Saw Storage - Decompression Button Question
- Thread starter BeaverMonkey
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If you set the brake, how do they differ?
True, but using correct body mechanics when starting is more important.
A correctly executed drop start, where the acceleration of the saw in the drop peaks just as the starter handle is pulled by an arm bent nearly 90 degrees put less strain on a ( Trained )body that sticking the saw between your legs and pulling the handle.
That is one hell of an awkward position to pull from.
The reason I wrote "trained" is that if the typical office drone tried to drop start a 90 cc saw, his arm would most likely fall off.
For a logger, used to starting felling saws doze of times a day, it is a different story.
SouthSoundTree-
TreeHouser
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So long as you do, and the brake holds it, nothing. Only drop start I got pissed off at was WOT, no chain brake engaged, right next to his chaps. Chaps don't prevent a cut, always. Chaps don't do squat for a boot.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Drop starts are good for a flooded saw, chain brake off.
I don't think you'd find many people wearing chaps in Europe.
If, in fact, any at all.
It is an American thing. We wear saw protective pants, and they WILL prevent a cut.
Personally I don't engage the brake.
I switch my grip so my right hand is on the top handle and left hand is n the starter handle.
Next year it'll be 40 years since I started falling in the woods and I haven't come near to niking myslelf once, while starting a saw
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
There's technique to starting a large saw that doesn't have a decamp valve. Just saying....
SouthSoundTree-
TreeHouser
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Stig,my point in that PPE is the LAST line of defense. It lessens the likelihood of injury, but doesn't eliminate it.
For a training demo with the conservation corps, I think that I strapped both the legs of chaps over a log and strapped them down. It might have only been one layer of certified-whatever, modern (10 years ago modern at, least) chaps. I got well enough into the wood with an MS440 to be very detrimental to a leg. I was shocked. I really think that it was both layers, but its been a long time.
Chaps will stop most cuts.
For a training demo with the conservation corps, I think that I strapped both the legs of chaps over a log and strapped them down. It might have only been one layer of certified-whatever, modern (10 years ago modern at, least) chaps. I got well enough into the wood with an MS440 to be very detrimental to a leg. I was shocked. I really think that it was both layers, but its been a long time.
Chaps will stop most cuts.
Magnus
TreeHouser
I have a pair of Oregon saw chaps that has approved protection. I use that on shows sometimes. Usually I use them when running saws outside shop.
If I cut firewood or fell I have pants, boots, helmet and gloves all with saw protection. I love those gloves, no more beat up left hand from branches anymore!
Cut in the pants two times and are very happy to have them. Boot saved my feet one time, helmet and gloves saved me more times than I can count.
If there is protection, why not use it? I know many would if they could in retrospect...
If I cut firewood or fell I have pants, boots, helmet and gloves all with saw protection. I love those gloves, no more beat up left hand from branches anymore!
Cut in the pants two times and are very happy to have them. Boot saved my feet one time, helmet and gloves saved me more times than I can count.
If there is protection, why not use it? I know many would if they could in retrospect...
Magnus
TreeHouser
I had a guy show me a left cheek that got chewed by a 372 as it threw bar up on a throw start.
One guy who say he cut his leg on a failed start without saw pants or turning chain.
I nicked a couple chain teeth, but never got hurt throw starting. I can say it would not work doing it now here even if I could.
When working on saws it is a impractical way to pull and test saws.
I am not as much macho as others here so I can start stuck saws, I need to fix them first...
One guy who say he cut his leg on a failed start without saw pants or turning chain.
I nicked a couple chain teeth, but never got hurt throw starting. I can say it would not work doing it now here even if I could.
When working on saws it is a impractical way to pull and test saws.
I am not as much macho as others here so I can start stuck saws, I need to fix them first...
Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
Magnus.....just because you've got the protection dosen't mean your compelled to use it.
Magnus
TreeHouser
That I see daily... Results of neglected protection....
If you have the protection, why not use it? I see no reason to take chances.
If you have the protection, why not use it? I see no reason to take chances.
Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
I meant you don't need to hit different gear with a chainsaw so often. (Dry humor.)
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Mick!
TreeHouser
If you're starting and fixing saws all day I can see why you wouldn't want to be drop starting.
Of the two guys that regularly work for me one just hasn't got the juju to start saws consistently. Drives me mad up the tree watching him. I usually shout "just give the bloody thing to Quint!" Who starts it almost immediately.
Normal saws don't go after you like this.
The demon living in that one must have had a bad day.
Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
Magnus, after checking basics to make sure you do no damage to saw, what would it be like to have an electric motor spin up the saws to a start for you at times? Maybe some sort of rubber friction cup or set of fingers could go against the flywheel?
Magnus
TreeHouser
Starting on flywheels will cause some damage to something very soon. Same with clutch side.
I made a electric starter mechanism for the 154/254 series saws bolted on as a starter with claws engaging correct etc, but it is not realistic as there is many different saws going thru here from all brands, models and ages.
I built a contraption to start saws in but when tinkering on saws that won't start. A spring loaded thing with a trigger. It isn't really working as it is too far from me. I need to use all senses and preferably be closer so you can do it. Feel, sight, sound and smell you need..
Most reason people don't start under knee is that they can't physically get it running that way. Not enough speed in string as they pull.
It is a technical thing more than muscle.
For me it is a special challenge as I can't bend over, get weight out from me, twist back or load it in any way uncontrolled.
Knee starting allow me to just move right arm, nothing more. The rest is still/static/steady or how to put it.
I pull with two fingers so if there is a backfire or something uncontrolled, handle is pulled thru hand so there isn't any uncontrolled jank's or pulling in arm that result in my back moving and me dropping like a sack of potatoes.. Not so fun to do that if the bloody thing is running.
I get the saws when the guy's who start them normally can't start them normally.
I made a electric starter mechanism for the 154/254 series saws bolted on as a starter with claws engaging correct etc, but it is not realistic as there is many different saws going thru here from all brands, models and ages.
I built a contraption to start saws in but when tinkering on saws that won't start. A spring loaded thing with a trigger. It isn't really working as it is too far from me. I need to use all senses and preferably be closer so you can do it. Feel, sight, sound and smell you need..
Most reason people don't start under knee is that they can't physically get it running that way. Not enough speed in string as they pull.
It is a technical thing more than muscle.
For me it is a special challenge as I can't bend over, get weight out from me, twist back or load it in any way uncontrolled.
Knee starting allow me to just move right arm, nothing more. The rest is still/static/steady or how to put it.
I pull with two fingers so if there is a backfire or something uncontrolled, handle is pulled thru hand so there isn't any uncontrolled jank's or pulling in arm that result in my back moving and me dropping like a sack of potatoes.. Not so fun to do that if the bloody thing is running.
I get the saws when the guy's who start them normally can't start them normally.
Magnus
TreeHouser
That is my job! I get the chainsaw demons to behave!
I got a big can of vrooom as well to pour in if it has run out.
The can of sparks is running low, need to get out one night and find more.
BeaverMonkey
TreeHouser
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #70
Ok, anther question for you guys: fuel stabilizer OK to put in gas before mixing 2-stroke oil in and using it in chainsaw?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Burnham
Woods walker
Sure.
Haha...good one Magnus!
If I don't get the drop start right on my 461...it will throw me down on the ground and stomp me, it's just waiting for the chance to show the little squirt on the trigger who's boss, so I put it on the ground and kneel on it...submit you cur!!!
Burnham
Woods walker
Me too, Fi. Though for me, since I carry a few more pounds than the former Bermuda goaltender, it's the 064 that waits with a glint in it's eye 
.
Truth be told though, the 044 has popped my fingers a time or two as well, damn it to hell (except when I'm praising it to the heavens)
.
.Truth be told though, the 044 has popped my fingers a time or two as well, damn it to hell (except when I'm praising it to the heavens)
.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
A D-handle will take some of the bite outta those mad dogs .I have several that wear MS 460 rescue saw handles and do quite nicely.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I think that generally speaking, you can overcome kick or what you call it, by first pulling the starter rope out until it engages the piston, then a powerful fast pull utilising as much rope as you can. Emphasis on powerful. My impression is that it overpowers the tendency to kick. Pulling somewhat weak or hesitatingly or too slow lets the saw have a chance to bite. It seems to work well on my over 100cc Stihl without a button. It sounds simple, but it took me awhile to learn that, showing it who is boss. Best have the saw on the ground anchored by your foot to succeed.
