Beginner Tree Climbing Tips

Bermy said:
You're welcome.
Yes, that property is practically a jungle, a VIP lives there and sight lines must be obscured. See the smile in the seond pic...that's when you know the ball is going where you want it to!
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Ayuh,
I know that smile, you're about to BULLSEYE your target! :thumbup:
I'm wearing that smile more often myself now that I'm getting more experience..... ;)
 
Not really a Beginner tip, but the Secret Weapon system is a good way to go if you DdRT.

Install a non-isolated line, a la SRT, add one hitched-on pulley and DdRT system, ascend SRT 1:1. Upon reaching your working height, Spike you line (stopper knot below hitch). Go to work.

You have an emergency lowering system, don't have to isolate your line, have super low friction, you don't have to mess with a friction saver install or retrieval, you have an ascent line for an aerial rescue.

I had to do a little work DdRT today and used it. Pulleys for DdRT can save a lot of strain.
 
Yes, and excellent idea, developed by someone for a Tree Climbing Comp, from what I hear. Now its the not so secret weapon.

The better one is to attach a micropulley/ Revolver up above you on SRT, with the standing end of the rope up from your HH/ RW before pulling the non-isolated line into place, giving you a 3:1 MA, and 1:1 progress. Rope walker is the business then.
 
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  • #234
I haven’t looked at this thread in a while though I have thought of it and intended to get back to it and read through it from start to finish again. “Beginner ...” was what I named it and there is some of that but, a vast amount of it could have just as easily fit into a thread called, “Fundamental...”, or “Foundational....” I want to go through it again because there is so much info. here about what I want to bring myself back to on a daily basis to be safe and effective.
 
Merle Nelson said:
I haven’t looked at this thread in a while though I have thought of it and intended to get back to it and read through it from start to finish again. “Beginner ...” was what I named it and there is some of that but, a vast amount of it could have just as easily fit into a thread called, “Fundamental...”, or “Foundational....” I want to go through it again because there is so much info. here about what I want to bring myself back to on a daily basis to be safe and effective.
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Well said Merle. Best way to learn something is to teach it. The things we do on a daily basis isn't to be taken lightly but we often can. So many factors to consider that can be life altering or even deadly. I now have tip for the thread.
 
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  • #237
“How u been climbmit. I sacked up and climbed the two pines in my yard limbed and topped. First one my knee's were knocking then i realized i was tied in twice. LOL. I have a question for everyone though through that experiance. How do u keep your balance up that high. Is there a landyard tech i can use. And also one last thing how the heck do u sharpen your spikes. i gaffed out once and chit my pants they don't seem very sharp out the box. There the climb right's.” (Brought this post of ch74 over from the HH/RW thread.)


Glad to see you back and that you have accomplished so many of your goals Charles. I know you were positioning yourself to go on and pursue other dreams/passions. Maybe now is a time to start looking at what would be the most advantageous and workable way to learn effective climbing and tree work.

I would highly recommend finding the best arborist that you would most like to learn from and striking a bargain where you trade work for learning. Perhaps that person is out of your area so they don’t feel like they are training their competition and perhaps it is only a day or two a month.

In answer to your specific post above I have several thoughts. After any joking you intended in your expression, I have always felt that my climbing needed to occur in the realm of calm confidence to be safe and effective for me. If that sounds right to you then any work you do, any tools you use, any techniques you employ must fall into line with that basic way of being. So you would always ask yourself what had me feel uncomfortable? And what do I need to do to remedy that?

Some of that you are probably getting right to. Flipline tricks - one wrap around the tree. Gaffing out happens, with one wrap around the tree I have only slid down a foot or two. Balance - put on tree gaffs (long) and climb a thin barked tree and or hardwood tree. Not only do you need to set them harder (adding shock loading to the knees when using) but, your boot is pivoting on a point further out from the tree. Put on a set of pole gaffs (short) and for any tree that will work well on, your boot is resting against the side of the tree rather than pivoting on a point. Gaff sharpening - out of the box they work for 99% of the people that buy them, what is it that you need to adjust in the way you climb might be a better place to look.

Keep it up Charles, and yes looking forward to your call.
 
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  • #238
P.S. I have often climbed the tops of trees that I thought, if climbed wrong, I could break out. In tops I would not let my body lean out or back as much as I would on bigger wood. I cinch my flipline up and am standing up close to (primarily putting downward weight on) a top that is only inches big.

A good test is to climb a fence post or a four inch dia. tree that is to be taken down. How can I balance on that? How can I climb small wood and not break it over? Of course in a tree top I would have my climb line tied off lower just in case all my grand thinking didn’t pan out.
 
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  • #239
Tip - When working a tree with a flipline and no wrap to prevent sliding down in the event of a rip out always remove even small stubs in your slide path. Learned that the hard way.
 
Merle Nelson said:
P.S. I have often climbed the tops of trees that I thought, if climbed wrong, I could break out. In tops I would not let my body lean out or back as much as I would on bigger wood. I cinch my flipline up and am standing up close to (primarily putting downward weight on) a top that is only inches big.

A good test is to climb a fence post or a four inch dia. tree that is to be taken down. How can I balance on that? How can I climb small wood and not break it over? Of course in a tree top I would have my climb line tied off lower just in case all my grand thinking didn’t pan out.
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Great tip Merle. :thumbup:
I agree 100%! I also keep "my weight" as close to the tree as practical so long as I can continue to work and not have my spurs tear out. Another thing that I make a VERY conscious effort at is to move smooooothly, so I don't shake or put any "extra" stress on the tree. And to go along with that I'll go the extra step and stay on the "uphill" side of the lean of the tree. :D

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I've done several trees with pole gaffs. . I found out I spurred out ALOT more than with tree gaffs. I think it had to do with my forefoot contacting the tree. And they were almost useless when I had to climb on the low side of the tree that had a bad crook in it. . I about debarked the crook of one silver poplar I did in Delta Junction. That was the last job I used pole gaffs on. I have had a lot greater success topping trees where they are less than 6" diameter. Haven't had one break off under me yet. And I've been on them at 3 1/2" diameter where I topped them.
 
If you tape the saw hook on your harness open, you can keep a hold on the handle and set it on your hook with one hand, then pick it back up with one hand by the handle. This is most useful for a top-handle saw.

I used to do a lot more setting the chain brake or shutting the saw off, tossing it into the air with my right hand, and grabbing it by the lanyard at the big ring (with my right hand), which I could then push onto my gated hook. I could also pick it up with one hand at the lanyard, but then had to swing it up to my left hand.
 
Ya, my old supervisor told me that was his trick for straightforward removals without climbing through brush. Saw stays on well. Be careful that if descending, you saw doesn't get caught up as you go down, then get pulled down onto your head. I like it a lot better. I've been doing it for about a year.
 
Well, did some climbing with climbmit this weekend at my dad's house. We removed a pine and a magnolia that were damaged by lightning. I don't no why but 10 ft from the branches on the pine i got real nervous. I did a few pines at my own house with little fear, still dont understand why i got that nervous. Guess i am going to just have to get use to spike's. Cudo's to Climbmit for the help and teaching me a lot about spike's.But nonetheless it was a awsome day and established how much more to myself that tree work is Fun, almost so much fun its worth how apparently dangerous it is. Thanks to Climbmit and Merle for all the help the past few weeks.
 
Do you use a fall arrest system for stripping limbs, either Ddrt above limbs above you, a double wrap lanyard, or SRT cinched up top or redirected to the base? The assurance that if you spur-out, you will not take the Bark Highway Express is very reassuring.

If you aren't ever nervous in your career, either you're not trying very hard, or you're a natural hardman, or maybe crazy.
 
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