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Don't do low rakers, it creates problems. Excessive wear, more fuel, higher risk of damages on you and saw. There is no gain in it if you do a bit timed cuts or look in pile after a day's cutting. Look in can to and see what you did with your time equipment and try different things. Sharp full...

Setting up with tach can easily get a bit wrong. Not all saws in same model/version run as the spec's say and in some cases you set it less than it could perform. Setting by performance is the way to go for me. I set them to run right and perform as it is best. Difference in wood were it perform...

Trowing chain, kickback etc is usually not something that kills, but with long bars, bigger saws it can hurt you real bad and even kill you. Good reasons not to stand behind saw when bucking/cutting down. I try to keep right arm and shoulder lined up with rear handle on the larger saws so if...

There is different brands and qualety of this rapeseed oil. I tried most of them and the cheaper they are the better it works. Also tried the raw oil, not heated/clear. It worked but would get a bit sticky if it was run hot.

Not sure what Canola is... so looked it up. Yes, Canola is what I mean. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapeseed_oil Up with pump on max output and run as you stole it! Too little of this and they will run hot just as with any other oil. But with enough of it it will work just fine. Been running...

Bar oil is not just to lubricate. It needs to cool the bar/chain too. I would say the primary job for it is to absorb heat and as it fly off, take the heat with it. There is friction on all stuff that cut. Not just from spinning on the bar, but each cutter create heat to as well as friction off...

It is not a common problem with worn carb bodies. You see it sometimes on most carbs. I thought it was a specific brand/model issue at first, but it isn't.

A strong steady idle before clutch engage is best IMHO. As low as possible and still be strong and steady. Usually mean it is just under rpm were clutch engage.

That is not bad. We wait for newsaws 3-6 months here on most models in Stihl/Husqvarna.

What is 255? Husqvarnas production/assembly here is affected as parts they buy in are harder to get. Kids in China perhaps need a banana break. Political situation affects as well as pandemic ripples and experiences. Much easier before when they did stuff here. But this is how they want it...

It needs to wear evenly, rails, chains, sprocket/rims. If not you get eccessive wear and less runtime. That is why rotating chains on bar/rim shows its value. I tested this many times here. New Power match bar, 10 chains, new rim. Two custemers using them in same work, doing same thing with...

Sometimes the best is not the most cost efficient. Another thing to keep in mind is that hard rails beat the snot out of sidelink and cutters. Best is if they have about same hardness. For those that run saws a lot there is money in experimenting a bit and find a good combo. Rotating several...

Materials and heat is often the reason they use same material in muffler as cylinder, but it does not work as intended, I think. If gasket is ok, screws not over tightened, it works OK.. But I see your point. I think it is better with tin. Must be cheaper if nothing else.

Some years ago I talked to an engineer designing saws at Husqvarna about this and it is even cooling that is the larger problem on saws. Most heat is at one side of cylinder, by exoust and towards the top. This happen to be the place furhest from fan too most often and fins are used to not just...

Dirty fins do more harm then were ever you place muffler as they quickly reduce cooling by 25%. Really dirty, 50%. Had several saws here that caught fire due to oil and dust in fins... It is not uncommon saws are run a bit too hard and get a bit hot. More common than most know. So to cool them...

No, There is a fan that should create the air flow to cool fins and blow out there. So you have a flow of air and posetive air pressure around cylinder. Not much radiant heat unless you run it too hot and turn it off instead of cooling it. Heat from muffler does't affect as the air go thru fins...

For a person that knows how to get a chain better/sharper than it is out of the box/grinded and keep it sharp there is not much gain in testing a bunch of stuff other than learning and calming cureosity nerve. Testing is fun and educating. I find it amusing. I tried Hexagon files some years ago...

I can't say it is a good idea to shift fuels if its not absolutely needed. It creates unneeded risks and work/money. If saw run well on truefuel and has done so, I think it is a better idea to stick to that. Regardless of what fuel you have if it runs well don't change... If not, clean saw...

This is virus. It's not going away. Actually Covid-19 is one of the gentle ones. This is a practice run of what can come. We need to adapt and learn from his to better prevent others. If you vaccine or not there is a lot to learn. The focus is misplaced if you worry about vaccine. How we live...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Whitworth https://jrcengineering.com/technical-support/whitworth-and-other-british-threads/ I can't find anything on Wentworth threads. Most Brittish MC (and Swedish) used Whitworth up to early 60's. I wrenced a bit on old Nortons a long time ago...