They are the same with exception of rear handle. Split the same way.
Just make sure you get all screws out including carb nuts. One screw is a bit hard to find by muffler if memory serves...

I think I spent a good 20 min first time I split it as I didn't find that darn screw by muffler...
 
I looked at it and brought back bad memorys but here ya go .

You have two slotted screws on the front of the starter housing and two carb nuts .There are three little screws that hold the fuel tank half to the starter housing. One is easy to get to on the bottom of the tank .One is through a long hole upper rear of the tank accessable on the clutch side .The worst is right near the muffler close to where the plug wire is connected with a plastic clip which must first be removed .I couldn't get that one broke loose about an hour ago .I think there's a total of 5 M4 by 12 slotted screws in all but I can't remember how many need to come out .

The shroud itself has a couple M5 by 18 slotted scews .You just got to keep taking screws out until comes off is about all I can say .There might only be two because two are used for the front of the starter housing and one for the front handle av mount on the starter housing .Total of 5 also
Of course somewhere in the process you have to take the handles off .

I'm tellin ya it's a bear to get off so you can get to the carb .

An 020 av is nearly as bad as wrenching a mini Mac or a Homelite super XL or Xl 2 .

I don't recall if I might have slipped the shrouding off in one piece with the starter housing or not .What I do rememeber is I had to walk away from the little SOB a couple times so I didn't loose my cool and take a hammer to it .
 
It is just the first time it is some thought to it...

No need to split gas tank.Tank and cylinder cover is one part. You sort of slide engine with crankcase out, leaving engine intact with carb mount and all to it and covers as one beside it.
 
Give it the old college try .If you get stumped my next day off is next Tuesday .If need be I'll peel down an 020AV and snap some pics .
 
The other guy's have pretty well got you covered but I can't resist because I have quite a few 020's:lol:

Remove bar and chain, naturally:lol: You have to remove both handles, the front one and the trigger housing to be able to undo the linkage from the handle to the carb. Front handle has three screws. Trigger housing has the rubber mounts. I usually just undo the smaller screws and leave the mounts in place and only loosen the screws in the handle. The trigger housing has to be turned to be able to undo the throttle linkage. Those things are a pain for a first time attempt.

Next, air filter cover and those two little 8mm nuts. Then two screws by the recoil. Then two screws on the top of the body and the one that is down in a recess well by the muffler. Also the spark wire may have a tiny screw to undo for the clamp that holds that in place if it is there. Best to undo the spark plug wire. The case should split. Make sure the fuel line stays in the tank if it comes out you will probaly have to replace it. That line goes to that nipple on the intake boot.

We are not done yet. 020 saws have a funky carb to intake manifold arrangement. Undo pulse line and two 8mm nuts going through the carb body from the intake boot.

That should put the carb in your hand for whatever needs to done to it.

I know much of this is pretty much self explainitory but I just couldn't resist putting my two cents in.:lol:
 
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  • #17
Pulled it apart today, not too bad really. I just couldn't believe you had to pull the motor out of the housing just to clean the carb...... German engineering. She runs good now..
 
It is not German engineering per say it is a design all brands use for smaller compact saws.
These are not bad, there are much worse...
 
Probabley two worse than an 020Av would be the mini Mac and Homelite XL2 and super Xl .

You have to remember the time period these things were made .High impact plastic as we know it today did not exist .Everything was made of die cast aluminum and needed to be rigidly mounted for strength and so the little saw didn't shake itself apart .

A few years back I did some comparrison testing between an 020AV Top handle and a Poulan s-25 .They weigh almost exactly the same and cut at almost the same speed .The Poulan being a reed engine might have a slight edge on the Stihl in the torque department but the Stihl being a true top handle was a little easier to operate in an awkard position such as might be encountered in the top of a tree .

Although both are relatively light weight they are heavier than say a Stihl 020/200T or Husqvarna 335/338 .
 
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