Which Weed Eater to Buy

  • Thread starter Thread starter Old Monkey
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 67
  • Views Views 7K
Like this, Steve. Same road, about 400 yards closer to the highway.
DSC04732.jpg



good buzz?

Na, wore ear plugs.:lol:
 
Carl, Save those skins. I'd buy them @ $15 per.

Darin, Did you buy a Ryobi yet? I say that in jest but one served me well for a few years. As for weed whacking a yard for clean-up.....my personal opinion is that if it isn't mowed or weeded sufficiently for effecient raking it shall not receive an efficient raking. I gather the big pieces and worry not about twiglets and leaves.
 
Too late now, but I'll keep that in mind. Whatchoo doing with them? Copperhead the only variety you're after?
 
My dad uses them to back bows. Mostly he uses rattlesnakes but with some woods Copperheads really pop. Bull snakes are good also. He buys from a friend in Arkansas but getting good pairs is always a challenge so the more available the better.
 
The only way I'm gonna kill a snake is if I run over it in the road with my truck. But the very next snake I kill I'll be sure and call you, Justin.
:lol:

How's he feel about gators? :evil:
 
Snakes are fascinating critters. When I ask people why they don't like them, they often say it's because they are long :?
 
Me too, except when they come in the house. I've killed two water moccasins in my garage. :X
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #63
I don't kill things unless I have to. I saw plenty or rattle snakes as a firefighter and never had to kill one. We did have hours of debate on whether or not you should bury the head after you kill them though.
 
I don't kill them if I don't have to. I prefer to relocate.....
We have customers that name the rattle snakes on their property.
Also... In weed eating line and heads, it really depends on your terrain, environment, and local flora. I remember guys in Hawaii saying that their grasses are the thickest you'll ever try to cut. Tough nasty stuff and I believe them. So different set ups for different parts of the world work better. Displacement is hard to argue though :D
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #65
The guy at the store I bought the weedeater from says I should store the string in a bucket of water to keep it supple. That seems like a pain to me.
 
The guy at the store I bought the weedeater from says I should store the string in a bucket of water to keep it supple. That seems like a pain to me.

Seems like a pain to me also. Nylon is quite stable. If it it isn't exposed to UV radiation it will stay supple very well. Soaking in water will add suppleness. It also makes it weaker. This is not a progressive deterioration-Nylon absorbs about 7% of its weight of water.
 
my personal opinion is that if it isn't mowed or weeded sufficiently for effecient raking it shall not receive an efficient raking. I gather the big pieces and worry not about twiglets and leaves.

Here is a quote from my bid forms. I don't always include it, but occasionally I do if I feel it is necessary:

"All job generated debris will be raked from planting areas. Hard surfaces will be swept, and blown clean".


I use the manual feed weed wacker heads. The tap-and-go just brake down too quickly.

Of all the whip line I have used including all the aftermarket stuff, the Stihl line seems to be the best.

Husky, and all the others 'outsource' their whip line while Stihl is the only one that makes it themselves.
The Stihl line seems to hold up better for me.

Whip line will usually break at the grommet in the whip head. You need to develop a sensitive hand when operating the clearing saw or weed wacker. A heavy hand will snap whip line in seconds while a good operator can go all day.

Berry Vines and woody stalks can be whipped to strip off the vegetative stuff, then go back with a blade or gas powered hedger to mulch the rest.

I usually work on mulching rather than the 'scorched earth' method of stripping everything and hauling it away.
 
Back
Top