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Why don't you get a Dyneema rope for pulling, Daniel. I realize you won't be able to " store dynamic energy" in that, but then you won't have to worry about breaking it either, using a skid steer. I try not to use my bull ropes for pulling, unless it is very light pulls, because it makes it...

With trees that are dry in the top, it is a good idea to step well away before pulling. I know of 3 guys here that were hurt badly by falling branches in a situation like that. On a completely freestanding tree like yours, it is not so much of a risk.

Also a very beautiful, easy to work, wood. We are at the nortern limit of their tolerance here, so I rarely see one, and when I do, they are small. If I felled one like that one, I'd probably have some 50 woodturners from all over the country lined up, wallets in hand.

Sorry, Jay. I forgot I promised myself to ignore the antics of Murphy completely. I'll be sure to do that henceforth.

Bushido or not, recutting a face on a "How to fell trees like a true pro" video half a dozen times sure tarnish the event in my eyes. Daniel, it is not about whether I am better than you at making cuts, but that I don't make videos to show the world my prowess and then pull a total rookie...

Yesterday we were teasing our apprentice about using more than 2 cuts to make a face. Hope he never watches this video!

You mean those same oldtimers who turned purpleheart into railroad ties? Doubt it. Richard, my South African partner; told me that at one time they took up an abandoned railroad near his uncle's house in SA. His uncle told the railroad company that he'd take the ties up for them, if he could...

Must have been for promotional reasons, since there looked to be plenty of room to fall most if not all of it.

I thought you were supposed to use a clawhammer to wedge it over with, if you are a true professional arborist?

I usually do it the opposite way. Bore the hinge from the back as I do my back cut. Saves stepping in front of the tree, but only really works well with a shorter bar.

I mostly fell beech, and the whizzy works fine on those. But then, they are reasonably strong fibered trees. Trying it on a mature oak of the kind we have here would be ridicoulus.

Boring, absolutely not. It is always fun to see some other kind of trees than what I'm used to. Feels kinda perverted, though, to come home from a day in the woods and get off on watching someone else fall trees:lol: Excellent demo of a whizzy/sizwheel /whatever. You are right that it could...

Which is the way to go IMO! Only way I roll. I'd hate to be paid the same wage as the fat, lazy guy in the next strip.

That does look like fun, Cody. Also like a good way to kill a rookie. How are you paid, by the hour or the acre cleared?

I tell my aprentices that when they use a tree to hammer another one down with, don't wait around to see if it works, just get the hell out of Dodge. We do it a lot on hung up hardwoods, unless we have a skidder handy. In the more populated state forests around here, they have a rule about not...

You probably never thought you'd hear me say this, but a longer bar would have been a good thing. It would have prevented most of that fiber pullout.

Lets see if I can explain this: I start out by making a horizontal cut almost all the way through the stem. I keep an eye on the cut and only stop when it starts to close. Then I make a 45 degree upwards cut creating what is basically a hinge-less Humboldt. This makes the round sit forward a...

Making the "facecut" way deeper helps with the control part IMO.

I use it, but then I'm European, too. I do it a little different, but basically the same cut.

We are trying to produce good quality timber, screw a bunch of wildlife and water:lol: Actually the state forests are going that way here as well. They aim to keep producing timber as well, though, so aim for a happy medium between ironmental and timber thinking. In parts of some of the clear...