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It has to do with flexibuilety, weight and costs. Most laminated bars are spot welded. The glued ones don't take much beating. When laminating they often use a lighter, material in center. They tried make holes in solid bars that was filled with plastic, epoxy or alumium, but as the bar move...

Roller guides and guides in general are often for a specific chain model. Raker can be checked and set easily by using file or ruler over three teeth and check rider in middle. New chains are pretty low when new. I rarely touch them until they are half or almost half filed. It is not needed...

Under 3mm tooth on shortest side is risky and not smart to run. Same if there is damages on drive link, tie strap, rivet, cutter. Chains are cheap compared to injury's so why risk it? Stretching chains is often from heat but can be from worn sprockets on saw and bar too.

Couple pics: Threaded spring on 372: Hex bolted on smaller saws, this one is 346:

Just ram a balled headed 4mm insex in there you will feel it. If you see tank thru hole the bottom of spring is gone... But your eye sight must be great! Edit! Looked again and realized I was thinking of the smaller saws. This spring is threaded. Twist spring, it threads out. I snap a pic...

I have bent some bars over the years. Mostly after felling. Pinched even more, shot many sprockets until I quit greasing... Stuff happen. Fixing bars is fun and often it saves a buck or two if it gets right. If not it is time wasted you could be making money on. Running bad bars can be costly in...

Laminated bars that are spot welded is easy to see. Not as easy with glued but a look in end of bar often show what it is. Replaceable tip is a good way to see although there are and have been laminated bars with replaceable tip. Weight is a good sign to tell too. Many is worried about weight...

Usually on laminated bars it is not worth the time, but solid or more expensive bars is often worth having a look at. Usually bar rails are short enough as it is... Closing rail often show it is too wide in bottom and chain(s) are worn on drivers side. Then tie straps alone is what hold it...

Why have it idling for 15 minutes? Is there something wrong with it? A pull in cord is better than idle. There are many aspects in this that argue for shutting off rather than Idle. Mechanically it is not a sound thing to do. If it is a bit too hot when you set it on idle, it will not cool. To...

There are no limit to filing. It can get better all the time.

If rpm slows down or stop it will get even hotter as the cooling stop. Best way to cool a saw id flip throttle up and down in rpm, fuel and air cool it very fast.

Bar oil is best IMO. If saw lubricate well the oil finds its way there. Haven't greased a clutch bearing in decades. But then the saws do oil well to... Oil is cheap compared to bearing problems, excessive wear on bar chain etc. And if you use a oil like rape seed oil its not doing you any harm...

What rpm is max power output in those specs you read? In the info I have the max power output is 9000rpm. Idle 2700... 11 000 in WOT without load sounds a bit low. Regardless of specs I try to set them so they run and perform its best.

Its all about timing, pressures, heat and flow in a engine. You need these things in right amount and if it runs hotter or colder than optimal it affects all things. It all act and affect together. Change one thing, all is affected. Setting saw after performance will show you that. Why make a...

That is were setting after performance excels! If it runs at its best, perform correct it is most times the best setting with very few exceptions not worth mentioning

You have fuel in liquid form after carburetor? If it is on start up after sitting it is some times a leaky main inlet valve. When you use a saw it is in all positions pretty fast before it reach operational temp and optimal time for setting. Setting saws after performance when they are warm...

I read those stickers and looked up every time, but noticed nothing worth mentioning... Just wait until you get a customer that reads the text on the bar and try to put it on as it reas with mount front and sprocket by saw. "This can't be right bar for my saw". Then you must calmly explain...

Well fixing non broken stuff is never a good idea. Changing fuels may seem like a bright idea, but it is very seldom just to flip cans, usually more is needed.

Buying Aspen save the customers a bunch of money and trouble. It has been checked here several times. Cost per saw and year will be a lot less. Especially if they don't run much. But be careful when shifting fuels try to avoid that and do it after internal cleaning or new saw. I clean all saws...

It should run correct no matter position except starter down, some saws don't do that well. Tipping front and it raise rpm usually indicate airleak in intake/cylinder if fuel line is right and correct.