TEREX 730 CHIPPER
- Thread starter Bixler
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thattreeguy
TreeHouser
we are selling our new one, gonna find an older woodsman 12 inch instead
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Why is that?
thattreeguy
TreeHouser
damn thing clogs on palm, and wet or leafy material, not enough power to discharge material fully.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Incase you missed it, I'm the resident Terex dealer now...
There are a few things worth checking.
1: Right in front of the drum, on either side, there should be a small piece of angle iron with the legs touching the sides blocking small sticks from getting between the side of the drum and the drum housing. They've found that when that happens, the sticks get tangled up in the chute and cause blockages. As I understand it from the engineer, this wasn't in the original design, it was something they learned along the way and added. Some machines don't have it, but it's an easy add on.
2: Check the clearance of the edge of the knife to the "pinch point." To do this, tape a single penny on both ends and the center of a full width knife's edge, the surface that is ground to sharpen the knife. The knives need to be new/unsharpened. Looking at the passenger side of the chipper, the pinch point is at roughly 4 o'clock or so. Rotate the drum backwards and see if it knocks the pennies off. If you rotate it forwards, the anvil will/should knock them off prematurely. If the pennies don't touch the pinch point, the drum bearings need to be adjusted forward until the pennies get knocked off by the pinch point. This shouldn't have to be done very often, but it's worth checking. There was a run of machines that were "off" or something at the factory that needed to be readjusted. The pinch point keeps the chips in the pocket for better throwing.
3: When knives are sharpened, there needs to be a shim added under the knife to bring the edge of the knife back to the same place with regards to the pinch point. If you take 1/8" off each side of the knife, an 1/8" shim is needed.
There are a few things worth checking.
1: Right in front of the drum, on either side, there should be a small piece of angle iron with the legs touching the sides blocking small sticks from getting between the side of the drum and the drum housing. They've found that when that happens, the sticks get tangled up in the chute and cause blockages. As I understand it from the engineer, this wasn't in the original design, it was something they learned along the way and added. Some machines don't have it, but it's an easy add on.
2: Check the clearance of the edge of the knife to the "pinch point." To do this, tape a single penny on both ends and the center of a full width knife's edge, the surface that is ground to sharpen the knife. The knives need to be new/unsharpened. Looking at the passenger side of the chipper, the pinch point is at roughly 4 o'clock or so. Rotate the drum backwards and see if it knocks the pennies off. If you rotate it forwards, the anvil will/should knock them off prematurely. If the pennies don't touch the pinch point, the drum bearings need to be adjusted forward until the pennies get knocked off by the pinch point. This shouldn't have to be done very often, but it's worth checking. There was a run of machines that were "off" or something at the factory that needed to be readjusted. The pinch point keeps the chips in the pocket for better throwing.
3: When knives are sharpened, there needs to be a shim added under the knife to bring the edge of the knife back to the same place with regards to the pinch point. If you take 1/8" off each side of the knife, an 1/8" shim is needed.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Great post, Carl.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Thanks, I do what I can!
Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
That is why the next piece of equip. I buy I am going to get from Carl. Even if I wanted to buy somthing you don't sell I will ask to hire you as a consultant on the purchase.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Look forward to it, Merle!
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