Chain runs at idle.

Not necessarily. I have seen more with sprockets than rim. 3/8 and 1/4 was not available here in rim at one point.

I changed some to Oregon drum and rim.
 
I keep thinking of "Go Ask Alice" from the 60's. That was such a great era for music. I just picked up a Jethro Tull and a Beach Boy CD dirt cheap from Rite Aid. I have a CD player in several vehicles and don't own but a few CDs. Guess I could get somebody to burn me some.
 
I had heard there's way to change an 020/200 to a rim but I've never seen it done .There is BTW a 7 tooth sprocket .You have to change the drive gear for the pump which usually comes in the kit .I have one in the garage for the super bee just haven't had a chance to change it out yet .
 
I've been running 020/200's for over 20 years doing carving and arb work and never found a rim sprocket conversion kit for that saw. I have 1/4", 3/8 Picco and .325 setups for them but only in spur sprocket drum.

Only my Husqvarna 338XPT was I able to find a rim sprocket conversion kit to fit. But only trouble is the rim and drum are small 7 spline bore which will not take the 7 spline mini bore 3/8 LoPro Picco rim which is now available for the MS241
....only standard 3/8 and .325 and a odd 1/4" rim that I found at Baileys fit the 338XPT. To run 3/8 LoPro on this saw the 6T factory spur drum is the only option.
 
Can't find it. Now that I think of it I am not sure what mfg the parts had I got.
I ask next time I call were they get them.

If you search there is hits on it in Gurgle..
 
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  • #64
Thanks to yous guys everything is working great....almost. I put a new carburator on it, and so now it idles, it accelerates awesomely, the chain stops when it idles thanks to the new clutch springs, I put a new sprocket on it. I just have one thing left. It doesn't shut off with the switch. I have taken it apart a half a dozen times and it looks like everything is OK inside the handle there. Is there another place where problems can occur in the circuit?
 
If it is a 200 Look under starter if wires are ok. I use zummer to see or ohm meter. Measure them end to end disconnected.
 
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  • #66
I took the starter off and low and behold, the wire connector had come off of the coil or whatever that black thing is. I squished the connector down with a pliers until it stuck on there pretty good and put it back on. Thanks guys. Saw is all better, now for the other 200t. It's been so long since I used it I can't remember what the problem was. It won't start now. I think it's a fuel issue. I dribbled a little gas in the carb and it fired a couple of times. Then nothing. I tried it again, but nothing this time.
 
Well... if you just put a new carb on it, it might be the fuel hose in the tank. Did you buy the pre CARB filter or just the replacement recommended on the carb?
 
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  • #68
This is a different 200T Stephen. It has spark, I took the chain side cover off and the cylinder is a different color than everything else so I think this is the one that i had rebuilt. The compression is real good, the carb is unknown as to it's status. I think it's old. Probably sat with gas in it. The hose from the tank looks to be fairly new. Do you pull that out with a pair of long needle nose? The screen in the muffler is clean so I don't think it has run very much since it was rebuilt.
 
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  • #71
I know. It is odd. I'll try it all again before I start rebuilding stuff.
 
You may not need a whole carb rebuild, just a new metering diaphragm if it is stiff. That's the one under the four screws with the pin in the middle. That solves what...70% of all chainsaw running problems? Pump diaphragms on the other side, can last longer, or almost indefinitely depending on the material.
 
A primed carb will fire and run for a few seconds the first try but after that the plug is wet it won't ignite the 2nd prime.
Proper atomization is needed and if the carb is not producing a balanced flow of fuel mist and air charge..... it will not run.

Diaphragms and crank seals are one diagnosis.
 
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  • #74
I put gas back in it and got it started. It had the usual thing that those saws get where it wants to stall at idle, and leans out when you try and accelerate.
 
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