What oil and mixture are you using and why?

I'm curious if there is something particular about saws that requires a different oil from motorcycles for best operation? A couple years ago I switched from Stihl dino oil to bike oil, now full synthetic. It is real good quality, i believe, and seems quite alright. Still, it isn't chainsaw oil, per say.
 
Jay, I've been using bike oil here in Hong Kong as well. No issues yet, but I don't put as many hours on my saws here.
 
Bike oils do give you a lot of diversity of selection, something to ponder at the home center store. I might be standing in that aisle for ten minutes, the same one that sells car perfumes. :|: No need to look up on the top shelf, those are the super cheap oils by unknown companies.
 
I get premium delivered to the farm 500 gallons at a time. The bright side is that it does not have ethanol in it yet according to the bulk dealer. So far I only use Stihl hp ultra, but don't mind the price as I do not use much in a year. I do mix it to the 50:1 Stihl recommends. I was told that adding more oil lowers the octane rating of gasoline as was advised against it.
I do have a question about my ProMac 850. I was told to run av-gas in it as it requires premium leaded gas. I can get 100 LL from the airport nearby when we fuel up the plane but it is a pain. I have also read that people do not recommend av-gas in chainsaws. Does anyone have one of these old leaded gas saws? Have you had to make modifications or do you just run unleaded? Thanks.
 
I had issues with running leaded av gas here. The lead built up in the cylinder and fouled plugs. ZIf they had unleaded av gas, I would try that. Or unleaded racing fuel.
 
I've been running the same MS440 on 87 Octane w/ Car Quest (gag me) general purpose 2 cycle oil for the last 8 years at 32-1. It's a company saw, and company oil, and company gas, so I don't really have a say. We've got about 25 saws kicking around, and as far as I know, none of them have ever had a oil related failure.

In my personal saws, I use Husky or Stihl pre-mix with just a little dash of Lucas UCL added to bring the mix to 40-1. My saws smell a lot better than the work saws.
 
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32:1 is a great idea.......I'd rather have a fouled plug than a scored piston any day.

So you would run 32:1 in a saw that calls for 50:1? Is it good insurance? I have always thought that 50:1 sounded a little thin but always did what the book recommended.
My new to me MS 460 will be arriving this week and would run more oil in it if more doesn't hurt.
 
Leon, lots of different opinions on it. If the higher octane fuel also has a greater amount of alcohol additive added, sometimes the case, it may not be a good thing, resulting in a hotter burn. Higher octane in itself is supposed to make for slower ignition and cooler temps, so recommended for higher compression engines. Generally for stock engines, using a fuel that is at least the minimum recommended octane rating for whatever you are putting it in, will likely give good to best results, with no need or real advantage to go higher. Some premium gas has low or no ethanol content, which can be a reason to want to use it. To come to conclusions about which might be better, I think that you really have to call the gas producer to get the low down on what additives are added per regular and premium, and which has more of what, since it varies. I have read where people supposedly in the know, say that higher octane gas can have additional additives besides alcohol that are not so good for two cycle. Lots of variables in the equation, it seems.
 
Thanks Jay. All of the fuel available at gas stations in Hong Kong is the same octane, 98RON, which is equivalent to about 93 octane in the USA. There are premium fuels which supposedly contain higher quality detergents and other additives, but the octane is all the same.
 
I read an article at Madsens that came out of their saw shop. It explained that adding extra oil will lower the octane rating of the premium gas recommended for pro saws. I would suppose that the theory is that more oil will keep everything lubricated better which makes good sense, however extra oil could lower octane rating, making an engine more susceptible to knock and pre-ignition.
Is it six of one, half dozen of the other?
 
I like my Klotz Original TechniPlate 100% Synthetic. Reason it was good enough for my nitro powered alky saws and mixes with methanol. So I called the Klotz tech and he said yep will stay mixed with Ethanol gas with no separation.
Thats all I needed to hear and have never had a problem. Never a sign of any deposits of any kind even at 32:1. Looks just like new when pulled back down with nice clear coating on parts and bearings.

Ditto. After it took me years to use up the huge stockpile I had of Mobil Racing 2T, I switched to Klotz--Super Techniplate, with some castor in it, it has the beano smell...Mix at about 38-1.......I know it's a good oil, and the price is right.
 
I switched to Klotz--Super Techniplate, with some castor in it,

Watch the Super and a eye on pistons. I use the Original only now. Had a issues with the super with 20% bean and a couple others did too.
 
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Leon, the reason we go for the higher octane in the states is because it has lower ethanol content, most times.
Now the way octane rating was explained to me-
The fuel molecules are somewhat round, the higher the octane rating, the more round they are, the lower the rating, the less round. The lower rating is more of a football shape which makes it easier to compress so it explodes easier causing pre-ignition and not getting the power you should from the combustion cycle. The more round it is, the harder it is to compress, thus you get more power from the combustion.
I've no idea how adding oil would hurt or help change that process, but I've also seen the carbon build up that Kevin mentioned in saws with to much oil.
 
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