Saw Storage - Decompression Button Question

I tend to use the decomp button on larger saws. Nearly did my finger in last summer when I started or tried to start an 88. Swollen and sore for a few days.

Just got my 660 back from being ported and rebuilt by a saw doc. Dual port muffler fitted and its cutting like a dream. Loads of compression though so the decomp makes it smoother.

Anyone know if starting a saw without decomp pressed would dmamge and newly rebuilt engine?
 
At first I didn't need the decomp on my 461, then it broke in. Being built like a bean pole might have a lot to do with it, but I always use the decomp if the saw has one.
I was taught a few years back not to drop start, so I don't, but I think its mostly driven by statistics which are driven by the masses at large who have no idea what they are doing. I can't see it being a problem with a chain brake in use. I also watched my friend walk around with a saw on high idle carrying it by the front handle - one handed. Bumping into anything with the nose of that bar could have been catastrophic. I told him that freaked me out and asked him to not do that anymore. My guess is behaviors similar to that brought about the "drop starting is dangerous" movement.

I like the inner saw demon explanation.
 
Would someone please tell me why drop starting is supposed to be dangerous?

I never quite got that.
You can get hurt using any of the techniques I guess. It is a dangerous tool... Not idiot proof.
I know of some that got nasty cuts from it in legs and face even from throw start.
Throw started before as long as I could. I had one or two experiences were I lost control of saw, but nothing that I got hurt from.

When starting under knee there is no surprises that can happen. No uncontrolled moves or weight/forces that strain anything and put me to bed for a couple weeks.
 
With a chain brake set it's pretty hard to 'lose control' drop starting. Honestly even without a brake set it's pretty hard to lose control.

As evidenced to me with decades of using it. Drop starting is quite safe if like most things with sawwork/treework, it is done properly. As in, don't lose control.
 
For those of us who are a little smaller than the general type here...I can drop start my 260, and very occasionally the 461 if it is nice and hot, but it's very borderline so I don't do it as a rule.
The problem is if I don't have enough momentum on the drop and it fires, the saw body comes to a sudden stop and whips around to the left...the stationary bar has hit me on the leg a few times.
Also being of a light build, that weight coming to a sudden stop is a bit hard on the wrists and shoulders.
So best practice is the leg lock, or for the big saw, decomp button and put it on the ground.
 
I was taught to drop start in the woods. I found it much easier to do when I first started as a teen. Using the weight and momentum of the power head instead of just a shoulder. Set the bar on a log and hold rear handle. That way you can trip the throttle lock as soon as it fires...
 
With a chain brake set it's pretty hard to 'lose control' drop starting. Honestly even without a brake set it's pretty hard to lose control.

As evidenced to me with decades of using it. Drop starting is quite safe if like most things with sawwork/treework, it is done properly. As in, don't lose control.

I can say that with the experience I have now I would not do it even if I could. I work on saws mostly..

Try throw starting a saw that is stuck or get stuck in start.
 
Potato tomato, or however the saying goes. I'll toss either! Just get that sucker cranked and get to cutting!
 
Because it's illegal in Sweden. Why is it illegal in Sweden? Because it's supposed to be dangerous. I believe that's called circular reasoning.

I'm going to use that one on my apprentices:lol:
 
Potato tomato, or however the saying goes. I'll toss either! Just get that sucker cranked and get to cutting!
Did you read what I wrote?

Here, try again:

I can say that with the experience I have now I would not do it even if I could. I work on saws mostly..

Try throw starting a saw that is stuck or get stuck in start.

When working on saws here it is sometimes a lot of saws to cold start, sometimes a lot of pulling before you find faults and get everything right.
Many don't turn over regardless of how you pull so throwing it out there in hope of starting will hurt you. If not that time it will eventually.

I have saws I know you can't throw start or anyone else for that matter. Not all are possible to do that.
 
Magnus I'm a saw user, not a saw fixer so I have no idea why you think what you do would apply to me?

Potato, putatoe.
Tomatoes, tumatoes.

Capiche?

Drop starting a saw is pretty much only an issue for people that think it is. For those that do it, it's a non-issue.

I jaywalk too, by determining its safe to do so and doing it in a safe manner.
 
I jaywalk too, by determining its safe to do so and doing it in a safe manner.

Thats the same premise most every dead jaywalker had before they were hit. Just sayin.
 
I was taught to drop start in the woods. I found it much easier to do when I first started as a teen. Using the weight and momentum of the power head instead of just a shoulder. Set the bar on a log and hold rear handle. That way you can trip the throttle lock as soon as it fires...

I think people mean different things by DROP START.

I call that a roll start, Willie. It rests on a log that can take being cut on.

A drop start holding the wrap handle is one thing.

A drop start squeezing the trigger, holding it off the ground by one hand on the pistol grip and the other on the starter cord, is another beast all together.
 
Thats the same premise most every dead jaywalker had before they were hit. Just sayin.

I don't gamble, but I'll play these odds. I'm pretty confident in my seeing, hearing, and ability to determine my own personal safety.

I wonder how many people have been killed while not jaywalking but in a crosswalk because they figured that made them 'safe' and so no need to determine it for themselves?
 
An important thing about decomp valves is that they wear out. I gather that you can burn up a saw (lean seizure, I believe) if your valve stays stuck part way open.

Anyone with better info on that?

For that reason, I've heard people put a solid bolt in the hold.




I figure that the most important starting mechanism to protect by using the decomp valve is your body (shoulder, elbow, wrist).
 
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