Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

[Cold Logging]

First I've heard of that. Bit, OK.
There needs to be something there or the hh sits with its side facing me. Maybe I'll get a Rock swivel to put on my rope bridge.

 

[Cold Logging]

Maybe someone could post a pic of how they clip the hh steel biner to their saddle. If the orange spine is facing your chest there has to be something to turn 90° so it can be clipped in.

 

[ClimbMIT]

First I've heard of that. Bit, OK.
There needs to be something there or the hh sits with its side facing me. Maybe I'll get a Rock swivel to put on my rope bridge.

I just had my first climb on the HH on Monday and it is a great tool. I like being able to switch Srt to Drt and so on.You can get a DMM ring from Treestuff for your bridge for like $13 I think.

 

[Cold Logging]

Ya, I spose, I prefer having a pulley on my bridge. Maybe I'll see if Tree Stuff or WesSpur has the Rook in stock. If not I can order one from Sherril. .

I used the HH both drt and srt today. I do prefer drt as a general rule. But sometimes srt is the smart way to go. I just prefer having a block purchase on my fat ass.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

I picked up a Revolver from Simply Arbor. I've used it the other day for a 3:1 for returning from limbwalks and returning back up a maple after pruning different area. It was super sweet. A low friction 3:1 works smoothly!

 

[NHlocal]

I love that 3:1 with the Revolver, I use it with a Basic. It's a huge energy saver, for me anyway.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

groundies can help haul your butt back up with the Revolver and 3:1, which I figured out today. I was up and down and up and down and... felt like I climber 500' of rope, plus all the work. 6-7 hours straight in the tree. I used the groundie to tail the rope (pull slack) and at times got some assist. A redirect at the base with a pulley could allow them to get a bit of a hip wrap and walk back from the tree. If two groundies each pulled 60-70 pounds, I would have about 70 pounds to pull, plus the friction in the pulleys. So much easier and faster. Allowed us to finish late today, but in one day.

 

[Cold Logging]

I used my HHtoday without the 2 nd biner. . I did not like how it tended being sideways. So, I need to get a ring, or a Rook. But, I was also thinking about using a small SMC rigging plate on my rope bridge. Any reason that wouldn't work??

 

[NHlocal]

Finally found a picture, not a great one but you get the idea. This is what I am using right now.....
It's a DMM extra small rig plate.

 

[Cold Logging]

OK. Thanks NH. I've got Samson Arbor Master for a bridge on my Ligered Cougar. . . It looks like that's what you have there for your climb line.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

How is the compatibility of rigging plate and 'biner? The zigzag failures were attributed to leverage of a stuck 'biner on the swivel, IIRC. Can the biner get jammed in an odd way, like on the bottom or top of the gate? Does it always pull into alignment?

 

[bonner1040]

The strength of the zig zag isn't comparable to that rigging plate. I bent a zz by hand with a biner.
You couldn't bend that plate by hand if your life depended on it.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

how about a biner gate?

 

[DMc]

I am currently using this pulley on my bridge. It seems to work well and keeps the HH lined up right.

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=135&item=763


David

 

[Cold Logging]

The strength of the zig zag isn't comparable to that rigging plate. I bent a zz by hand with a biner.
You couldn't bend that plate by hand if your life depended on it.

The ones on my saddle are pretty skookum. I think they are 31 in. . It looks like NH s are pretty snug fitting.

 

[NHlocal]

How is the compatibility of rigging plate and 'biner? The zigzag failures were attributed to leverage of a stuck 'biner on the swivel, IIRC. Can the biner get jammed in an odd way, like on the bottom or top of the gate? Does it always pull into alignment?

how about a biner gate?

If I'm understanding what you're asking, the 'biner gate won't fit through the plate.....and again, I've had no problem whatsoever
with it getting "jammed up" in any way.

The ones on my saddle are pretty skookum. I think they are 31 in. . It looks like NH s are pretty snug fitting.

I sure ain't sayin' it won't happen, but I've been using the plate on my bridge for a couple months and have had zero problems with it.
Every time I pull slack from advancing up the tree it lines back up every time, so far.
And yes, it's a close fit for the 'biner in the plate but no problem.(I can't fit my Big Dan steel 'biner in the plate though :roll

 

[Cold Logging]

Well, I just ordered a couple small rings and a Nano swivel.
Rock Exotica . From WesSpur. And a CMI foot ascender. Gonna swing by a local outdoor store here in Valdez and pick up a Petzl basic today and splice up A knee ascender with some 3/8" Tenex. . I have a bunch of trees coming up that if I can go up srt. Maybe next week I'll get another riggin plate and try it.

 

[Appalachian]

I prefer a big ring on my bridge by far.

 

[Cold Logging]

I tried the Nano swivel but when working in the tree it allowed the HH to rotate and I was having to ( set) the hitch much of the time when I advanced it. I had slid a small SMC ring on the bridge when I put the Nano on so when I had my flipline around the tree I switched from the Swivel to get the ring and everything was right.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Possibly, part of the setting of the hitch is that the gap between the 'legs' of the hitch and the HH body is too large. Do you have it really snug? Less than 2" gap?

I moved down from 7 wraps to 6 wraps yesterday on new HTP and didn't close the gap enough, and it wasn't grabbing as predictably.

 

[Cold Logging]

I had my handled ascender with a biner in the bottom hole and tan the tail end up thru the biner for a 2-1 purchase for advaneing the hh. As I Limbed my way up the tree the hh rotated and when I would pull down to advance the hh the Bee line would rub on the part of the line I was pulling down on and wouldn't set. I switched to the ring and it set great every time I advanced it. I always use 7 wraps and after I stick the end thru the dog bone I twist the wraps snug. Pull it up pretty snug and tie the stopper knot and render all the slack out of it I can as I dress it
. I found 8 wraps is too many for smooth advancing.

 

[NHlocal]

Cold Logging,
I use 7 wraps on my HH. I've been "experimenting" with a Cooper's hitch. There are a few things I really like about it, but I'm finding
the "HH hitch" with 7 wraps seems to be a better performer overall.

I would be curious to see how you have your ascender setup to help advance. I use a Petzl Basic ascender for the same purpose and
I haven't had it interfere with the the hitch "yet".

Sounds like you're putting that HH to good use. Thanks for the updates on your progress.
I'll be using mine tomorrow.....

Work safe,
.....Randy

 

[Cold Logging]

I use the handled ascender like I would for a RADS. . . One or the only weaknesses of any friction hitch. From a life support perspective is it is sudeptable to something pushing down on it and it loosing its hold on the climbing line. Like a limb sliding down the rope. It has only happened to me once. And I had my flipline around the tree I was working. But it did kinda startle me. An ascender can protect the hitch from that happening.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

though and impact on a toothed ascender could be detrimental to your rope. With the rope walker systems, the toothed ascender is always below the hitch, providing some safety if a supporting limb snaps, causing a climber to drop, then shockload the rope.

I you set a pulley below your redirection point on the rope (partially a guess-tamating game), you can have a 3:1 system that you can grab by hand or with a handled ascender. Keep the tail of the rope clipped to yourself, or at least between the legs of your lanyard.

 

[NHlocal]