The MS150 Has Arrived

In the cases were flywheel key is integrated I don't need to order/wait for a new flywheel or spend time making crotch for a loose one.
5min fix + Less cost of parts for customer. If it is a good, regular customer this is a freebie job..

Just clean, set it right and out they go.
 
What's the advantage to not replacing the key when you reassemble your customers saws?

Keys do wear from assembly and disassembly and tight fit is compromised. New key installed in crankshaft keyway and flywheel torqued down makes a snug fit.
Now on the subject of filing down flywheel keys to advance timing the void in fit is filled with LocTite, hopefully blue low strength LocTite .
 
Flywheel might come loose no matter nut torque. Don't forget any build up of dirt on the flywheel can throw it off balance putting stress on the key way fit.
 
Oil, dirt on surface before mounting is what usually make them not sit properly. You can tell on surface if it was clean or not.
If it is clean, properly tightened, Not too much, not to little it will not get loose. If it does get loose, key will go poff instantly.
If you can align it without key that is just as good as key have only this purpose, nothing more!

Too much tension will not let material work as intended and it can vibrate loose just as if it has too little tension.
Example.
Sometimes you have hot cranks and sort of ignore it and assemble. As it cools it retract and wheel come loose as it then has no proper tension.
 
I picked up another MS150
just a few pics of my simple muffler mod...

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stock muffler opening

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mod muffler


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tools i used

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I opened up the entire recessed area as per Mastermind's mod.

No doubt about it, opening up the muffler transforms the 150.
 
Well, dang...here I've been all slamming on this little pipsqueak since forever...but I have been wrong before, once or twice :).
 
Humility is an admirable trait B!!

Mine found one of its limits the other day, I was taking down a eucalyptus of some kind...it had thick spongy bark all the way to the top and dense wet timber. The branches were ok with the 150 but when it came time to block down the trunk the narrow little chain got a bit overwhelmed. So the 200 got a run for the first time in a long time!
 
Well, that's a relief to read, Fi :).

I do so love my well broken in 200T, shan't throw it over for any top handle 'til it dies beyond resurrection.

But when and if that day comes, I'll turn to my friends here to show me the light :D.
 
I just hate dragging the 200 through the trees, it's like having a concrete block attached to my derriere. Even when I clip it up high the bar hits my feet.
At least now I can do the vast percentage of most trees with the 150 which I hardly feel, then can swap for the 200 for the bigger stuff when needed and not be grumbling and fighting the 200 through the maze of limbs.
 
I know you're a slightly built climber, Fi...but really? If I recall correctly (which is wide open to dispute, as I well know :)), isn't the weight difference under 2 pounds?
 
Burnham, it is two different saws, for two different applications.
Apples and oranges, really.

I'd never use the 150 for major work, but on pruning and especially repollardings it has the 200 beat by a good lenght.

We recently repollarded a bunch of old linden.
I used the 150 and martin used the 200. I did 5 trees everytime he did 3.
I'm a faster climber than him, but in a pollarded linden there is really no climbing.
The "carving bar" is what makes the big difference, both in pruning and repollarding.
Being able to stick that little nose into tight places and making precise cuts is just priceless.
 
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