Recent content by Magnus

If it is a smaller saw, shorter bar, and run in on bar/saw, there should not be a need to stretch it more than daily, if that. I see this alot on chains that run too hot. Mostly run a bit too long before sharpening, others have badly worn sprocket on saw or bar. Some has bad cooling/oils. Thd...

No, I doubt many like that. It is not that popular to get the help you need today. Not many want to know what options there is. Much better/easier to buy things first and not be disturbed in your thoughts. So I get to see many hard earned bucks get wasted on wrong product choice. As bonus I get...

Many tape, not sure if it is to help hold tap out or battery in... Doesn't seem to work anyway. You need to find out why. This is not very good to drop from a tree..

What model? Top loaded or side loaded?

Broken ring cause this if it breaks by a port and a bit stick out and get trapped. Why the ring broke? Heat? fuel? over reved?

That sounds as a bad idea to me. I would not do that. I also store saws in unheated area. If I were to cut in -10c it works fine, -20c (I don't cut but customers do) need a bit glycol in it, about 10%. That is what works down to -30c. Lower temp then that they should sit by fire and drink...

I looked a bit on videos, but its too much talk and often you see the level of experience pretty quick. Most is hung up on problem, not cause or solution. Focus should be more on a good repair than the grade of clean it is. Those that use water when cleaning saws in any way shape or form...

I am still waiting for those issues all is talking about with Canola/rapeseed oil. One day I might get to see it.. Manufacturers veggie oil I see it enough though... Stripped gears on electric saws is mostly lack of oil as it lubricate pump as well and some run way too long without oil... Seen...

If the spring is right and is in correct place it can strip the pump shafts gear If that is stuck or motionless. There is a difference. If not mounted correct it ride up on crank gear and will not pump. Seen that a couple times. Pretty common thing on consumer grade stuff... Springs are good as...

Was the gear stripped on pump or on crank or both? There are different threads in gears, even in same models and even several different in some models. If the pickup line is clogged the WD40 will not help much and it can pinch.

Sure. Different bar types have different limitation and property's regardless of brand and models. Its like choosing different types of loaders for a gravel pile move. Big pile, big loader is most often a good rule we hear a lot but is that enough?. Solid bars flex less and is great in some...

Groove, rail, drivelink, tiestrap all wear and how they wear is a tell of how the chain is set and maintained. Closing rail help nothing if wear is in grooves bottom. Some solid bars can be cut in groove, rail lowered and get like new, but most is not hardened deep enough today. Older bars is...

If you have new bearing, put it in, save the old as spare. A tip, If you change sprocket. Put a new bar on and rotate several chains on same sprocket/bar. 5 chains or more. You get less wear and more runtime of the stuff.

I meant most of my customers that run daily do. Most casual users I see here don't. I try less to convince as they do't have as much gain in it. As the nagging and promise of saved €$£ got the pro to try listen how to save €$£. Money is what they work to get, if it can easily be saved a couple...

I think that is something most do that use saw daily. I did anyway... Most that use saw daily and service here do as they rotate several chains/bar and flip bar at same time. Most have 5 or more chains per bar and rim.