Stihl Picco Chain...WTF?

I run 14" for the balance, the extra 2" makes you awlays need tension to keep the tip up
 
Tucker943 said:
I agree. Stig might roundhouse kick you though.
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Nope.

I run both in fact. Always bring two T200 to the job, one with a 12", and one with 16".

With the new stihl full chisel chain a 16" pulls fine, even in beech.

If I'm just knocking branches off conifers, I see no reason to drag a 16" bar around.

But that probably doesn't surprice anybody:lol:
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #32
I'm posting this more to help it sink into my skull the importance of not relying on what the dude at the store hands you.

love
nick

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Still gave you a safety chain, unless you like that sort of thing.

If the part number ends in a number, it's got the anti kickback crap.
 
The Stihl "micro picco " has rear tilted cutters I suppose it offers some kick back safety .

Baileys sell .043 narrow kerf under their brand name Woodland Pro (34 LP ) which is actually Carlton .It is just standard semi chisel cutters with no guards at all and is much faster than Stihl .Cheaper also ,a 12" 55 driver loop is around 10 bucks I think .
 
My Stihl dealer and I are buds and I have in my person all product books, service manuals and parts manuals for all my saws. Here it states that PMC3 chain is low kickback and my description of PMC is " picco micro comfort 3 chain is the successor of 3/8 PM1. It cuts faster and smoother and has a very high plunge cutting efficiency. PMC3 has an even lower kickback tendency than 3/8 PM1. "Also they make 12", 14" and 16" bars for this chain. I always used 14" but lately happen to have all three just by chance. If it were up to me I would just use the 14". All 63PMC3 is low kickback chain and is 3/8P .050".
 
swingdude said:
My Stihl dealer and I are buds and I have in my person all product books, service manuals and parts manuals for all my saws. Here it states that PMC3 chain is low kickback and my description of PMC is " picco micro comfort 3 chain is the successor of 3/8 PM1. It cuts faster and smoother and has a very high plunge cutting efficiency. PMC3 has an even lower kickback tendency than 3/8 PM1. "Also they make 12", 14" and 16" bars for this chain. I always used 14" but lately happen to have all three just by chance. If it were up to me I would just use the 14". All 63PMC3 is low kickback chain and is 3/8P .050".
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What are you saying here? Any Stihl chain ending in a number is a anti kickback chain. RSC3, PMC3, PM1 all anti kickback.

Get rid of the number and you have a real chain...RSC PMC (used to be PM but now they threw in the "comfort")

Here's the part number for a yellow labled, non-anti kickback chain, 14" bar on a 200T.
 

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Butch tell me as I am not a fan of safety chain either. When I go to Westport Mass next week I will source some there, because I only get stihl chain here.
 
So I had to delete that post, went and checked what chain I had on my older 200T and realized that I was running the 63PMC 50. These are chains that are made from a reel of chain that came from my buddy. So I have been using REAL chain as ya call it. The new saw with a 16" bar came with that low kickback chain. So that will go in the backup box of chains and I will make up some 55 link chains with the REAL chain. Glad I checked, the dealers must only carry the low kickback which is a shame. Still I learnt something here. IMG04123-20120626-2309.jpg IMG04124-20120626-2309.jpg IMG04125-20120626-2310.jpg
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #46
I've just used whatever comes on the saw when I bought it- which I presume is the anti kickback chain. To me, anti kickback sounds like a good thing. As you can tell, my saw knowledge is not as high as my rope/splicing knowledge!

So from what I've gleaned in this thread, is it safe to assume that the pro-kickback :) chains cut faster? Is it noticeable? I'm looking at this page on Stihl's website http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html and I see all the green ones are anti kickback. So if I wanted to give this pro-kickback chain a try, what would I actually be looking for?
 
Only in the last couple of years have I been interested in learning about my chains and saws. I used to just accept that the stihl dealer knew best and took his recommendations ( he has had that business for over 20 years ). However I am learning some subtle differences in chain type and the way they perform. I always keep well sharpened chains and never had problems doing my work. I like learning this stuff though.
 
I run the pico chain on my 200t w/ 14". My first top handle was a 192t and I'm still using that same bar. If there's a difference I don't feel like it's noticeable enough for me to pick up a new bar, chain, and sprocket. My buddy has the standard 3/8 on his and I don't think he notices much of a difference when we swap saws.

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned yet but a perceived "plus" of the smaller chain is that it takes a smaller kerf. So it's chugging through less wood than a larger toothed chain. Makes more sense on the 192. Either way if you have a bar that runs the chain give it a shot and see if you notice a difference.
 
One of my great fears is that I will be taken prisoner and forced to listen to chainsaw product sales brochures being read over and over until I talk.
 
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